Gotta Few More Mods Underway...

LC_Hamma

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After 3 TLCA events, I determined a few changes HAD to be made:
1 - shorten rear lower links & raise upward to the frame cuz they hang WAY too low.
2 - revise skid plate to be 2 piece for easier access to tcase & front driveline.
3 - design heavy duty frame panhard mount since I broke it clean off on the way to Hal Johns trail.
4 - new hydroboost brake unit from Vanco, bored for hydro steering.
5 - new hydro steering kit from PSC.
6 - TG's Six Shooter knuckles.

I started on the frame links first. I cut off the old mounts from the rear of the skid plate & still used the fronts mounted to the front skid crossbar. First pic is the old setup when I first built it. I furred out the frame mounts some & ground to the correct slope to line up with the rear axle lower links. Next, I'll show how I braced it to the frame.........:p
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Chuck you make me feel bad that I never work on my truck because you are always improving yours.

Keep up the good work and keep us updated. When do you think this round of improvements will be completed so you can wheel again?
 

LC_Hamma

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You don't need to work on yours' cuz it never breaks :)
After I finish this part of the refabbing & my panhard mount, I'll need to start ordering my parts for the hydro stuff. In the meantime, I'll be reading up on different hydro setups so I can set mine up *right. I may have a reputable shop review my work so I don't end up thinkin it's correctly done, go to an event & :nuke: somethin doesn't work & I become the recipient for one of these:
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LC_Hamma

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Frame Prep & Rear Crossbar:

After allota thought, this was the *best way to mount the rear skid crossbar. I wanted to keep the attachment point inside the frame & up as high as possible. At the ends of the 1 3/4" 1/4" wall DOM tube I bent & formed some 3/4" square solid stock to fit inside an anti-shear bracket. That piece extends into the tube 3" & will be plug welded @ 4 different locations. I felt I could get a more structurally sound connection using the square pieces to handle the shear factors rather than trying to tie the round tube to the frame. There will be a small bracket, angled to support the bottom of the skid & will be bolted to the frame w/ 2 - 7/16" grade 8 bolts. It's still roughly done........
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LC_Hamma

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Rear Skid Crossbar

Ya think I coulda made this connection a little easier :doh: Allotta fitting went into this but I finished it up! I won't be gaining any skid plate height at the tcase, but I will be clearing up the frame area for better clearance:
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LC_Hamma

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Front Crossbar Connection:

I'm using the same basic skid tie in design as I did on the frame sides. There'll be 3 of these bars connecting to the rear crossbar. I'll fab some side mounts to each of the anti-shear brackets for *easy removal next. Not sure if I want to reuse the old 1/4" wall diamond plate or go with some 3/8" plate for the skins........
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LC_Hamma

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Why the T-G knuckles? Run ARPs with the stock setup cheaper and just as strong.

Those Six Shooter knuckles are actually my LAST choice. I considered 2 options - either make my own w/ a KEYED arm to the knuckle or refab the outers w/ D60 stuff. Since time & $$$ are of the essence & the TG one's are a bolt on, the choice was easy. I have the '76-'78 SMALL pattern knuckles right now on a *heavy LC w/ 38's. Compounding hydro assist w/ some sort of hysteer arm, I want a sound piece of mind. I've had troubles w/ knuckles before & I ain't gonna let the possibility of 4 studs shearing ruin my weekend again....... :)
 
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Gotcha.. I can get a set of mini axle knuckles if you need them. Have you looked at D44 9/16" Studs instead of six shooters?

Were you running stock studs before when you broke? I have 4k rig with 39.5 Iroks w/ heavy H1s with hydro assist pushing on my ARP 4 studs.

Here is the difference:
d44_stud_1.JPG



Here is the thread about it.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394089&highlight=D44
 
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LC_Hamma

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Gotcha.. I can get a set of mini axle knuckles if you need them. Have you looked at D44 3/8" Studs instead of six shooters?

Were you running stock studs before when you broke? I have 4k rig with 39.5 Iroks w/ heavy H1s with hydro assist pushing on my ARP 4 studs.

Here is the difference:
d44_stud_1.JPG



Here is the thread about it.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394089&highlight=D44

Thanks for the info :cheers: I was running the stock stuff & sheared all 4 w/ 36's. I have since retapped them for 12MM fine thread grade 10.9 & haven't had any problems yet. There's hardly any mat'l. left between the stud holes & the kingpin hole :eek: Sounds like you've had good luck so far ;p
 

LC_Hamma

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Installed Skid:

Tired of seeing small progress pics of this :rolleyes: The only thing I wasn't pleased about is I didn't have to cut into the frame. I could have attached the side frame bolts onto the outward braces, like I did at the front crossbar, oh well. I think I'll replace the grade 8 bolts with hardened buttonhead bolts for easier protection from rocks. Ace didn't stock 7/16" buttonhead, so I'll have to go to Threads Of The South.......
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GXO

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hmmm, I am local too...damnit! :)
 
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You are crazy sick:lol:! Oh well I'm moving to Vegas anyway and there are lots of rocks around there so just go ahead and keep your secret rock garden to yourself Greedy Man!:rolleyes::D
 

LC_Hamma

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Here's a pic of a stock TJ panhard mount: I'll have to make mine as beefy outta 3/8" plate, not like the one I broke off, which was 1/4" wall & much smaller. That bracket used some type of tie rod end. I'll mount mine in double shear w/ a 3/4" fine thread grade 8 bolt. Glad it didn't happen when I was screamin up & down those Black Hills :eek: :rolleyes:
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