Full audio upgrade, speaker sizes? (2 Viewers)

[West Hill]

I am considering an audio upgrade for my 2000 Landcruiser, Series 100. I am interested in a full replacement of all speakers, the head unit and adding an amplifier and maybe even a DSP or amp with DSP built in.

It looks like I have tweeter sails in the front doors and mids in both the front and rear doors and a small woofer in the rear. What are the sizes? My searches show anywhere from 6 ½” to 5 ¼ mids, I haven’t found anything on the tweeter size and not sure of the rear woofer size. I assume I would want a component set in the front and coax in the rear door. I'm interested in a Morel Hybrid 602 6-1/2 component speaker system in the front and Morel Hybrid Integra 602 in the rear. Both sets are fairly shallow but do have decent sized crossovers. Will crossovers fit on the door panel? I need to know more about the rear woofer to decide on an option. I’m not set on the Morel’s but they sound great in my 335i E92.

I think I can figure out the head unit and prefer to have an external amp. Is there an external OEM amp and where is it located? Size would help to make sure a replacement fits.

Search results for query: speaker upgrade

I had professionals do high end upgrades to my two newer cars but my Landcruiser has almost 200K miles on it and has been well used so I want to give it a try myself. It still runs like a top though and we drive it quite a bit, especially when taking the dog, hauling stuff or driving in bad weather. Not sure what I will do without the cassette player though .

Thanks.

 

[gregnash]

Few different threads out there on this...
Stock speaker size for doors will allow for certain "shallow" mount 6 1/2 and 6 3/4 speakers. Most seem to go with 6 1/2".
Tweeters seem to be 1" but there really is no definitive information on it or what is a quick and easy replacement.
Sub in back should be a single 6 1/2" but you will want to confirm yourself as 98'-99' came with dual 4 1/2" subs. There really is no "stock" replacement as the entire system is run by a small 150w amp that is under the passenger seat (unless you have the upgraded Mark Levingson system).

Headunit really should fit any standard 7" double-din/single-din unit, but really should not be more than 178mm wide. Crutchfield is a great resource for lots of this stuff as they sell connector packs and usually have all the appropriate information regarding the trucks. Biggest problem you are going to run into with the component system for the front, aside from figuring out how to mount the tweeter if you go with stock location, is the mounting of the relay box that controls the frequencies for each side.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I'm a stereo dork and I love the Morel components so you're speaking my language here.

Doors are 6.5 on my 99 (and I assume all other LCs). You can cut out the OEM cone and just screw the new components right in. Ideally, you'd use a solid adapter plate, but I don't think there's anything currently available off the shelf. I plan on making one as an official product, but just haven't had time and I think the market for such an item is relatively small since you can get decent results for free with the OEM adapter.

Tweeter sails should accommodate most tweeters, but the Morel tweeters in the Virtus 602 kit that I have are too large to easily fit. I think the hybrid uses the same or at least similarly sized tweeters. You need to really carve out the sail internal plastic or let the tweeter rest loosely in the sail panel. I think mine sound just great haphazardly stuffed in the sails, but a true audiophile might find room for improvement.

My #1 advice is to focus on front stage above all else. Since you're looking at the Hybrids that's probably a waste of breathe because you're already looking at an amazing set, but I'd still suggest the rears be the very last thing you spend time on after everything else is 100%. I run 125W for each mid and 125W for each tweeter. With only one pair of components, it's plenty loud to ruin your hearing.

I have an Audiocontrol DSP combo amp and love it. I recently bought a UMIK and have now calibrated the system as best as I know how in a few hours. It's incredible. I auditioned it for a musician friend recently and he was pretty blown away. On one song he commented, "I can tell exactly what cymbal and version that ride is. I can *hear* that it's a blah blah dark version." The clarity in those Morel speakers is something special.

There's an OEM amp that you may as well trash along with the OEM wiring. The amp is under the pass seat.

The OEM subwoofer is relatively useless once you go aftermarket anything. You can fit an 8" in a fancy enclosure if you have very good custom fab skills, but I think the simple solution for "good/great" sound is a stand alone sealed box with a 10" or 2. I have 2 Focal 27V2 subs in a sealed box. I've got more response at ~30Hz than I'd like but overall it's very good.

I'm coming up to a cross roads with my system. I just bought an 06LX with factory audio and will need to sell my 99 soon. I'd love to find something that will appreciate the audio setup in that 99, but I know I'll probably make back pennies on the dollar if I leave it in the car.

 

[West Hill]

Thanks gregnash,

By relay unit I assume you are referring to the crossover? If yes, I am a bit concerned with that. Is it also a concern in the rear doors? I can always go active in the front if needed.

