FJ80 TREs on SUA60s???

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Ok, called John Hocker at Sierra Toyota (Cdan doesn't seem to be in yet, but he gives the same discount as John) and you are right, the tie and relay rod assembly has come down in price over the last two years, but only to $487. A complete hysteer setup from 4X4Labs runs 550, and while I love Toyota engineering, those wimpy 60 ends are just not worth that price.

Totally agree. I would have run 4x4Labs steering arms with 80 ends no question if I was running more lift (Luke didn't think that with only an OME lift that the rear rod would clear the oil pan).
 
Do you have the all pro arms as well? Since you like posting pictures so much (:flipoff2:) would you mind posting one of your arms so we can visualize the space you have there? With 5" you are approaching a mild SO setup.
:cheers:

the arms are all pro, the ends are oem 80 series, the rods are ricebuilt.
 
Totally agree. I would have run 4x4Labs steering arms with 80 ends no question if I was running more lift (Luke didn't think that with only an OME lift that the rear rod would clear the oil pan).

The 4X4Labs hysteer arms need a very hefty lift to clear the oil pan since the tie rod is behind the axle. But they also offer some forward facing arms, one in particular that they sell to utilize GM 3/4 ton ends that operate much that same as the OE 60 setup.
I will be calling them again to discuss just why they feel that the double hole passenger arm was not a good solution.
 
The heims hold up very well in exteme conditions. I have used them on my Baja race cars for years without failure. "Seals-it" make a heim seal that makes them last even longer. With the heim seals most inspectors will not even notice they are not stock.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
Unless I missunderstand the thread, the size of the 80 ends is not a problem. I bought the 4+ heavy duty tie rod and relay rod and the 80 end will screw in right in. They will allso fit into the truck on both sides. The problem is finding a way to attach the relay rod and the steering stabilizer as the 80 series has completely different geometery and the two rods do not connect to each other.
 
I guess I could have used the driver side 80 tie rod end without a problem but the other 3 locations wont match up with each other.
 
I will be calling them again to discuss just why they feel that the double hole passenger arm was not a good solution.

If I recall there was a thread on pirate sometime last year about this type of design and the impact on loosening knuckle studs. I'm just a lurker over there so I can't search but if you're a member it might be worth doing some digging.
 
Unless I missunderstand the thread, the size of the 80 ends is not a problem. I bought the 4+ heavy duty tie rod and relay rod and the 80 end will screw in right in. They will allso fit into the truck on both sides. The problem is finding a way to attach the relay rod and the steering stabilizer as the 80 series has completely different geometery and the two rods do not connect to each other.
are you sure they fit? what year cruiser? the taper/diameter on the 80 ends was larger than my 83 60 tre's. the taper/diameter on the draglink did match the 80 ends. also, fj60s have the draglink going into the right side tre, but the 80s don't have that.
 
The taper fit on the driver side of my 84 60. I then threaded it into the new tie rod and started looking for the piece for the pass side with the adapter for the relay rod. Thats when I realised I order this before i did enough research. I also had the folks at maf where I got the 4+ rods at tell me they were the same and I had IPOR tell me the same. The problem what not in it fitting but the fact that the rods are installed in different locations. To factors here. The folks at MAF and IPOR may have misunderstood me and said that the 80 units would screw into the tie rod. 2nd is that I was not sent 80 tie rod and drag link ends, but they came from dan and say what they are on the package. I still have them laying around and I believe my old ends. I will check tonight and see if I can mesure them.
 
Dynosoar said:
The heims hold up very well in exteme conditions. I have used them on my Baja race cars for years without failure. "Seals-it" make a heim seal that makes them last even longer. With the heim seals most inspectors will not even notice they are not stock.
Good to know, I like the look of those seals, and some heims are certainly engineered to a high quality.
Do you know if those seals make the joint fully waterproof? The salt up here will destroy everything.


Moby said:
If I recall there was a thread on pirate sometime last year about this type of design and the impact on loosening knuckle studs. I'm just a lurker over there so I can't search but if you're a member it might be worth doing some digging.
Not a member there either, never got into the pirate thing.


REKCUT The taper fit on the driver side of my 84 60. I then threaded it into the new tie rod and started looking for the piece for the pass side with the adapter for the relay rod. Thats when I realised I order this before i did enough research. I also had the folks at maf where I got the 4+ rods at tell me they were the same and I had IPOR tell me the same. The problem what not in it fitting but the fact that the rods are installed in different locations. To factors here. The folks at MAF and IPOR may have misunderstood me and said that the 80 units would screw into the tie rod. 2nd is that I was not sent 80 tie rod and drag link ends, but they came from dan and say what they are on the package. I still have them laying around and I believe my old ends. I will check tonight and see if I can mesure them.
I did not think the 80 taper would fit into the steering arm either, did you fully assemble it and tighten the nut?
I know that the thread has a different size though, and it would make sense that it threaded into your new tie rod. And, as you mention, even if we do establish that the 80 ends fit in 60 arms, there is still no place to put the realy rod.


