Fuseable links, backward battery charging and smoke! What did I break, blow or melt? (1 Viewer)

[jht3]

the alarm going off isn't a scientific test. it going off would normally be a bad thing. we don't even know what alarm you have. what was going off, the stock horns or some aftermarket siren?

you went forward. you got rid of a suspect battery cut off switch and wiring. we now know you have a good battery and fusible links. changing the relay was probably unnecessary but you didn't test the old one before replacing it so we don't know for sure.

get a multimeter
put it in continuity mode
remove each fuse from the engine fuse box and cabin fuse box and test across the tangs; this includes the big red fuse
replace any bad ones
replace the GAUGE 7.5 with a proper 10A. and any others that aren't right
put the good ones back

key in pos2, ign on
what does your cluster look like?
now put your DMM in DC volt mode
test for voltage at each fuse in both boxes
what is working, and what isn't?

the EWD shows how to perform these tests, but if something doesn't make sense, just ask

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Update: Tuesday evening 10/24

Bought multi meter Ran continuity test to best of my knowledge. All fuses under the dash in the panel below the Locker selector test out. I replaced 3. All ring out.

Tested the 50A red cube on fender well fuse box.....if I am running continuity test correctly....it tested out and "beeped" like all other functioning fuses.

If I tested vehicle battery property I get 12.51V.

Turning the key to On: I now have an open door/door ajar icon I did NOT have yesterday. Vehicle clock is now on. And the Low Voltage light from last night is illuminated still. That's it. Pics to follow. I have NOT attempted to start the Cruiser.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Pics of dash

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

"Why replace EFI Main"?....because the Toyota dealer is 40+ minutes away and I was there buying the Fuseable link. I spent the extra $11 and bought the EFI. Seemed the best option. If they both test fine...I have a spare and didn't waste 80 minutes of my life driving back for one.

 

[Ragnaroek]

If you are getting none of the normal dash lights when turning on the ignition you have possibly blown up your alternator. They get their ground through the alternator coils until it starts charging. At least they do on the diesel 80s. I burned up my alt when a battery clamp came loose and lost all dash lights.

 

[jht3]

Tested the 50A red cube on fender well fuse box.....if I am running continuity test correctly....it tested out and "beeped" like all other functioning fuses.

sounds right. you have a nicer DMM than i started with. the beeping is a nice feature i enjoy on my good meter.

Turning the key to On: I now have an open door/door ajar icon I did NOT have yesterday. Vehicle clock is now on. And the Low Voltage light from last night is illuminated still. That's it

Seems like your DOME fuse is ok since it feeds the open door light and your interior lights.

But you are missing a bunch of stuff. Like seatbelt light, engine malfunction light, brake light, etc. I still suspect your GAUGE fuse, which is downstream of the Ignition switch, 50A red fuse, and FL AM1. If we assume your FL is OK and 50A AM1 fuse, then the obvious guilty party is that 10A fuse. i've had fuses not making solid contact in the fuse slot before so take a GOOD look at that socket.

Does your cigarette lighter work? think yes or your clock would have issues. power power mirrors should also work. Rear heater button? These are also behind the FL AM1 and AM1 fuse but not the GAUGE fuse.

How about your horn? Hazard button? Those off FL AM1 and not ignition switched or through the 50A fuse

FL AM2 seems ok b/c you are getting that voltage light. but no reading on the voltage needle

headlights? brake lights?

I spent the extra $11 and bought the EFI. Seemed the best option.

no argument. $11 is peace of mind and now you have a spare to keep in the glovebox

 

[jonheld]

If you are getting none of the normal dash lights when turning on the ignition you have possibly blown up your alternator. They get their ground through the alternator coils until it starts charging. At least they do on the diesel 80s. I burned up my alt when a battery clamp came loose and lost all dash lights.

Not so on an FZJ80.

 

[jonheld]

I agree with @jht3. For reference here is the entire dash cluster schemo.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Specifically...what's my next step? I was fully expecting "more". In the fuse block inside by driver's knee....two maybe three of those fuses were bad or didnt test reliably. I replaced them. As I stated last night...continuity across all inside fuses was good. I can unplug, wiggle, reinstall a few of them. But I really don't think Dash light fuses are the issue.

