FJ62 Cold start injector time switch advice

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I am going to replace my Cold start injector time switch and most likely my water temp sensor while I'm at it. Would like some advice on how to do this though, because it looks to me like its connected directly to the coolant supply. How do I take these out without spilling coolant all over the damn place, or will coolant even spill out? any advice would be appreciated thank you guys!
 

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I am going to replace my Cold start injector time switch and most likely my water temp sensor while I'm at it. Would like some advice on how to do this though, because it looks to me like its connected directly to the coolant supply. How do I take these out without spilling coolant all over the damn place, or will coolant even spill out? any advice would be appreciated thank you guys!


I can help here : :)

YES drain your Radatior say only a gallon or so , is needed to remove :

then :

you have all this to consider what all you needs and wants are in the world of the 3FE thermosts housing :











 

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I can help here : :)

YES drain your Radatior say only a gallon or so , is needed to remove :

then :

you have all this to consider what all you needs and wants are in the world of the 3FE thermosts housing :











Thank you for the info. It would make sense to replace what I can while I have access. Would you suggest I reuse the coolant or put new coolant in?
 

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Thank you for the info. It would make sense to replace what I can while I have access. Would you suggest I reuse the coolant or put new coolant in?


if it were me ,

i would drain ALL the old coolant ,

install a FLUSH T KIT at back fire wall

OPEN side block drain

open lower radiator drain

open radiator cap off

and FULL on power flush with HOT water tap off your utility sink faucet threaded nozzle , if you follow me here ?

until ALL out coming water is clear coming out of each of the 3 open ports on the engine and RAD. assy

sounds like alot , but this is EAZY PEEZY and time so very well spent ............

long term engine preservation is the idea here ............
 

red66toy

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I am going to replace my Cold start injector time switch and most likely my water temp sensor while I'm at it. Would like some advice on how to do this though, because it looks to me like its connected directly to the coolant supply. How do I take these out without spilling coolant all over the damn place, or will coolant even spill out? any advice would be appreciated thank you guys!
Get a stubby end wrench and you can do the swap with the thermostat housing on the rig most likely. The part number for the switch, if you already do not have one is 89462-20040 for FJ62s made from 8/88-90. If your FJ62 was made in early 88 then it will likely have a earlier version of the switch (89462-20010) that is unfortunately not made by Toyota anymore. You will need to swap to the newer switch and change the electrical connector to match at the same time. But that is not a hard job.
 
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Get a stubby end wrench and you can do the swap with the thermostat housing on the rig most likely. The part number for the switch, if you already do not have one is 89462-20040 for FJ62s made from 8/88-90. If your FJ62 was made in early 88 then it will likely have a earlier version of the switch (89462-20010) that is unfortunately not made by Toyota anymore. You will need to swap to the newer switch and change the electrical connector to match at the same time. But that is not a hard job.
Would you suggest doing the plug adapter swap or just find a used one with the old connector? I was planning to leave the housing on the engine rather than take it off, as long as i drain the coolant ill have pretty easy access to the plug.
 

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Would you suggest doing the plug adapter swap or just find a used one with the old connector? I was planning to leave the housing on the engine rather than take it off, as long as i drain the coolant ill have pretty easy access to the plug.
For the most reliability, I would go with a new unit and swap to the updated connector to match it. I think you can leave the whole housing on no problem give the location of the temp switch near the top. But, if your sensor tests as good according to the FSM then maybe just leave it be for now if you want.
 
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For the most reliability, I would go with a new unit and swap to the updated connector to match it. I think you can leave the whole housing on no problem give the location of the temp switch near the top. But, if your sensor tests as good according to the FSM then maybe just leave it be for now if you want.
My plan is now to do the conversion to the newer generation or cold start injector time switch, I found a kit from City Racer LLC with the female plug and one on Vintage Teq Parts. Is there any way of knowing which kit is going to be better than the other or more simple. Any video recommendation would also be helpful as i have not been able to find and demonstration of how to do it. Thank you for the help so far! next step is new vacuum lines along with it
 

red66toy

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My plan is now to do the conversion to the newer generation or cold start injector time switch, I found a kit from City Racer LLC with the female plug and one on Vintage Teq Parts. Is there any way of knowing which kit is going to be better than the other or more simple. Any video recommendation would also be helpful as i have not been able to find and demonstration of how to do it. Thank you for the help so far! next step is new vacuum lines along with it
Cool! I think that is the best plan. Might as well just change to the newer style while they are still available new! As for vendor, I believe they are offering the same exact product, A OEM sender unit and matching connector. So it's up to you really. I have a personal preference for shopping with Roger at City Racer. But whoever you go with you will get the right parts so don't worry in that aspect.
As for how to swap the sensor, easiest would be to take the top coolant hose off to get better access to the sender. But, I believe you may be able to swap the sensory with the hose in place by using a stubby end wrench. I'll go check the size shortly and confirm you can get at it with the hose in place.
EDIT: Ok definitely need to take the top hose off to make it easy on yourself. Looks like you will need a 22mm end wrench for the sensor.
 
