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Pete

Pete

10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
May 19, 2004
Threads
41
Messages
445
Location
Midwestern Flatlands
Hey Guys,

Got a crudded up tank in my '76 FJ40 that I need to clean out or have cleaned out and then sealed. It doesn't have any leaks but I haven't driven it for 5 years or so and I'm sure the outlet is rusted or dirty as I can't get any flow out. I've cleaned and sealed a couple of Harley tanks but they were 2 or 3 gallons and easier to handle and rotate than a Cruiser tank. I know there are a lot of clean/seal products out there from KBS, POR-15, Summit and others but there's a gastankrenu dealer about 50 miles away and I'm considering taking my tank there and wondered if anyone has any experience with them? A search showed just one mention of gastankrenu.com and it was from 2007. I'd do the DIY kits but I'm concerned about getting the inside good and clean and de-rusted compared to what will result with having it "boiled" out.

Thanks,
Pete
 
We used to have a radiator shop in town that would boil a tank out and place a sealant in it. Worked great. I think the system was used in airplanes. You may want to check with a local radiator shop or even an airport mechanic they may be able to help you out. All the shops like this have closed. No one repairs anything anymore.
 
Pete,
As a side job I sold Por-15 products for ten years. When involved in Sunbeam Tiger and Porsche 356's, the tanks were considered like gold.
I would do everything possible to save them.
It is nice to have a place to boil the tank out. If not close then order the Por-15 Kit. It works. But, you must follow the directions exactly.
The last Tiger we did (twin tanks) is now "Down Under" and the fellow and I still write each other........no problems to date and that was years ago.
I just got in a '68 FJ40 and I will be doing the tank with Por if needed. I'm happy to provide any additional info I can.
I also have the best tips on saving the Por-15 paint in the can so it doesn't go bad. I know my stuff.
Parnelli Jones quote........"it ain't bragging if you can do it"
 
When I called around, every shop that still had somebody who would even attempt this was close enough to the price of the new OEM tank that is/was still available, that it didn't make sense. Call around, or jump on the Toyota tank while you still can. I was amazed it was available even now.
 
scoutingranch said:
Pete,
As a side job I sold Por-15 products for ten years. When involved in Sunbeam Tiger and Porsche 356's, the tanks were considered like gold.
I would do everything possible to save them.
It is nice to have a place to boil the tank out. If not close then order the Por-15 Kit. It works. But, you must follow the directions exactly.
The last Tiger we did (twin tanks) is now "Down Under" and the fellow and I still write each other........no problems to date and that was years ago.
I just got in a '68 FJ40 and I will be doing the tank with Por if needed. I'm happy to provide any additional info I can.
I also have the best tips on saving the Por-15 paint in the can so it doesn't go bad. I know my stuff.
Parnelli Jones quote........"it ain't bragging if you can do it"
Click to expand...

Scout,
I've used POR-15 products for years, just not their tank seal kit.When some previous posts were discussing repair to pin holes, I almost joined in that I repaired those on I think it was my '71 using the POR-15 epoxy putty followed by a couple of coats of POR-15 paint. I drove it for I don't know how many years with no leaks. I really like that epoxy putty and have used it for all kinds of small rust repairs that weren't worth cranking up my MIG for. It is very easy to work with and shapes and sands nicely. Like anything else in the way of paints or coatings, prep is the secret. The tank I'm dealing with now just needs to be cleaned and de-rusted on the inside. I'll try my local radiator shop for a boil-out or use muriatic acid or whatever comes with the POR kit myself.

Re more info, how do you store the opened POR-15 in a can? Wife doesn't like it in the 'fridge. Also, you wouldn't know of any 356 projects around that owners don't want an arm and a leg for? If there's anything I like better than FJ40s it's Porsche's!

Thanks,
Pete
 
i was told by a POR15 dealer to put a layer of cling wrap right on the surface of the liquid to store it. that way it seals the surface from the air and stops it from hardening. i haven’t opened my can yet so haven’t tried it but maybe you can free up some fridge space that way!!
 
I have done a few tanks and the best way I have found is to buy a gallon of Muratic Acid ($10) from Home Depot or Lowes and put it full strength in the tank for about an hour or two. (sloshing it around from time to time) After that we would put links of chain and shake the tank to break everything loose and then rinse out repeatedly. You will notice the inner sheet metal is quite clean and ready for prep and sealing after it dries out completely. You can use the sealer of choice. Total cost is under $100 on the high end
 
I did the 25 gallon tank on the Wild Weasel (1979 Dodge Ramp truck)
2018-02-28 10.16.48.webp
and it worked great.
 
Before I installed an in tank fuel pump for my fuel injection I wanted to clean up my tank. It wasn't real bad so I took it to a local shop. After looking inside the tank they commented that it looked like the factory had some sort of sealer on the inside and was afraid that after they boiled it out their sealer might not stick and would create more problems for the fuel system. I passed on having it done.