I had another conversation with Brian at 4X4Labs today and we talked more about the double hole limitations on the passenger arms. It turns out that most of the issues have to do with not being able to fit the two holes on a hysteer (bent up) arm, once we started talking about a flat, or slightly dropped arms there was a glimmer of hope.
He will be talking it over with Luke and calling me back, let you all know what I find out.
 
Here yah go

Do you have the all pro arms as well? Since you like posting pictures so much (:flipoff2:) would you mind posting one of your arms so we can visualize the space you have there? With 5" you are approaching a mild SO setup.
:cheers:

Will do![/QUOTE]

...and here yah go

ingridshysteer001qb1.jpg

By trapper50cal, shot with DiMAGE S404 at 2008-02-25

ingridshysteer002pe6.jpg

By trapper50cal, shot with DiMAGE S404 at 2008-02-25

ingridshysteer003ib3.jpg

By trapper50cal, shot with DiMAGE S404 at 2008-02-25

ingridshysteer004st4.jpg

By trapper50cal, shot with DiMAGE S404 at 2008-02-25

ingridshysteer005de7.jpg

By trapper50cal, shot with DiMAGE S404 at 2008-02-25

Hope this is what you wanted:beer::beer::beer:
 
The 4X4Labs hysteer arms need a very hefty lift to clear the oil pan since the tie rod is behind the axle. But they also offer some forward facing arms, one in particular that they sell to utilize GM 3/4 ton ends that operate much that same as the OE 60 setup.
I will be calling them again to discuss just why they feel that the double hole passenger arm was not a good solution.

What is wrong with the double hole on the passenger side setup? Is it not as good as the Ackerman steering principal?

Dylan
 
Trapper, i can tell how the two rods connect. its hidden in the picks.
 
What is wrong with the double hole on the passenger side setup? Is it not as good as the Ackerman steering principal?
Huh?
Ackerman is the steering arm angle. Where the drag link attaches to the frt end is irrelevant to that measurement.
Bump steer, OTOH, is definitely effected by drag position.
 
What is wrong with the double hole on the passenger side setup? Is it not as good as the Ackerman steering principal?

Dylan
Dylan, I will answer your quote, with a quote. :flipoff2: Still in the process of trying to figure out what the issues with double holes are.
kevinmrowland said:
I had another conversation with Brian at 4X4Labs today and we talked more about the double hole limitations on the passenger arms. It turns out that most of the issues have to do with not being able to fit the two holes on a hysteer (bent up) arm, once we started talking about a flat, or slightly dropped arms there was a glimmer of hope.
He will be talking it over with Luke and calling me back, let you all know what I find out.

Trapper50cal said:
...and here yah go
Thank you very much, those pics are great.
You are certainly very close to sprung over, but even still, it looks like your tie and relay rods would contact your frame/oil pan before your bump stops met your axle.
You could remedy this by measuring to see if there would be contact, and extending the bump stops.
On my (and the majority of others on here) SU those arms would put the rods way to close to the frame and we dont have enough room to extend the bump stops.
And remember, just because nothing makes contact when an individual wheel is fully stuffed, does not mean that you are good. You need to make sure that nothing will contact when the whole axle is fully stuffed (ie, both springs fully compressed to the bumps). Dont ask me how I know.

REKCUT said:
Trapper, i can tell how the two rods connect. its hidden in the picks.
The passenger arm has two hole on the flat part. All-pros web site shows a pic of just the arms.

FJ40Jim said:
Ackerman is the steering arm angle. Where the drag link attaches to the frt end is irrelevant to that measurement.
Bump steer, OTOH, is definitely effected by drag position.
I'll just go with Jim on this one. :D
Is there a basic theory behind how relay position affects bump steer that you could easily share with us?
 
Hot much of one, but yup.
I last spoke with Brian at 4x4Labs just yesterday, we have been talking about how to make this work and they are prototyping a set of arms for me. They have already made one attempt and it failed to get the right bend, and they are trying a second time now. I will post up any hard info as soon as I get it, but 4x4Labs is taking the challenge seriously and I look forward to what they come up with.
:cheers:
 
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