Full audio upgrade, speaker sizes? (1 Viewer)

[ramangain]

As a matter of fact, I think each 2" mid mounts with one zip tie and one screw IIRC. The one in the drivers door just needs to be "shifted" a bit to clear the armrest electronics. Otherwise it is straightforward.

I also used the Auto-EQ + TA in my headunit from the start. I found that without the Auto-EQ turned on, the components sound a tad "thin" in the lower midrange and midbass. Nothing some easy EQ adjustment can't fix. Best part is that THEY FIT !!!!!

 

[gregnash]

For when I go full depth into my upgrade the plan is as follows...
- Factory amp replacement with 4-channel to power all doors (likely something like this Kicker 300 compact amp)
- Rear door speaker replacement with Morel Maximo COAX 6
- Factory Sub removal and replacement with compact powered sub (likely something like this Kicker Hideaway)

For sure the amp will be the next thing as the ground loop issue is driving me nuts. Some days it isn't too bad, others it is just annoying. I am not looking to build some massive, expensive, audiophile level system... Rather a system that will just be nice and provide good sound quality but not break the bank.

 

[katit]

Rather a system that will just be nice and provide good sound quality but not break the bank.

Depends what you call "not break the bank". $700 in my case pretty expensive IMO

 

[gregnash]

Depends what you call "not break the bank". $700 in my case pretty expensive IMO

Right... and along with that, what is all included in that price. I am looking to keep below $1k for EVERYTHING (amp, speakers, sub, wiring, etc.) which shouldn't be too difficult. That is also why I am doing in pieces, easier to amortize it over time (at least for me).

 

[katit]

easier to amortize it over time (at least for me).

I like to do it too, but sometimes it has to be done all together. I already have android headunit (yes, I know it's not best for audio, but it's a compromise for other features like OBD, camera, multiple GPS software)

I am pulling carpet and headliner to do good cleaning + soundproofing. It's the best time to do any kind of wiring. Can't upgrade speakers and keep ML amp. Can't use stock sub with upgraded speakers and amp. Here we go..

Wires: $92
Mids: $140
Amp: $252
Componets: $230
Sub: $110
-- Total $824

Not counting soundproofing mats/etc and not counting any other supplies I may need for sub box build.
Didn't get total junk (I hope) but at the same time it's a price of just one @suprarx7nut amp LOL

 

[ramangain]

Damn, those 20MX went up 40% in 3 months. Bastards.

 

[gregnash]

I like to do it too, but sometimes it has to be done all together. I already have android headunit (yes, I know it's not best for audio, but it's a compromise for other features like OBD, camera, multiple GPS software)

I am pulling carpet and headliner to do good cleaning + soundproofing. It's the best time to do any kind of wiring. Can't upgrade speakers and keep ML amp. Can't use stock sub with upgraded speakers and amp. Here we go..

Wires: $92
Mids: $140
Amp: $252
Componets: $230
Sub: $110
-- Total $824

Not counting soundproofing mats/etc and not counting any other supplies I may need for sub box build.
Didn't get total junk (I hope) but at the same time it's a price of just one @suprarx7nut amp LOL

This is what I am anticipating for my setup....
- Front speakers (Morel Maximo 6): $150.00 (with 3yr extended warranty)
- Rear speakers (Morel Maximo COAX 6): $90.00
- Amp: $140.00
- Sub: $350.00
- Misc (wires, kits, etc.): $100.00
-- Total: ~$830.00

 

[katit]

-- Total: ~$830.00

Make sure drive by St Louis in 2021 so we can compare how identically priced setups sound

 

[gregnash]

Make sure drive by St Louis in 2021 so we can compare how identically priced setups sound

 

[gregnash]

So dumb question for everyone....
Looking at getting this going sooner than later with at least the amp replacement. Question is, should I run new speaker wire to all corners? I am leaning towards yes but wondering what others thoughts are.

 

[katit]

I am going to.. Partially because this way factory harness will remain intact (all wiring of amp will be new) and partially to make sure wire is sufficient.

OTOH, stock wire should be adequate, it's not competition audio system, right? And, pulling new wire will require drilling into stock door connector (if there is connector)

 

[gregnash]

I am going to.. Partially because this way factory harness will remain intact (all wiring of amp will be new) and partially to make sure wire is sufficient.

OTOH, stock wire should be adequate, it's not competition audio system, right? And, pulling new wire will require drilling into stock door connector (if there is connector)

My understanding is that there is no door connector for earlier years. Could be wrong. Need to look at that actually.

Average speaker wire gauge is 16awg? Or is it 14awg?

 

[katit]

My understanding is that there is no door connector for earlier years. Could be wrong. Need to look at that actually.

If there is no door connector - even better, easy job and you will know for sure it's all good. Can wire completely reversible system. Not sure why (not like it matters..) but I like to keep OEM where possible.

 

[gregnash]

If there is no door connector - even better, easy job and you will know for sure it's all good. Can wire completely reversible system. Not sure why (not like it matters..) but I like to keep OEM where possible.

Same here... and not looking for competition quality. So that is why I am debating. May try it this way first with stock wiring and then if I feel there is an issue I will replace down the line.

 

[suprarx7nut]

So dumb question for everyone....
Looking at getting this going sooner than later with at least the amp replacement. Question is, should I run new speaker wire to all corners? I am leaning towards yes but wondering what others thoughts are.

Depends on what amp you're using (and its power). I rewired when I installed speakers using 125W per speaker. You can use this chart to figure out what wire would be appropriate and then measure the OEM wire. I'm guessing OEM is 18-22 awg and therefore good for ~40W.

AWG - American Wire Gauge Current Ratings

Amp ratings vs. US AWG wire gauges.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

 

[ramangain]

You can pass chunky (not welding cable) speaker wire through the rubber boots between the doors and the body to get larger wire to your aftermarket speakers, leaving the OEM stuff disconnected, unused, and unmolested. With some patience it took me about 30 minutes per door (I work really, really slowly and am usually jamming to tunes at the same time) to remove necessary panels and hardware, unplug OEM wiring at connectors to be able to get to the rubber boot from both ends, and then pass a wire through the rubber boot with a tool (a longer shaft screwdriver works just fine), and then reassembly.

 

[gregnash]

Depends on what amp you're using (and its power). I rewired when I installed speakers using 125W per speaker. You can use this chart to figure out what wire would be appropriate and then measure the OEM wire. I'm guessing OEM is 18-22 awg and therefore good for ~40W.

AWG - American Wire Gauge Current Ratings

Amp ratings vs. US AWG wire gauges.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

See the amps that I am looking at are like 50w RMS @ 4ohms so nothing crazy. Pretty sure when I was stripping the OEM cable when I installed the fronts it was 18awg.

 

[suprarx7nut]

For 50W I would leave the OEM wiring. It should be good enough, IMO.

 

[gregnash]

For 50W I would leave the OEM wiring. It should be good enough, IMO.

That's what I kinda figured... The morel's have an 80w RMS but have not desire to dump that much money into an amp (and the ones that are in my price range I truly question if they can put out that much RMS safely, cleanly and consistently) so looking for something right in the $200 range puts me squarely at Rockford Fosgate Punch/Prime (300x4) or Kenwood (3004 or X302-4) which are all 50w RMS.

 

[ramangain]

Don't dismiss this small Alpine 50x4 amp either: Alpine MRV-F300