I chose to simply flush the tank with Evapo-Rust to remove the small amount of rust in the tank. After giving the product time to work and sloshing and turning several times I simply emptied it and then flushed several times with water before a good air dry with my compressor. Rust was gone and I felt good about not having the possibility of a second coating peeling away and clogging the fuel system.
 
franklin40 said:
i was told by a POR15 dealer to put a layer of cling wrap right on the surface of the liquid to store it. that way it seals the surface from the air and stops it from hardening. i haven’t opened my can yet so haven’t tried it but maybe you can free up some fridge space that way!!
Click to expand...

Yes, this is in the instructions on their website and/or that come with the product. It may work for a short time but it doesn't work for a few months or more. I clean the lip on the can real well, put on a piece of saran wrap, put the lid on and seat it with taps of a hammer and wrap blue painter's tape around the can to seal the ends of the saran wrap. If I open it up in a coupe of months there will be a solidified crust on top of the liquid about an 1/8" or so thick. I break through that and fish out the largest pieces and use the liquid left below and it seems to work as well and last as long as a freshly opened can. I've tried storage in the refrigerator and I don't think that helps it last any longer than in my shop. All of this applies to the original black and gray POR-15, the Tie Coat primer (they call it something different now), and the Chassis Coat Black (which also has a new name, maybe Top-coat).

Pete
 
dodored said:
I have done a few tanks and the best way I have found is to buy a gallon of Muratic Acid ($10) from Home Depot or Lowes and put it full strength in the tank for about an hour or two. (sloshing it around from time to time) After that we would put links of chain and shake the tank to break everything loose and then rinse out repeatedly. You will notice the inner sheet metal is quite clean and ready for prep and sealing after it dries out completely. You can use the sealer of choice. Total cost is under $100 on the high end
Click to expand...

That's pretty much exactly what I've planned to try. I've used a handful of nuts and bolts in motorcycle tanks but I like your idea of the chain so I'll try that next.

Thanks,
Pete
 
O.K Lads, here is the scoop on using Por-15 out of a can and saving it. Don't follow the instructions on the can or the website.
Before I write the smart way, keep in mind that when I use, as an example, 1/4 of can of regular Por-15, I can go back to it six month, 12 months........it will still be good.

First off, Por should only be used in light coats and the metal needs to rough, not sheet metal smooth.
And always use Por-15 thinner to clean the metal before applying paint, nothing else.
The directions read that you should not shake the can before using due to the black carbon bits that gives it the black color.
Shake the hell out of it, then pour thru an automotive painters filter to trap the black bits, throw away filter.

I always let the paint "flash off" in the receptacle where paint has been poured in for 30 to 45 minutes, it thickens it up a tad.

If you want to top coat with a semi flat, wait for about an hour or so. Just long enough to be able to drag you fingers across the painted surface without residue sticking to the skin but not to dry. Then fog only with, I use Rustoleum semi gloss. The fogging allows the gasses from Por to escape and not bubble.
Wait at least 24 hours then have it. Spray away.

On to saving your expensive can of Por-15. Do not, open the lid !!!! Instead use a small center punch or an awl to punch two holes on opposite sides of the lid. When done with the days task of using the paint, simply screw in wood or metal screws into the holes. Done.

The reason Por-15 paint gets hard in the can if the lid has been removed and replaced is that the paint is a moisture cure product.
You trap moisture in can and guess what the results are..........money down the drain.

If you have more questions feel free to ask by PM or onsite.

As for the gas tank sealer, once used just throw the remainder away, it will do you no good.
Sorry to be so long winded on the use of Por-15.
Regards
 
So you pour the POR out of these little holes?

On to saving your expensive can of Por-15. Do not, open the lid !!!! Instead use a small center punch or an awl to punch two holes on opposite sides of the lid. When done with the days task of using the paint, simply screw in wood or metal screws into the holes. Done.

I thought the POR lit said shaking creates air bubbles which impacts the coverage and durability?

Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a try the next time I start a new can.

Pete
 
Yep........pour it out the little holes, or, make a bigger hole and you will need a larger screw. When you pour the Por-15 thru the painters filter, it eliminates the tiny bubbles. Auto painter filters are cheap, I buy them by the dozen/s

Remember, this doesn't apply to the gas tank sealer. Just the Por-15 paint. You will be using all of the gas tank sealer.
Also, if there are any pinholes in the tank, I try and solder.
 
scoutingranch said:
Yep........pour it out the little holes, or, make a bigger hole and you will need a larger screw. When you pour the Por-15 thru the painters filter, it eliminates the tiny bubbles. Auto painter filters are cheap, I buy them by the dozen/s

Remember, this doesn't apply to the gas tank sealer. Just the Por-15 paint. You will be using all of the gas tank sealer.
Also, if there are any pinholes in the tank, I try and solder.
Click to expand...

I've had success sealing pin holes with POR's epoxy putty as I think I mentioned in a previous post.
 
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