Builds fj62 gets a lift

[franklin40]

mirrors showed up at my office today

they seem to be well made. black bracket is metal and feels solid. chrone is decent. time will tell if it lasts but for now they are nicer than anything i’ve ever found at the wrecker. ill post up more details once i get them installed. comes with the mounting rubber gasket and all

 

[franklin40]

so here’s my impression if the mirrors. overall i’m actually quite pleased. they fit perfectly and the motors work flawlessly. they really are a very close match to exactly what came from toyota. the plastic seems to be good quality and the metal base is rigid. there is a small hole in the bottom of the housing which is different than OEM. not sure what it’s for. ill have to take a closer look. maybe a screw access or something. we’ll see how the chrome holds up over time. similar to aftermarket grills i’m guessing but who knows. i put just the passenger side on for now to compare vibration while driving. it actually has noticeably less vibration than the OEM one. that was a nice surprise. the only thing i see that is not quite as good as original is the mirror itself causes a little distortion of the reflection around the edges. that being said it vibrates so much less that the image is still clearer. overall so far a worthwhile buy! and i’ve driven gravel, rough secondary and highway so far today and all roads it vibrates less

 

[franklin40]

down the rabbit hole today. i’m attempting a timing belt change on the 1hdt. there’s not a lot of room here to work.

the “while i’m in there” bug is also going on. going to change my water pump, if i can get it out i’m going to change oil in my clutch fan, i’m also trying to clean things up a bit so i can move my webasto to the other side of my engine compartment so i have room for my air box. then while i have room i’ll try wiring up my tach sensor to my alternator...

wish me luck. i need my truck running before winter.

heres my box of “projects waiting”

 

[franklin40]

well it’s all apart...

i’m going to see if i can get the silicone oil i need tomorrow to do the blue fan mod. there’s a good write up here on mud so i won’t go into details. hope to fix my cooling issues with it and more air through the turbo with a proper air box

cross fingers

I've started this tread in the diesel section to document the process more thoroughly 1hdt timing belt change

 

[franklin40]

fan clutch adjusted. just draining the reservoir and i’ll be putting 15k silicone oil in. hope it helps. one piece of advice if doing this adjustment... make sure your thermometer is working well. mine wasn’t and the window that the adjustment is based on wasnt there!! i was quite confused but figured that when my water started to boil and i was only at 90*F something was wrong. which three other thermometers all reading the same i figured i could trust that info. ill reassemble tonight and start getting things put back together

inside the clutch

 

[franklin40]

clutch fan back together and ready to go in.

one little delay tonight. i had a water pump bolt break off on me while torquing them. thankfully i was able to grab it with a vice grip and unscrew it. there is NO room for a drill in there.

ill have to see if i can get another bolt tomorrow and in inch pound torque wrench. i should have one anyway.

 

[franklin40]

all back together and the webasto has been relocated. that’ll save about 4 feet of heater hose.

i also gave it a bath. it’s going into the stereo shop tomorrow because i have a number of shorts going on so i’ll have it professionally done as i’m tired of pissing around with it.

i also ordered some silicone intercooler connectors. then i’ll be able to put the air box in. the box fits. i just need to reroute some wires. after that i’ll pick away at my “to do” box. i really want to make some ground on my 40 before snow flies

 

[franklin40]

back from stereo shop my speedometer stopped working and my dash is rattling. i’m sure they didn’t reconnect my speedo cable and didn’t tighten the screws enough. there are a couple missing too (roll eyes). so i have to take my dash apart. in the mean time i see my truck is smoking diesel smoke real bad and i can’t generate more than 5 psi of boost. also sounds like a waste gate opening at 4 psi. i got a chance to look into it last night and found a clamp on my intercooler tube has poped off. that’s fixed so hopefully itll stop smoking.

i pulled the dash after and started changing light bulbs for my leds finally. i hope they work. i had to modify the socket and light a little to get the a/c button light changed. i pulled the old bulb (and broke it trying) and had to ream out the housing a little by hand using sequentially larger drill bits until the light fit. i also cut the plastic flange off the bulb so it sits deeper and then rewound the wires around the socket. this is what it turned out to look like

i used the chart from this thread FJ62 LED swap out

while it’s apart i’m going to re epoxy the a/c bezel surround and run a sub woofer rca for some more sound.

i’m going to try to work through my “to do” box this winter

 

[NookShneer]

back from stereo shop my speedometer stopped working and my dash is rattling. i’m sure they didn’t reconnect my speedo cable and didn’t tighten the screws enough. there are a couple missing too (roll eyes). so i have to take my dash apart. in the mean time i see my truck is smoking diesel smoke real bad and i can’t generate more than 5 psi of boost. also sounds like a waste gate opening at 4 psi. i got a chance to look into it last night and found a clamp on my intercooler tube has poped off. that’s fixed so hopefully itll stop smoking.

