FZJ80 Rough Idle / Misfire P0300, P0303 & P0304 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 23, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
40
Location
houston, tx
Hello,

Late last year I bought a '96 LX450 with 218k, now at 222k. I'm currently experiencing P0300, P0303 and P0304 with rough idle. Roughness is especially pronounced when in drive/reverse and brake depressed (like at a stop light). CEL on, and blinks for ~20 seconds when first driving after starting the truck, then stays on constantly for the rest of the drive. My thoughts below incorporate, to the best of my searching, previous threads on this topic but this is my first post so please bear with me if I missed one.

Relevant history:
- PO had engine out to replace head gaskets, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, ignition coil and hoses attached to the engine
- PO installed snorkel and new filter box and air intake plumbing thru to engine intake
- There was a hint of a misfire before the roughness began. At idle in Park, every ~15 seconds the engine would stutter very slightly
- Idles fine at 650
- O2 sensors appear original
- At parking lot speed, steering turned hard left/right with brake applied causes engine stutter and stall

Recent diagnosis info:
- Confirmed leaking exhaust connection between Y-pipe and exhaust manifold by spraying soapy water on it while idling
- Replaced spark plugs with iridium units, spark plug wires and ignition coil
- Local shop is fixing the exhaust leak
- Local shop believes the injectors are fine, but that cylinders 3-6 are all misfiring, not just 3 and 4
- Local shop doesn't believe it's the pressure check valve on the brake booster

Thoughts on what to do going forward? I'm thinking, in sequence of cost/complexity:

- Fix exhaust leak (being done now)
- Replace O2 sensors
- Replace EGR
- Replace brake booster check valve

This is my first post so here's a little on my rig. I've benefitted from looking through the various MUD forums to learn how to fix and replace many parts on my truck. I've listed what I've done below. Except for the sound deadening, most of it's pretty plain vanilla and already-discussed so I won't waste people's time.

Replaced:
- Rear door and tailgate lock actuator motors
- 4 window runs replaced
- Rear tailgate gas struts
- Alpine ILX-407 head unit, 5.25" Focal Auditor (front) and 4" rear
- Deleted factory amp and bypassed front tweeter and console woofer
- Fixed shaky driver mirror
- Double cardan front drive shaft greatly reduced vibration noise when releasing accelerator at highway speeds
- LED lighting all around
- Weatherstripping (4 doors, car and door side rubber)

Sound deadening:
Also installed Resonix CLD squares inside 4 doors and all over the trunk floor and rear wheel wells. Bought 1 box of 40 ft2 to try and results were fruitful. A db measurement app on my phone previously measured at the driver's head 76db at 65mph with little/no traffic around me. I'm now at 69/70db before sound deadenning the passenger area floor or firewall. An old Motortrend article from '96 described the cabin noise at 71db at the same speed so I'd say the weatherstripping and Resonix were a win. The Resonix alone dropped the interior noise by 3 db and the weatherstripping took it the rest of the way.

Truck already had:
- 3" Dobinsons lift and steering damper
- ARB front bumper and brush guard
- Dobinsons rear bumper with swing spare tire and jerry can holders
- Triple locked with TJM pneumatic
- 17.5k# Smittybuilt winch up front with Factor 55
- Safari snorkel
- Stock 16" rims with 33" BFG KO2
- Emerald Green

Thanks in advance, folks!

- Jason
 
If these were already mentioned and I missed them I apologize. I have a 99 with 210k miles (give or take), and these are some issues I have had.

- Timing Belt (100k miles) usually need replaced in that time frame
- Coils
- Sparks
- Misfire could be from cylinders? Not sure if that was checked or not but had that problem. Not too expensive...

These may not all pertain to your exact issue, but definitely could help with any struggles you might be having. I'm not a mechanic though lol
 
If these were already mentioned and I missed them I apologize. I have a 99 with 210k miles (give or take), and these are some issues I have had.

