FJ80 TREs on SUA60s???

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And remember, just because nothing makes contact when an individual wheel is fully stuffed, does not mean that you are good. You need to make sure that nothing will contact when the whole axle is fully stuffed (ie, both springs fully compressed to the bumps). Dont ask me how I know.

While you are telling us the story of the flying cruiser, could you also include the bit about how level it flew with the storage boxes under your front seats filled up?:grinpimp:

:beer::beer:
 
Good news today! Brain at 4x4Labs called to let me know that they got a set of arms to work the way I want. :bounce::bounce::bounce:
I sent them a set of 80 ends today so that we can sort out the tie and relay rod lengths, as soon as that is set they will be in the mail to me for a test fit!
Pics and info as soon as I get them in.
:cheers:
 
What timing! I've been toying with building my own custom steering setup with DOM tubing. If it works out, count me in for a set.
 
Well, s***e - now that I went and replaced my relay rod end with Three Five, I guess I'm kinda waiting for the whole shebang to go up in smoke. Does anyone make hysteer arms that will work with 60 series TRE's, or am I forced to buy new 80 ends? Also, I just bought a brand-new OME steering stabilizer, and bolted that in - I'd like to keep it, since it looks so durned purty under there.... Any options?
 
Not sure what you are going for there, the outcome of this line of thinking was to figure out a way to put the (still manufactured, larger, stronger) OE 80 ends onto a lower height FJ60/62.
The solution I am having made is not even a hy-steer setup, while higher than stock, they are still drop arms.
If you want to run 60 ends you do not need new arms.
If you want hy-steer arms (which you will only need with a SOA or high SU) pretty much any manufacture of the arms can size the holes for 60 ends.
If you are not a toyota bigot, or don't live in the salt belt 4x4Labs has pre-existing kits that utilize GM parts and mimic the functions of on OE 60 setup.
HTHs,
cheers,
Kevin R.
 
The biggest advantage to 4x4 labs is the GM TRE's, IMO, much heavier duty than even the FJ80 ends though all are fine. I would have used all 4x4 labs stuff and they can and do build traditional arms, not the front and rear arms only, including their billet dropped arm for the FJ60 box.

They are all hand made so they could have made the taper hole reversed, and had you insert the TRE from the bottom into the high steer arm and/or they could have left the arms flat. There is nothing wrong with using FZJ80 too, but you are pretty much there already so no reason not to use their GM 1 ton stuff. It is all very high quality, I cannot speak higher of the guys at 4x4 labs personally...

Hope it helps,
Andre
 
Totally agree, there is more than one way to skin this cat.:D
The main thing for me was to run more durable ends that were weathersealed since the salt water on our winter roads gets into the open GM ends and destroys them on a seasonal basis.
With the space constraints, the problem was getting two mount holes on the passenger, forward facing arm since the only available sealed ends do not have a drag link to tie rod contact (GM or Toyota) (GM has 3/4 ton ends that work exactly the same as the OE 60 setup, but no weather seal)
4X4Labs think they have the placement all sorted out, and it will work with the GM ends (just as strong, cheaper, but not as well sealed) or with the OE 80 series ends.
:cheers:
 
4X4Labs think they have the placement all sorted out, and it will work with the GM ends (just as strong, cheaper, but not as well sealed) or with the OE 80 series ends.
:cheers:

That's great news! Are they testing it themselves or are they going to be sending you a set?
 
Very cool... With my 4BT swap the pan interfered with the rear so I have them make a set of front/front arms (that I was ecstatic with with). The ones I had did have a long passenger tie rod end that had the drag link install so similar deal, only one hole required... Here is a pic from deep on the hard drive :) These are the tie rod ends that came with the 4x4labs kit.. Very heavy duty...
SM_Picture 119.webp
SM_Picture 120.webp
 
Sweet, those ends should be the 3/4 ton GM style ones, very stout.
But, the rubber boots on them just sit down over the casting and have no snap ring seal, in our climate the salt water gets in there like nobodies business.
4x4Labs supplies 80 style ends that are sealed like the OE ones, but there is obviously no place for the relay rod, hence the new custom, double forward hole, arms.
To be difficult, I got a set of tie rod ends from Toyota to verify that they could be run, the one mistake I made was ordering the tie and relay ends when I actually needed 2 left and 2 right tie rod ends (the relay rod ends are a different size)
The taper on the 80 ends is actually smaller than the taper on the 60 ends, so 4x4Labs supplies a cone spacer for the pitman arm. The Toyota ends also do not come with jam nuts, but I was able to source those from Marlin @ $1 a piece. The 80 ends that 4x4Labs and Marlin sell are the same brand, come with jam nuts and are good quality, I just wanted to be a Toyota bigot and figure out how to run the OE 80 ends, when these wear out I will try a set of the 4x4Lab ends since they say they are excellent quality and I trust their opinion.

John, they are sending the kit to me for a test, should be here soon!
 
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