i pulled the dash after and started changing light bulbs for my leds finally. i hope they work. i had to modify the socket and light a little to get the a/c button light changed. i pulled the old bulb (and broke it trying) and had to ream out the housing a little by hand using sequentially larger drill bits until the light fit. i also cut the plastic flange off the bulb so it sits deeper and then rewound the wires around the socket. this is what it turned out to look like

View attachment 1817441 View attachment 1817442

i used the chart from this thread FJ62 LED swap out

while it’s apart i’m going to re epoxy the a/c bezel surround and run a sub woofer rca for some more sound.

i’m going to try to work through my “to do” box this winter

I went thru this a little bit ago. Check out my build thread, post #128

FitzJ60 1983 FJ60 Build

 

[franklin40]

so far all the leds are working including the a/c one. i’m redoing the a/c bezel while it’s out. jb well to fix the screw holes that are broken. ill do a little grinding and drill the holes once it’s cured

i got all the lights in that i have. i seem to be missing a couple for the signal lights and one for the dash lights. ill see if i can find some locally tomorrow. otherwise i’ll get another order in to superbright

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

so far all the leds are working including the a/c one. i’m redoing the a/c bezel while it’s out. jb well to fix the screw holes that are broken. ill do a little grinding and drill the holes once it’s cured View attachment 1817829

i got all the lights in that i have. i seem to be missing a couple for the signal lights and one for the dash lights. ill see if i can find some locally tomorrow. otherwise i’ll get another order in to superbright

I'll hope to have an AC bezel solution soon....

J

 

[franklin40]

when you do i WILL buy one!!

 

[franklin40]

I'll hope to have an AC bezel solution soon....

J

i was just thinking here... i don’t know what you’ve got planned or how far you are along but if your going with an exact match may i make a suggestion that the bezel be designed with enough space for carling type switches. i had to shave the bottom and top of my switches to get them to fit in the OEM switch spots. just a thought

 

[franklin40]

 

[franklin40]

bezel back together and installed. new lights are nice looking. ill have to see if they drive me nuts at night by being too bright. i also swapped my intercooler pump out for a new one. it was making a terrible noise so hopefully this one will last longer than the last. it’s a good quality bosch one so it should.

i’m still having trouble with my hood release maybe someone could help me with. after the body work was done it won’t pop up when i pull the hood release. the wire is working but it just won’t pop.

i’ve tried reading up on it at the only two things i can find are that that cable is broken (not what’s going on for me) or the bumpers need to be adjusted. are these the bumpers?

the little rubber pad the hood rests on? mine have not changed position since before the body was done as this part wasn’t repainted and they’re really stuck where they are. the hood worked perfectly before hand. any other suggestions for adjustments?

 

[mattressking]

bezel back together and installed. new lights are nice looking. ill have to see if they drive me nuts at night by being too bright. i also swapped my intercooler pump out for a new one. it was making a terrible noise so hopefully this one will last longer than the last. it’s a good quality bosch one so it should.

i’m still having trouble with my hood release maybe someone could help me with. after the body work was done it won’t pop up when i pull the hood release. the wire is working but it just won’t pop.

i’ve tried reading up on it at the only two things i can find are that that cable is broken (not what’s going on for me) or the bumpers need to be adjusted. are these the bumpers?

View attachment 1825144

the little rubber pad the hood rests on? mine have not changed position since before the body was done as this part wasn’t repainted and they’re really stuck where they are. the hood worked perfectly before hand. any other suggestions for adjustments?

Start simple, disconnect cable pull from the latch assembly. Make sure it pulls smooth. Pull the latch assembly off and give it a quick clean and grease the rotating pieces. Then reattach cable and slowly lower hood to watch alignment. Someone routed my hood release cable weirdly, i routed back to stock and that itself made it function much smoother.

 

[franklin40]

thanks for the reply. i’ve done all that though. i did just oil things again today so who knows. maybe that’ll do it

 

[franklin40]

i think i like the led dash lights except my 4WD. it’s too bright. i also need a new light in the 4H switch and one in one of my arb switches. little by little i’ll get it done.

at least my speedometer works again!!

now just have to figure the tach out

 

[FJACS]

Typically hood latch issues are caused by too much upward pressure on the latch. So either one or both of those bumpers need to be wound in, or the latch needs to be raised.

There is a provision in the latch mounting for a slight bit of movement. Loosen the bolts, slide it up and re-tighten.

 

[franklin40]

courtesy of daniel stern lighting. cibie h4 housings. my hellas are cracked and have crap light output now. these will likely be my last halogens though. ill probably just shell out and get the jw speakers next but for now these’ll do the job. i’ve spent too much trying different lights. i should have just gone speaker from the start! maybe theyll last a couple years before these go and maybe the price will drop some more. cross fingers