- Timing Belt (100k miles) usually need replaced in that time frame
- Coils
- Sparks
- Misfire could be from cylinders? Not sure if that was checked or not but had that problem. Not too expensive...

These may not all pertain to your exact issue, but definitely could help with any struggles you might be having. I'm not a mechanic though lol
Thanks. All but timing belt/chain have been replaced on this 80. I'll add that to the list of potential culprits!
Jason
 
P0300 is a random misfire, P0303 is a misfire on Cyl 3, P0304 is a misfire on Cyl 4. During head work on more than one occasion people have comfused the injector plugs for 3 & 4 causing this situation. The factory connecters alternate between brown and grey connectors along the fuel rail. You can easily check these from above.
 
P0300 is a random misfire, P0303 is a misfire on Cyl 3, P0304 is a misfire on Cyl 4. During head work on more than one occasion people have comfused the injector plugs for 3 & 4 causing this situation. The factory connecters alternate between brown and grey connectors along the fuel rail. You can easily check these from above.
Thanks, landtank. I will check the plug colors when i next go by the shop. But wouldn't an inadvertent connector swap have caused very jerky misfires right away, as opposed to the problem waiting 4k into my ownership to really show up?

I'm hoping my best case is the exhaust fix and perhaps O2 sensor replacement (even though they don't pop codes) does the trick.
 
Gasket between Y pipe and exhaust manifold just about done and shop says no joy on rough idle. Their next recommendation is a pressure test. They know the injectors are spraying the right fuel mixture but don't know if the injectors may be staying open...
 
If the shop has the ability to do a relative compression test with an inductive amperage pickup and digital storage oscilloscope, they should do that to confirm there is not an internal engine problem. There is also a lot which can be determined by connecting/observing a vacuum gauge while idling, under load(in Drive), and accelerating/decelerating, etc.
 
Are the injectors fully plugged in, how is the wiring harness. Truck has a timing chain and only one head gasket. Timing chain should last at least 300k
 
Thanks ToyotaDon and Ajax1. Will ask the shop if their compression equipment is capable of what you suggest. As for the injectors, I haven't messed with them but will have the shop check as well, and will personally check when i have the truck back. I will also check the wiring harness since I did remove the stock amp from behind/beside the glove box and that's where the ECU lives.

This is a newbie question but what sort of "internal engine problems" could I be facing? PO had the engine out of the truck while refurbing the whole vehicle (doesn't mean he didn't discover a timebomb and just put everything back nice and shiny/clean).
 
Thanks, landtank. I will check the plug colors when i next go by the shop. But wouldn't an inadvertent connector swap have caused very jerky misfires right away, as opposed to the problem waiting 4k into my ownership to really show up?

I'm hoping my best case is the exhaust fix and perhaps O2 sensor replacement (even though they don't pop codes) does the trick.
don't over think it. Just have the shop check the wiring.
 
Thanks ToyotaDon and Ajax1. Will ask the shop if their compression equipment is capable of what you suggest. As for the injectors, I haven't messed with them but will have the shop check as well, and will personally check when i have the truck back. I will also check the wiring harness since I did remove the stock amp from behind/beside the glove box and that's where the ECU lives.

This is a newbie question but what sort of "internal engine problems" could I be facing? PO had the engine out of the truck while refurbing the whole vehicle (doesn't mean he didn't discover a timebomb and just put everything back nice and shiny/clean).

There is a possibility for burnt valves, as well as compression leaks through the head gasket, cylinder head, or block. Having the misfire on adjacent cylinders might mean they are related. Both of the checks I mentioned are quick ways of determining if any of those are possible.
 
How does the wiring harness look where it goes past the EGR pipe? Once you confirm the injector wires are correct I'd open it up and take a look.

You can run with the 02 sensors disconnected to isolate those as an issue. It'll run rich but smoother if the 02 sensors are suspect.
 