Trying to trouble shoot by limiting variables, there's been suggestions of Grounds, etc. The Cruiser ran just fine before I hooked up a battery backward. Right where it's parked. I burned, melted or welded some parts that should not have been welded.

The red 50A "cube". Pulled it out, flipped it over. Only two tabs on the bottom. Ran continuity test like regular fuses. Tested fine. Replaced. That fuse seems hard to source locally. Have two needing returned. NAPA an O Reilly are clueless on fuses for these. At least those type.

Can we discuss fuseable link? I paid attention to removal and reinstall of new. I don't think there's too much to screw up with that one, but with me Who Knows? I cleaned terminals and contacts and feel it's tight with decent contact. In my internet and YT research the FL is supposed to be the stop gap and melt and "save your ass" from dumb stuff like I did. I was hoping and expecting more with the replacement.

Do I need to look at ECUs?

Did I potentially do more damage attempting to start the Cruiser....3-4 times after the FL was melted??

Feeling pretty "Stuck" now as this is a Flat Bed type project for a Shop if I can't make some headway on this. Live pretty rural and will not be a cheap on down into town.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Updated fender wall fuse block. Replaced a few fuses. All test OK

 

[Kernal]

A question for the electron gurus (because IDK), it was touched on earlier but could a triggered/active alarm system (shorted wire somewhere, engine harness??) explain any of the current situation?

Or to ask it the other way around, what do most alarm systems turn off or interrupt when triggered?

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I believe the key was in the On position for that photo. But I’ll repeat again tonight

Feel I went backward. The alarm/horn would sound immediately one power lead was connected prior.

Now…there is no Alarm. Something off. And not much changed. New battery. New fuseable. New EFI Main. That’s it

Alarm factory or aftermarket

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

I simply don't have a clue. I assumed factory. It works off the Valet rocker switch near the Diff Locker knob.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

 

[BILT4ME]

I simply don't have a clue. I assumed factory. It works off the Valet rocker switch near the Diff Locker knob.

Do you have a small light up above the radio or on the left by the mirror adjustment switch?

Do you have a rectangular box under the driver's seat with wires coming out of it?

If the answer to these is yes, you may have a factory alarm. However, I am not aware of any valet switch with those.

If factory, this is the time to remove it to eliminate it from the equation, just my opinion.

So, yes, based on the pic you just posted.

 

[jonheld]

Or to ask it the other way around, what do most alarm systems turn off or interrupt when triggered?

The port installed alarm just cuts the logic to the starter.

 

[jonheld]

Specifically...what's my next step?

Let's step back a bit here.
Ignition key ON, Meter set to DC volts, black lead on the ground point in the left side kick panel, red lead on the fuse.
Are you getting +12 VDC to the 10 amp GAUGE fuse?
Are you getting +12 to the 7.5 amp IGN fuse?
Are you getting +12 to the 10 amp STOP fuse?

 

[jht3]

Specifically...what's my next step?

Can you refer to my prior post and answer the questions?

really trying to help here, but all i'm getting from you are things like "two maybe three of those fuses were bad". which ones?

for most of my questions it is a simple matter of honking the horn or pushing the hazard switch. do they work? once we get a general idea of what IS and ISN'T working, we can zero in on trouble circuits. it's not yet time to blame the ECU as we aren't even certain it is getting power!

don't give up yet! not sure if i've connected a battery backwards, but i HAVE nearly welded a wrench between the battery posts. more than once sadly

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

10-4. I'll address the above two posts from Jon and JHT tonight even if it's via Headlamp. Cold n super schitty Weather Advisory up here.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Let's step back a bit here.
Ignition key ON, Meter set to DC volts, black lead on the ground point in the left side kick panel, red lead on the fuse.
Are you getting +12 VDC to the 10 amp GAUGE fuse?
Are you getting +12 to the 7.5 amp IGN fuse?
Are you getting +12 to the 10 amp STOP fuse?

FYI I've not dicked with anything in the kick panel fuse area yet. Will see tonight