Get a battery and the fusible links and then see what's up when you try to start it.
Fuseable links, backward battery charging and smoke! What did I break, blow or melt?
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Your dealer is an idiot and looking at the wrong part. Part # 90987-02004
List price is $11.84 from Toyota. With a discount $8.05 from what used to be McGeorge Toyota.
All major manufacturers have batteries with reversed terminals. Not rare at all. I like Odyssey and Interstate personally, but there are many less expensive options.
- Thread starter
- #25
Update: Monday night. New Interstate 24F. New fusesble link. New EFI relay. Mocked up and installed. Got ONE dash light. Upper right corner of panel. Red. This would be two clicks into the key stroke. ACC position. One prior to starting. I did NOT attempt to turn it over. See pics
- Thread starter
- #26
The above was the only light to illuminate. Yesterday I had zero lights on the dash.
Tested some fuses w cheap trouble light. Two 15A w green checks were fine. Two upper 15A did not illuminate. But I didn’t turn on dome lights etc. The 75A…..not turned on light. Key out. Key on or Key ACC. I don’t have a 75A at home. Didn’t look blown. But didn’t test positive either.
- Thread starter
- #27
Part # for swapped items tonight
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What you are calling 75A fuse is actually a 7.5A fuse (7 point 5).
Fuses are cheap, just change all of them. Then the ones that were actually ok become spares. Buy decent fuses (Littelfuse) etc, no cheap china junk.
cheers,
george.
Fuses are cheap, just change all of them. Then the ones that were actually ok become spares. Buy decent fuses (Littelfuse) etc, no cheap china junk.
cheers,
george.
Example of what you should see:
FWIW Toyota calls the large square red (50amp) and yellow (60amp) PAL (Pacific Auto Link) fuses "Fusible Links" (mentioned to avoid confusion with the Fusible Link 3-wire bundle).
The 60amp yellow fuse appears to be missing from your fuse box??
FWIW one Mud member ??10+ years ago installed Made in Chynna junk Wally Marts fuses and one of them didn't pop when it should have causing his Cowl harness behind the dash to burn up. That would be a major repair job ie: you have to tear the entire dash/instrument panel off/apart to fix/replace. Toyota fuses for our 80 series are the PEC (Pacific) brand, Made in Japan; they do cost more but IME are reliable.
www.pecj.co.jp
FWIW Toyota calls the large square red (50amp) and yellow (60amp) PAL (Pacific Auto Link) fuses "Fusible Links" (mentioned to avoid confusion with the Fusible Link 3-wire bundle).
The 60amp yellow fuse appears to be missing from your fuse box??
FWIW one Mud member ??10+ years ago installed Made in Chynna junk Wally Marts fuses and one of them didn't pop when it should have causing his Cowl harness behind the dash to burn up. That would be a major repair job ie: you have to tear the entire dash/instrument panel off/apart to fix/replace. Toyota fuses for our 80 series are the PEC (Pacific) brand, Made in Japan; they do cost more but IME are reliable.
Automotive Fuses｜PEC
PEC has achieved commanding domestic and overseas market shares for its automotive fuses, which have evolved into high-value products in tandem with advances in motorization. We contribute to the creation of a future automotive society distinguished by safety and comfort with an eye toward a...
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- Thread starter
- #30
My dumbass-ness is entertaining even to myself. 7.5A makes much more sense. Didn’t have my reading glasses
- Thread starter
- #31
The PO did tell me he disabled the ABS. To what level I do not know. Or why. But that fuse shows ABS. I can reason why it’s not present
That's just the low voltage indicator light, if you didn't know. Normal to see until the engine is started.
The important one to look for is the Check Engine Light. It should illuminate when the ignition is turned to the 'on' position, before starting. It should go out after starting. If you don't initially see the CEL in the 'on' position, it means the ECU isn't getting voltage or it's dead. Technically there's a third option, no CEL can indicate that a previous owner removed the CEL bulb (okay, a fourth option: dead CEL bulb, but I don't think I've ever heard of that actually happening, whereas there is at least one thread here about a missing CEL bulb).
No. Look at the shape of the black plastic around the pins. It's keyed so that the relay can only insert in one orientation.
- Thread starter
- #33
I’ve seen all the dash lights prior. Tested the lockers. Diff lock. Etc. dash was a Xmas tree prior. I’ve got some issues.
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
Some more info just in case the fuse diagram on the cover is rubbed off...
fuse-box.info
Have you started up the truck?
Fuse Box Diagram Toyota Land Cruiser (80/J80; 1990-1997)
Fuse box diagrams (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) Toyota Land Cruiser (80/J80; 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997).
fuse-box.info
Have you started up the truck?
sounds like you still don't have a digital multimeter. i got by with the cheapest one from harbor freight for an embarrassingly long time. i use them all the time. every hardware or auto parts store will sell these.
didnt see you test the other 7.5A fuse in the bottom right corner. its the DOME fuse. it should be hot at all times.
when you say you tested with a test light, you were testing for 12v across the fuses? key off, acc on, ign on? i'm having a hard time following your troubleshooting procedures. fuses like the headlight fuses you marked with red X's won't show voltage without the headlight switch ON. the 7.5A CHARGE fuse you also marked with a red X is ignition switched and downstream of the IGN fuse in the drivers dash.
page 36 of the EWD shows the power flow. page 48 is also good. test each fuse in continuity/ohms mode of your DMM. print out those pages and check off the good/bad fuses and where you are getting power and where you aren't.
didnt see you test the other 7.5A fuse in the bottom right corner. its the DOME fuse. it should be hot at all times.
when you say you tested with a test light, you were testing for 12v across the fuses? key off, acc on, ign on? i'm having a hard time following your troubleshooting procedures. fuses like the headlight fuses you marked with red X's won't show voltage without the headlight switch ON. the 7.5A CHARGE fuse you also marked with a red X is ignition switched and downstream of the IGN fuse in the drivers dash.
page 36 of the EWD shows the power flow. page 48 is also good. test each fuse in continuity/ohms mode of your DMM. print out those pages and check off the good/bad fuses and where you are getting power and where you aren't.
In the first picture with the low voltage light illuminated, the voltage gauge is reading 0 volts. You're missing something very basic here.
Please show a picture of the dash lamps with the key in the ON/RUN position before cranking the starter.
Please show a picture of the dash lamps with the key in the ON/RUN position before cranking the starter.
i saw that too
would mean the GAUGE fuse is blown but the CHARGE and IGN fuses are good.
- Thread starter
- #39
I believe the key was in the On position for that photo. But I’ll repeat again tonight
Feel I went backward. The alarm/horn would sound immediately one power lead was connected prior.
Now…there is no Alarm. Something off. And not much changed. New battery. New fuseable. New EFI Main. That’s it
Feel I went backward. The alarm/horn would sound immediately one power lead was connected prior.
Now…there is no Alarm. Something off. And not much changed. New battery. New fuseable. New EFI Main. That’s it
Please show the entire dash cluster with the key in the ON position.
Not sure why you changed the efi relay. We're really not there yet. I'm having a hard time following you.
