fool o2 sensor rear 95-97 no cats sym
- Thread starter 2fpower
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Ok took it to the dealership, hooked the pc and I got :
O2S B1 S1 0.050 V
O2S B1 S2 0.055 V
O2FT B1 S1 -0.04 %
O2FT B1 S2 99.15%
I still have the O2 sim connected to the one after the cat. I also hooked another 80 with stock exhaust and cats and no cel on and I got
O2S B1 S1 0.210 V
O2S B1 S2 0.025 V
Any thoughts, ideas , comments , suggestions ??
Thanks in advance.
O2S B1 S1 0.050 V
O2S B1 S2 0.055 V
O2FT B1 S1 -0.04 %
O2FT B1 S2 99.15%
I still have the O2 sim connected to the one after the cat. I also hooked another 80 with stock exhaust and cats and no cel on and I got
O2S B1 S1 0.210 V
O2S B1 S2 0.025 V
Any thoughts, ideas , comments , suggestions ??
Thanks in advance.
What O2 sim? How is it hooked up?
It's very simple. The stock rear O2 with stock cats should bounce between 0V and about .80V every few seconds. If you cut the rear O2 signal wire and install the sim, then the sim replicated that exact signal.
If your rear O2 is BAD, then none of this matters because the heater element of the rear O2 sensor still needs to be working.
Is your rear o2 in the exhaust tract? If you have a simulator you can remove the rear O2 from the exhaust.
If you want to completely remove the rear o2 and throw it in the garbage then you will need a 20ohm 20watt resistor to take the place of the heater inside the rear O2 sensor.
Those static readings don't tell me much.
You need to view a live OBD2 data feed of the rear O2 signal. It should go 0v....three seconds.. .80v.. three seconds... 0v.... three seconds... .80v, and so on.
It should look just like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVRYV0bZWyY
It's very simple. The stock rear O2 with stock cats should bounce between 0V and about .80V every few seconds. If you cut the rear O2 signal wire and install the sim, then the sim replicated that exact signal.
If your rear O2 is BAD, then none of this matters because the heater element of the rear O2 sensor still needs to be working.
Is your rear o2 in the exhaust tract? If you have a simulator you can remove the rear O2 from the exhaust.
If you want to completely remove the rear o2 and throw it in the garbage then you will need a 20ohm 20watt resistor to take the place of the heater inside the rear O2 sensor.
Those static readings don't tell me much.
You need to view a live OBD2 data feed of the rear O2 signal. It should go 0v....three seconds.. .80v.. three seconds... 0v.... three seconds... .80v, and so on.
It should look just like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVRYV0bZWyY
I got the single from 3w.02simulator.com. no resistor.followed their directions to install it ..
I keep geting p420 and I want it cleared, I though my problem was my cat so I figure installing the sim will do it.
I'll check live data.
Would the distance that the sensors are set up from the cat matters ?
Thanks again for your info and assistance .
I keep geting p420 and I want it cleared, I though my problem was my cat so I figure installing the sim will do it.
I'll check live data.
Would the distance that the sensors are set up from the cat matters ?
Thanks again for your info and assistance .
I have no cats and I don't have a code with my sim installed. My rear o2 sensor is ziptied to the frame.
Explain how it is wired up.
I have one of lilevo's rear simulators. I just hooked it up and wanted to make sure everything works cool for a few hundred miles before i do a writeup on it.
So far so good....
So far so good....
- Thread starter
- #48
Bueller? Do we have a full solution yet?
I read in a thread the other day that Saudi rigs did not have downstream cats. Can we learn anything from this? I am assuming that this is a flash update for the computer, not some sort of electronic gismo.....
Thoughts?
I read in a thread the other day that Saudi rigs did not have downstream cats. Can we learn anything from this? I am assuming that this is a flash update for the computer, not some sort of electronic gismo.....
Thoughts?
I posted the solution a few times. Ive been running with my rear o2 SIM for over 6 months with no codes.
I have put over 2,000 hard miles on mine since the install and no cel codes.
I have not installed mine yet, need to do it soon inspection is 3 months away.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using IH8MUD
Sent from my SPH-L710 using IH8MUD
- Thread starter
- #52
Ok, I am jumping onto this boat. I ordered mine from lilevo yesterday. Only trick is that the prior owner took off the rear mounting location and cut out the rear sensor, so I am going to try and add the resistor to replace the rear sensor. lilevo is helping me figure out what to add. Sounds like a 20ohm, 20w resistor, however, I am finding lots of these available.
I will post pictures of the install when it comes in.
I will post pictures of the install when it comes in.
I am so lazy, I have not installed mine yet. O wait I have needy kids. Need to get on that...
Sent from my SPH-L710 using IH8MUD
Sent from my SPH-L710 using IH8MUD
- Thread starter
- #54
X2. guilty as charged.
Installed the module last night, pictures were great.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using IH8MUD
Sent from my SPH-L710 using IH8MUD
I have always used the diy spacer version on vehicles and have never had an issue with it before. Sometimes you have to adjust it a bit in/out to get it just right, but it's never outright not worked for me before.
Do they actually carry a plug n play sim for LC's? (I don't see one listed)
I copied the $3.20 fix on YouTube! Bought a resistor and one other electrical thing I can't remember the name of.... Voila; no more P420!!!