Assuming the rear subwoofer is 6 ½ inches, what is the maximum depth for driver mounting and is there an enclosure, if yes what size, sealed, ported?

Any details on the dimension of the under-seat amplifier, W/L/H? Depending on size there are some great options available.

Thanks again.

Few different threads out there on this...
Stock speaker size for doors will allow for certain "shallow" mount 6 1/2 and 6 3/4 speakers. Most seem to go with 6 1/2".
Tweeters seem to be 1" but there really is no definitive information on it or what is a quick and easy replacement.
Sub in back should be a single 6 1/2" but you will want to confirm yourself as 98'-99' came with dual 4 1/2" subs. There really is no "stock" replacement as the entire system is run by a small 150w amp that is under the passenger seat (unless you have the upgraded Mark Levingson system).

Headunit really should fit any standard 7" double-din/single-din unit, but really should not be more than 178mm wide. Crutchfield is a great resource for lots of this stuff as they sell connector packs and usually have all the appropriate information regarding the trucks. Biggest problem you are going to run into with the component system for the front, aside from figuring out how to mount the tweeter if you go with stock location, is the mounting of the relay box that controls the frequencies for each side.

 

[West Hill]

Thanks suprarx7nut,

I have Morel Hybrid 402’s in my 335i E92 and also have a pair of shallow 8” Jehnert woofers under the seats and an OEM style, corner mounted sub-woofer in the trunk with JL Audio amps and DSP. It sounds fantastic but I don’t necessarily need that much for this car. I kept OEM rear speakers in my 335i and use them as fill so could do the same in the Landcruiser. My X6 upgrade takes it to a level much higher even than the 335i.

I would like some low end though; do you think something like the JL Audio 6W3V3-4 would fit in the rear factory location? I understand I won't get much out of a speaker that small but it would be better than nothing. I don’t want to add a box since this is our towing, work and dog truck.

6W3v3-4

What model is your Audiocontrol DSP amp? Curious to know what size will fit under the seat.

Thanks again.

I'm a stereo dork and I love the Morel components so you're speaking my language here.

Doors are 6.5 on my 99 (and I assume all other LCs). You can cut out the OEM cone and just screw the new components right in. Ideally, you'd use a solid adapter plate, but I don't think there's anything currently available off the shelf. I plan on making one as an official product, but just haven't had time and I think the market for such an item is relatively small since you can get decent results for free with the OEM adapter.

Tweeter sails should accommodate most tweeters, but the Morel tweeters in the Virtus 602 kit that I have are too large to easily fit. I think the hybrid uses the same or at least similarly sized tweeters. You need to really carve out the sail internal plastic or let the tweeter rest loosely in the sail panel. I think mine sound just great haphazardly stuffed in the sails, but a true audiophile might find room for improvement.

My #1 advice is to focus on front stage above all else. Since you're looking at the Hybrids that's probably a waste of breathe because you're already looking at an amazing set, but I'd still suggest the rears be the very last thing you spend time on after everything else is 100%. I run 125W for each mid and 125W for each tweeter. With only one pair of components, it's plenty loud to ruin your hearing.

I have an Audiocontrol DSP combo amp and love it. I recently bought a UMIK and have now calibrated the system as best as I know how in a few hours. It's incredible. I auditioned it for a musician friend recently and he was pretty blown away. On one song he commented, "I can tell exactly what cymbal and version that ride is. I can *hear* that it's a blah blah dark version." The clarity in those Morel speakers is something special.

There's an OEM amp that you may as well trash along with the OEM wiring. The amp is under the pass seat.

The OEM subwoofer is relatively useless once you go aftermarket anything. You can fit an 8" in a fancy enclosure if you have very good custom fab skills, but I think the simple solution for "good/great" sound is a stand alone sealed box with a 10" or 2. I have 2 Focal 27V2 subs in a sealed box. I've got more response at ~30Hz than I'd like but overall it's very good.

I'm coming up to a cross roads with my system. I just bought an 06LX with factory audio and will need to sell my 99 soon. I'd love to find something that will appreciate the audio setup in that 99, but I know I'll probably make back pennies on the dollar if I leave it in the car.

 

[fblainen11]

Speaker size is the easy part. Check out the FAQs and look at the Pre-2003 Nav delete. You'll need to source those parts. Once completed you can put any aftermarket HU you prefer.

 

[gregnash]

LOL... you guys are talking gibberish to me now!

For what its worth, Crutchfield does have a standard "adapter" ring that they sell with their speakers to go to your vehicle. For instance, talking with their reps, they recommended the Infinity Reference REF-6532EX to me which if you purchase through them comes with the special connectors to go direct to stock connections (Metra 72-8104) and the speaker mount adapter (Metra 81-8148).