There is a possibility for burnt valves, as well as compression leaks through the head gasket, cylinder head, or block. Having the misfire on adjacent cylinders might mean they are related. Both of the checks I mentioned are quick ways of determining if any of those are possible.
Thanks ToyotaDon! Will get the shop to do that tmrw (they’re waiting on one of the 2 exhaust flange gaskets to arrive). Really appreciate the insight.
 
How does the wiring harness look where it goes past the EGR pipe? Once you confirm the injector wires are correct I'd open it up and take a look.

You can run with the 02 sensors disconnected to isolate those as an issue. It'll run rich but smoother if the 02 sensors are suspect.
How does the wiring harness look where it goes past the EGR pipe? Once you confirm the injector wires are correct I'd open it up and take a look.

You can run with the 02 sensors disconnected to isolate those as an issue. It'll run rich but smoother if the 02 sensors are suspect.
Truck is at the shop right now so can’t say for sure but the harness looks like it was new or close to new after the engine was overhauled by the PO. Either that or they fooled me with an extra fine cleaning of all things in the engine bay.

I will check it though, beside EGR and also behind glove box since the removal of the factory amp left more space which may have allowed vibrational movement and a short of sorts.

Thanks for the pointer!
 
Shop is doing compression test this morning.

Said the injectors appear seated and double checked the spark plugs. No visually alarming harness issue near EGR. Oil cap on tight. Will keep y’all posted. Thanks for the suggestions and ideas!
 
Shop did a compression test on each cylinder. 1 and 2 pressured up to 149 psi but didn't hold for long. Cyls 3-6 couldn't reach past 30 psi. Shop thinks it's a blown head gasket or worse, estimates $7.5k to replace. Obviously very disheartening since PO had shown me photos of the engine out and being refurbished for HG, specifically.

I'm new to 80 series ownership but for that kind of cash couldn't i find a moderately used GM 5.3 + tran from a junkyard and drop it in, resulting in a truck with a durable engine, smoother tran, better MPG, way less mileage and much more power? Or should HG replacement cost way less?

I'd greatly appreciate thoughts/ideas here. Located in Houston. Thanks!
 
I'm still thinking about this one but it's hard to believe the engine would even run with only 30psi on half of the cylinders.

Are there any other symptoms? Oil in coolant or coolant in oil? Excessive smoke? A flashing cel isn't a good sign unless it's in test mode.

When I read the shop said the injectors "appear" to be seated does that mean they pulled everything apart to look? Not trying to bash on the shop but that's a decent amount of work for a random check. Does the shop have access to the factory service manual?

Keep a lookout for a known good used engine. Any kind of swap will likely cost more than you want to pay. Nothing about a swap is drop in on these.
 
Shop did a compression test on each cylinder. 1 and 2 pressured up to 149 psi but didn't hold for long. Cyls 3-6 couldn't reach past 30 psi. Shop thinks it's a blown head gasket or worse, estimates $7.5k to replace. Obviously very disheartening since PO had shown me photos of the engine out and being refurbished for HG, specifically.

I'm new to 80 series ownership but for that kind of cash couldn't i find a moderately used GM 5.3 + tran from a junkyard and drop it in, resulting in a truck with a durable engine, smoother tran, better MPG, way less mileage and much more power? Or should HG replacement cost way less?

I'd greatly appreciate thoughts/ideas here. Located in Houston. Thanks!
A shop doing a compression test and stated "149 psi but didn't hold for long"?

If that was their exact statement, then find a different shop. Seriously.

A proper compression test is done with the engine rotating, the throttle held open, ignition unplugged, spark plug removed with a gauge fitted into the cylinder and the engine at operating temp. It is a "maximum" reading over three compression cycles.

After it's done "dry" then a "wet" test should be done immediately following.

Otherwise, they would be doing a leakdown test, and that determines whether the valves are leaking or the rings are leaking.

@dieseldog what's the name of the shop you recommend in H?
 

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