Frame off and naybe over my head!

Joined
Feb 26, 2016
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11
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Charleston
It started out as a simple repaint and has grown from there. I was comfortable with everything that has been done until I decided to have the body blasted. I am worried now about rust popping up in the crevices that are hard to get to. Are there any effective treatments which will prevent this and not creat adhesion problems for the paint?
 

dogfishlake

"Go on a living spree"
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Dec 4, 2012
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greenville mi
It started out as a simple repaint and has grown from there. I was comfortable with everything that has been done until I decided to have the body blasted. I am worried now about rust popping up in the crevices that are hard to get to. Are there any effective treatments which will prevent this and not creat adhesion problems for the paint?
Probably the best I can think of is some form of iron phosphate treatment. At the parts store it is branded as "Extend" but many make the stuff now. It really doesn't dissolve much rust, but is a good inhibitor. Just try to blast all you can, use the phosphate material (in my powder coat shop we use a cleaner/iron phosphate wash on everything before coating- similar idea) and ensure a very good oxygen barrier from there. That would be a combination of good paint applied to proper thickness, seam sealer in joints, appropriate rust prevention coating after, such as 3M "rust fighter", and lastly use lots of wax and protectant for maintenence and she'll be great.
 

Captn Conch

Life Begins Above Timberline.
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Jun 7, 2010
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Colorful Colorado
Yeah simple paint jobs tend to run into more than you ever thought possible. What you wanna do is after the blasting with air hose the nooks and crannys then wipe clean it good with your thinner, alcohol whatever and then blast on the epoxy primer toute suite and pronto pinto before any surface rust can form, it will get in those areas you worry about. I was like a dog chasing it's tail when I painted, got the inside clean and bare metal then went to work on the outer body and by the time that was ready the inside was forming surface rust. Finally resanded the inside then sprayed on the black epoxy from Summit, and then leisurely did the outside body, then it was it's turn for the bare metal primer.
 
Joined
Jul 24, 2007
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Sudbury Ontario Canada
Ive been spraying all of my finished parts and pieces with fluid film before bolting them to the truck. Youre never gonna get all of the hard to reach areas with primer and paint and it would be a shame for rust to creep back.

D
 

fjgoober

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Jan 12, 2012
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Kansas
1) you are never in over your head. .....


You just didn't realize how much you wanted to learn more!

2) I have always tried to discourage people from doing a frame off or paint job.

Drive it and enjoy it. Rust? The only thing Toyota didn't think all the way through. Or maybe the did and wanted to sell replacement parts!

Another reason not to do a frame off is you won't wheel it as hard as these things will go because you are afraid of scratching it. Don't get me wrong I appreciate a quality frame off as well as the next guy.

When wheeling I have people approach me all the time & comment what a cool 40 I have. Every now and then they will ask are you going to do a frame off? My response is heck no I have to much fun beating her up!

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR 40! ! !
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Messages
87
Location
Pennsville, NJ
I am going through the same thought process about, "I probably should have done a frame off." But:
1> I do not have the garage and storage space for a total frame off. Only a 1 1/2 car garage full of tools and a shed.
2> I tried a frame off when I was in my 20's and lost interest and sold it. Very overwhelming.
3> As goober states, cuts into you drive and enjoy time.
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
11
Location
Charleston
Thanks for the suggestions. I am mostly worried about the inside of some of the boxed frame and the backside of a few supports which will be hard to reach. I have ordered POR 15 to recoat the frame with. I am planning to treat the body with a product called LifeGuard Active Rust Primer. Planning to use an epoxy primer after that then bc/cc.
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
11
Location
Charleston
I didn't really plan on doing this, but told my boys if Clemson won the national championship we could paint her Clemson orange! It is frustrating as hell at times, but I am learning a lot and enjoying it overall.
 
Joined
Aug 28, 2015
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1,817
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SC
I have two kids at Clemson, and there is no way I would paint it orange!

Like someone said, getting in over your head is what makes life interesting, and gives you the chance to learn!! We have all had that feeling in our gut. It is our crack.
 

Captn Conch

Life Begins Above Timberline.
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
553
Location
Colorful Colorado
Thanks for the suggestions. I am mostly worried about the inside of some of the boxed frame and the backside of a few supports which will be hard to reach. I have ordered POR 15 to recoat the frame with. I am planning to treat the body with a product called LifeGuard Active Rust Primer. Planning to use an epoxy primer after that then bc/cc.
Why base coat clear coat? Single stage urethane is simpler is beautiful and is tough stuff. Your talking time consuming effort and more material cost. Bought my paint at TCP paints online. Did my Indian Cycle 10 yrs ago and my 40 late last year. Single stage urethane with epoxy primer. Both have great results.
 
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