I am no audiophile so will likely go with these in my doors, replace the rear sub with a small compact, integrated/contained unit like a Kicker 11HS8 as I am not looking for huge amounts of bass or anything, just something to fill in the bottom end.

 

[West Hill]

I don't have NAV.

Thanks

Speaker size is the easy part. Check out the FAQs and look at the Pre-2003 Nav delete. You'll need to source those parts. Once completed you can put any aftermarket HU you prefer.

 

[Njck22]

The only thing that I feel is "difficult" is finding a good spot for the crossovers. For my tweeters I cut into my factory sail panelsand used body filler to make them look nice. I mounted my speakers in 3/4 plywood mounting plates so as to space them out a little further, no issues fitting behind the factory grilles.

 

[fblainen11]

I installed Infinity Kappa components and had plenty of room for crossovers.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Thanks suprarx7nut,

I have Morel Hybrid 402’s in my 335i E92 and also have a pair of shallow 8” Jehnert woofers under the seats and an OEM style, corner mounted sub-woofer in the trunk with JL Audio amps and DSP. It sounds fantastic but I don’t necessarily need that much for this car. I kept OEM rear speakers in my 335i and use them as fill so could do the same in the Landcruiser. My X6 upgrade takes it to a level much higher even than the 335i.

I would like some low end though; do you think something like the JL Audio 6W3V3-4 would fit in the rear factory location? I understand I won't get much out of a speaker that small but it would be better than nothing. I don’t want to add a box since this is our towing, work and dog truck.

6W3v3-4

What model is your Audiocontrol DSP amp? Curious to know what size will fit under the seat.

Thanks again.

I can't speak to fitment. I would strongly suggest paying a good shop to build a custom enclosure. The OEM enclosure isn't going to do a good sub any favors. If you're looking at $700 speaker pairs, it would be a waste to have that huge hole in the bottom end to save a few hundred bucks. There's a lot of open space in the OEM subwoofer location and the jack to fit an 8 or even 10 without too much trimming of the OEM panels.

I have the AudioControl D-4.800. AudioControl D-4.800 D Series 4-channel car amplifier with digital signal processing — 125 watts x 4 at Crutchfield

It fits under the seat, plenty of space.

Share what you end up with!

 

[West Hill]

I can't speak to fitment. I would strongly suggest paying a good shop to build a custom enclosure. The OEM enclosure isn't going to do a good sub any favors. If you're looking at $700 speaker pairs, it would be a waste to have that huge hole in the bottom end to save a few hundred bucks. There's a lot of open space in the OEM subwoofer location and the jack to fit an 8 or even 10 without too much trimming of the OEM panels.

I have the AudioControl D-4.800. AudioControl D-4.800 D Series 4-channel car amplifier with digital signal processing — 125 watts x 4 at Crutchfield

It fits under the seat, plenty of space.

Share what you end up with!

I had really hoped not to do that as this is our third car and has some miles on it. Yet I can't really help myself and will need to really try not to go overboard.

Here is a subwoofer enclosure I built but had installed just last week, along with replacing the LF/C/RF speakers, underseat 8" woofers and rear door speakers on my X6. The Helix DSP Ultra adds RealCenter for a great 2-seat tune in addition to my driver seat tune.

 

[gregnash]

So you gotten anywhere on this? Happened to mic my tweeters on my 98 last night when I had the door apart replacing the actuator and size measured out at 34.52mm (so roughly 1 3/8").
With that said, a normal 1" tweeter should fit in that location without issue correct? I know that most just remove the tweeter, but curious to see what/how things are with an aftermarket system installed powering the door speakers and tweeters with a proper crossover.

 

[oakback]

Lotta Greek in here. I was happy my stereo worked after a DIY head unit swap.

I still get a weird whistle/whine, which gets worse when the head unit is turned off. Any idea how to get rid of that? In dum-dum speak?

 

[West Hill]

So you gotten anywhere on this? Happened to mic my tweeters on my 98 last night when I had the door apart replacing the actuator and size measured out at 34.52mm (so roughly 1 3/8").
With that said, a normal 1" tweeter should fit in that location without issue correct? I know that most just remove the tweeter, but curious to see what/how things are with an aftermarket system installed powering the door speakers and tweeters with a proper crossover.

I am working on it. I am also looking for ideas on a DIY Mobile Audio forum as I finalize equipment and budget. I even got a quote from a shop that was as much as my car is worth. Slow progress but I will get there and update when I do.

