fj62 head job checklist (1 Viewer)

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Jun 16, 2019
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Location
LA
Its official, got coolant in the oil. So I'll be diving in here, sending the head off the the machinist and praying for no crack, or a fixable crack.

I'm working down the checklist on stuff to do, and parts list while I'm in here. Here's my list, anyone have any other recommendations?

Head gasket (oem)
valve cover gasket
water outlet assembly gasket
intake and exhaust manifold gasket
exhaust pipe gasket
thermostat and thermostat gasket
water temp sender
oil galley plug fix, head job/valve grind (machinist)

Also taking recommendations for land cruisr specialst head shops/machinists in the los angeles area.
 
  1. One gallon freezer Ziplck bags to store parts
  2. 1" wide blue painter's tape for labeling
  3. Black sharpie pen to write on tape
  4. Note paper
  5. Camera to take lots of pictures of everything as it gets removed
  6. Calipers to measure bolts and take picture of bolt in calipers with note - there's lots of bolts
  7. An engine hoist with load leveler is preferable for pulling the head than trying to gorilla it out - depends on your strength and age.
 
I'm looking at possibly having to do some head work before I'll be able to do a Vortec conversion, so I'll be following this thread. Valve stem seals are possibly letting too much oil blow by, so I might be having to remedy that. Might look into larger 3-angled valves, new seats, obviously new stem seals, and look into a port and polish job. Dunno if there are any shops around my area that'll do that though.
 
oil galley plug fix, head job/valve grind (machinist)

Also taking recommendations for land cruisr specialst head shops/machinists in the los angeles area.

All can be done here:


That's a 2F/3F block on their splash page... MAFs old machine shop and where K&H sends their stuff. Reseda.
 
Gorge at valley hybrids in Stockton is a great place for info and parts. I got a head from him a month or so ago. Great price and great guy
 
If your side cover gasket is leaking, and you have torn down the engine this far, it might be a good time to replace that, as well.
 
hmm maybe i should just order the whole engine overhaul gasket kit, 278 dollars for gaskets, jeez

tpd says they have 04111-61070 in stock here 04111-61070 - Toyota Parts Deal

It’s discontinued. Has been for years.

You have to piece together a 3F-E gasket kit from parts or buy a 3F gasket kit from abroad, s*** can the carby parts and buy the EFI parts from your local Toyota dealer.

Also, throttle body gasket is discontinued so you’ll need to make one.
 
Also, throttle body gasket is discontinued so you’ll need to make one.

Holy crap, glad I still have a couple from my plans to experiment with a throttle body spacer that I 86'd years ago.
 
Step 1: Remove the hood.
:beer:
 
Is the head off? I had coolant in the oil last year and it was just a freeze plug corroded. [The little ones under the rocker cover.]
Never been so happy to see a bad freeze plug.
 
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A few more questions now that the head is off
1. Anyone have any advice on how to clean the block for the new headgasket and how to protect it while the head is off? It is very hot and dry where I live, do I need to be concerned about rust on the block surface? Plenty of gunk in there, piston heads have a little gunk on them too. Cylinder walls look ok on first inspection.
2. Should I crank the engine to inspect all the cylinder walls with the fingernail test? There is some carbon buildup at the top 1/8" of the cylinder walls, I think that is normal though.
3. Anything else I need to do on the block while the head is off?
IMG_2199.jpeg
 
Stick a rag in those exhaust pipes, hand crank engine and drain the oil and leave the drain plug out overnight.
 
I like using a box of fresh single-blade razors and carefully scrapping the Head Gasket remnants. Be careful and try not to get anything in the oil or coolant passages. I usually stuff small bits of rags into the holes where I'm working around. Move the piston in the area you're working to top of cylinder and put some grease or vaseline on the circumference to keep debri from getting in, around the pistons. If you use something like a scotch-brite pad, be careful with the dust. Vacuum around the pistons well, and inside the cavities, best you can.

Chase the threaded holes for the Head Bolts, then blow out the holes with compressed air or brake cleaner.

You'll have to buy a Tap for the head bolt holes as it's an odd size: M13x1.75

Use a OEM HG

Good luck
 

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