Grooved Axle Shaft Repair Options

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Joined
Aug 8, 2014
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OK honestly I have pretty much researched all the options and only one really appeals to me.
Obviously new shafts work but I'm not spending that kinda money.
Then I have seen the sleeving approach but don't think I trust that fix long term.
So that leaves us with possibly pushing the seals in a bit further so it ride up out of the groove.
This option kind of sucks for me because I just bought some of those fancy seals that can only be inserted so far.
Anyone every try to put two seals in there?
Drivers axle is super groovy but neither are great after 280,000 semi neglected miles.
20260816_182208.webp

20260816_182213.webp

Curious what any one else has tried and what thier long term experiences might be.
 
I used speedi sleeves once. It worked fine immediately after, but I really didn't keep the vehicle long enough to give it a decent long term test. I would try them again though.
 
I have at least 10k miles on a set of axles with speedi sleeves and no leakage. This is currently my DD and the speedi sleeves are holding up fine. I've also used speedi sleeves in the past on FJ60 rear semi-float axles with good long term results.
 
Then I have seen the sleeving approach but don't think I trust that fix long term.

What makes you say sleeving is not a long term fix?

Speedi sleeve with proper prep and instal is a great solution. Pairs great with marlin crawler HD eco-seals, which I think you mean by "I just bought some of those fancy seals that can only be inserted so far".
 
Hmm well perhaps I did not look enough into the Speedi sleeve install enough but I kind of assumed that just the interferance fit or retaining compound that one might use would just not hold op long term in that environment.
I guess you know what happens when you assume.

Anyway I am kind of liking the idea having a new surface there so perhaps I'll give it a shot.
Anyone have a part number for the sleeve or do I actually need to measure my axle to get the correct one?

Honestly even if it didn't work long term its not that hard to get to it again to try a plan B or C.
I also picked up some new bushings for the spindles just to make sure those we not worn out and causing any excessive slop that might have led to the excessive wear.
The CV joint on that axle was pretty wrecked as well.
I already have replacements for those.

I'll get'r sorted
 
Post #166 for speedi sleeve number and photos of installation

 
Another option is to find couple of good used axle shafts (at least the worst side), or spring for new OEM or Aftermarket shafts. For OEM check Amayama, Partsouq, Japan4x4 (Dave Stedman, English), NenGun, ----

FWIW

NenGun:

1787087886661.webp


Partsouq:

1787087712059.webp
 
well dang I thought new OEM axles would be like $1000 for the pair.
Meh my speedi sleeves will be here friday
 
I've never heard of this on an axle didn't even know it was a thing.
Ya its an option if your diy for repairs. Probably not worth having a business do it as the labor would take away the cost savings over new axles. I thought installation was difficult personally.
 
Seems like a million ways to easily make a tool that will do the trick.
Of course I have never installed them so what do I know.
Heck I might even see what the ol' 3D printer can whip up.
With some pipe, the 3D printer and the install tool that comes with the sleeve I should be able to come up with something that works
 
I used a press and the installation went very smoothly. You also want to pay attention to the sleeve orientation when installing because on one end you have to remove the temporary lip. Install so that the un-lipped end of the speedi sleeve will be the one to slide through the seal, removal of the lip could potentially leave a sharp edge that could tear a new seal (maybe or maybe not, just seems like something to avoid).
 
OK honestly I have pretty much researched all the options and only one really appeals to me.
Obviously new shafts work but I'm not spending that kinda money.
Then I have seen the sleeving approach but don't think I trust that fix long term.
So that leaves us with possibly pushing the seals in a bit further so it ride up out of the groove.
This option kind of sucks for me because I just bought some of those fancy seals that can only be inserted so far.
Anyone every try to put two seals in there?
Drivers axle is super groovy but neither are great after 280,000 semi neglected miles.
View attachment 4196241
View attachment 4196242
Curious what any one else has tried and what thier long term experiences might be.

Wow, I haven't seen grooves like that before. You have a couple options; 1 is to install a speedi-sleeve but first you have to fill those grooves with JB Weld of liquid steel, something that dries hard, and then smooth the material to the surface of the axle before installing, if you don't, the new seal will form the sleeve into the groove and you don't want that. 2 is to take the axle to a machine shop and have the groove welded and machined down. Shops that do crankshaft grinding are a possibility, they can weld to a Rockwell 60 rating giving you a nice hard surface for the new seal. Most places it's a $50+ per journal so it's not too expensive.
 
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Wow, I haven't seen grooves like that before. You have a couple options; 1 is to install a speedi-sleeve but first you have to fill those grooves with JB Weld of liquid steel, something that dries hard, and then smooth the material to the surface of the axle before installing, if you don't, the new seal will form the sleeve into the groove and you don't want that.
Yeah I think the CV has been pretty wrecked for a long time now and that may have also worn the bushing that is in the spindle which might have led to excessive movement on the axle shaft.
Hard to say whether the bushing or the CV failed first but I am replacing them both so it should be tip top.
Didn't really think about filling the groove before the sleeve goes on but that's a simple enough thing that I will likely do just to be on the safe side.
 
These sleeves are pretty thin and spring tension from a seal can push the sleeve into the groove deforming it and you'll be back to square one. If using JB Weld lay a piece of tape under the axle and as you work around the axle pull the tape to hold the JB Weld into place, but not to hard to form a groove, otherwise, the JB Weld will slowly work off the axle. You may have to do it a couple times so you don't get any low areas in the JB Weld, you want a nice fill all around the axle.
 
Well I filled my groovy axles and go the printer whipping up an install tool
I filled booth axles but only got pics of the worst one.
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20260824_214303.webp


On another note something was brought up in another thread that made me realize what likely caused the bad grooves.
I remembered when I got the truck I jacked it up to out my new tires and wheels on it and once the front wheels were in the air the tires flopped because the front wheel bearings were so loose.
I tightend them up and didn't think much of it because I knew I was going to be rebuilding the whole axle shortly.
Who knows how long they were like that but thats probably what wrecked the axles.
 
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