Thanks

 

[suprarx7nut]

Lotta Greek in here. I was happy my stereo worked after a DIY head unit swap.

I still get a weird whistle/whine, which gets worse when the head unit is turned off. Any idea how to get rid of that? In dum-dum speak?

Did you bypass the amp under the passenger seat? If you just removed the Toyota head unit and plopped in an aftermarket one, it's not going to work correctly, in my experience. You have to bypass the amp and that is not a "dum-dum" friendly task.

You might need to pay somebody that's better than your average professional installer to get that sorted out. I have a YouTube video showing how to do it. Search Google for YotaMD amp bypass.

 

[West Hill]

I was told 2001+ door skins have a factory location for up to a 3” speaker and I could consider buying one since it is difficult to tune a 6 1/2 inch mid with a tweeter so far away in the sail near the window. The recommendation is a 3-way would be better.

Would a 2001 + door skin fit my 2000 100 series? I don't think I have the seat memory but wouldn't need to connect them if they are on the skin.

Thanks

 

[Pucker5]

Motel tempos are good. You could bridge the power on a four channel and just leave your rears disconnected. those reference series Infiniti’s are good for a budget pick

As an budget performance play, If you’re putting in an aftermarket headunit, just get one that will allow you to run active “network as pioneer calls it” then put four channels of amp power into the front doors on a separate tweeter and separate mid. You can then just leave the rear doors disconnected. That would be correct soundstage and give you better midbass. A pair of massive ct2 tweeters and silver flute 6.5’s in moderately treated doors and a solid tune will be clean and clear and just about 130$ for all the speakers. I’d rather run active with tweeter and mid on dedicated power then a three way comp set with a passive crossover. No money wasted on door skins

I would advise you soundtreat your doors no matter what you do

 

[LaTuFu]

As a guy who can struggle to avoid temptation and dive too deep on projects sometimes, I feel your pain.

I just recently did this with my '00 non-Nav, so we're pretty much in the same boat wiring-wise.

I would encourage you to consider sticking with a double DIN product you like from Crutchfield, along with the speakers and wiring harness adapters. They also have speaker brackets for the doors that make it no fuss mounting the speakers. Plenty of clearance behind the door cards, no cutting required. Their tech support is top notch and can guide you through any stumbles you may have. I have factory wiring diagrams and there are some older threads that can guide you through wiring into reverse wire, speed wire, and any other wires that a newer head unit may want.

My main reason for suggesting this is, well, you've already said it yourself...it's a third vehicle. I love this truck more than any other beater truck I've ever had. But its a 20 year old truck and it is not the greatest platform for audio stuff. Its loud, its creaky, lots of wind noise, etc. Start down that rabbit hole and you'll start throwing lots of money down there.

FWIW, I put in a Kenwood Double DIN and (4) Rockford Fosgate 6.25 speakers in the doors. I re-used the factory amp and sub. For what I'm doing, I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.

 

[West Hill]

As a guy who can struggle to avoid temptation and dive too deep on projects sometimes, I feel your pain.

I just recently did this with my '00 non-Nav, so we're pretty much in the same boat wiring-wise.

I would encourage you to consider sticking with a double DIN product you like from Crutchfield, along with the speakers and wiring harness adapters. They also have speaker brackets for the doors that make it no fuss mounting the speakers. Plenty of clearance behind the door cards, no cutting required. Their tech support is top notch and can guide you through any stumbles you may have. I have factory wiring diagrams and there are some older threads that can guide you through wiring into reverse wire, speed wire, and any other wires that a newer head unit may want.

My main reason for suggesting this is, well, you've already said it yourself...it's a third vehicle. I love this truck more than any other beater truck I've ever had. But its a 20 year old truck and it is not the greatest platform for audio stuff. Its loud, its creaky, lots of wind noise, etc. Start down that rabbit hole and you'll start throwing lots of money down there.

FWIW, I put in a Kenwood Double DIN and (4) Rockford Fosgate 6.25 speakers in the doors. I re-used the factory amp and sub. For what I'm doing, I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.

I ended up ordering a Kenwood Excelon DDX9905S. It was listed new on Amazon for $125 less than a reconditioned one on Crutchfield and I got an Authorized online reseller to price match. I can order the wiring kit from Crutchfield and still come out ahead. It has some DSP capabilities. I had planned on getting a DSP equipped amp but you are right, this is an older truck.

I might use an extra subwoofer I built temporarily and I can always build a custom subwoofer if I get motivated. I just need to find a way to secure it and make it simple to remove when hauling stuff. It is an AuraSound 10" NS10-513-4A in a 1 cubic foot sealed enclosure.