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Cool! I think that is the best plan. Might as well just change to the newer style while they are still available new! As for vendor, I believe they are offering the same exact product, A OEM sender unit and matching connector. So it's up to you really. I have a personal preference for shopping with Roger at City Racer. But whoever you go with you will get the right parts so don't worry in that aspect.
As for how to swap the sensor, easiest would be to take the top coolant hose off to get better access to the sender. But, I believe you may be able to swap the sensory with the hose in place by using a stubby end wrench. I'll go check the size shortly and confirm you can get at it with the hose in place.
EDIT: Ok definitely need to take the top hose off to make it easy on yourself. Looks like you will need a 22mm end wrench for the sensor.
Awesome that makes my mind a lot more at ease. Im confident in replacing the sensor my main concern is converting the female plug from the old version to the new style, I haven't done a lot of electrical work before if there are any tips or things to look out for.
 

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Awesome that makes my mind a lot more at ease. Im confident in replacing the sensor my main concern is converting the female plug from the old version to the new style, I haven't done a lot of electrical work before if there are any tips or things to look out for.
So splicing in the new sensor should be pretty straight forward. Basically cutting off the old sensor (keeping note what wires go where). Take pics before you do anything in case you forget :). With a FJ62, its worth investing in some decent electrical work tools, like good crimpers for the terminals and wire strippers/cutters. ;) Even having extra wire on hand for repairs, heat shrink tubing for sealing repairs. If you are unsure on any electrical work it may be worth looking at Youtube for some tutorial videos. Its not that bad, you will get it done.
I have been using these crimpers for the past 5 years and have been very happy with them. You can swap out the jaws if you use different terminals as well: Amazon product
 
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So splicing in the new sensor should be pretty straight forward. Basically cutting off the old sensor (keeping note what wires go where). Take pics before you do anything in case you forget :). With a FJ62, its worth investing in some decent electrical work tools, like good crimpers for the terminals and wire strippers/cutters. ;) Even having extra wire on hand for repairs, heat shrink tubing for sealing repairs. If you are unsure on any electrical work it may be worth looking at Youtube for some tutorial videos. Its not that bad, you will get it done.
I have been using these crimpers for the past 5 years and have been very happy with them. You can swap out the jaws if you use different terminals as well: Amazon product
So I have started the process of replacing the sensors and I need to order a water temp switch now since the one I had the wire just slipped out. The cold start timer switch is very stuck and its a weird angle to use a wrench. Should I try heat or keep trying to use PB blaster to loosen the sensor? Also since I'm going to order more parts should I replace the bimetal vacuum switch that goes on the thermostat housing? Not sure how important that one is, it seems fine though from what I can tell.
 

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So I have started the process of replacing the sensors and I need to order a water temp switch now since the one I had the wire just slipped out. The cold start timer switch is very stuck and its a weird angle to use a wrench. Should I try heat or keep trying to use PB blaster to loosen the sensor? Also since I'm going to order more parts should I replace the bimetal vacuum switch that goes on the thermostat housing? Not sure how important that one is, it seems fine though from what I can tell.


NO HEAT !

remove the upper housing

- use a old beach towel and clamp in a vice carefully

- apply moderate increasing force

- it should break loose

- if your sensor is fused and you cant remove it ,

- i have FULLY Restored 3FE Upper Housings TOP SHELF parts ..........

- my opinion :

remove what parts you need to to gain access to remove this thermo switch , when it breaks loose all at once , you can break other parts in the process .........


clear work area is a SAFE and low cost damage work area

you follow me here ?





1629056052448.png


1629056094740.png
 

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So I have started the process of replacing the sensors and I need to order a water temp switch now since the one I had the wire just slipped out. The cold start timer switch is very stuck and its a weird angle to use a wrench. Should I try heat or keep trying to use PB blaster to loosen the sensor? Also since I'm going to order more parts should I replace the bimetal vacuum switch that goes on the thermostat housing? Not sure how important that one is, it seems fine though from what I can tell.
Shoot, that is a bummer its putting up a fight but not too surprising. Yeah I think heat will be bad since you dont want to melt any other sensors on there. I think if you can get the halves apart (make sure to put some anti-seize on the bolts when you put them back together) , then put the upper half on a flat surface or vise (like Matt suggested), you should be able to get a better angle on that top cold start temp sensor. If your thermostat is old this would be a good time to replace that as well, along with the gaskets for it.

Gasket for between the thermostat housing halves: 16341-61030
Thermostat gasket: 90430-43002
Thermostat: 90916-03052

If it really goes sideways and you need a new lower half of the housing. You can get a whole kit (all gaskets, housing and thermostat) from Roger at Cityracer for a good price: OEM Lower Thermostat Housing Kit for '88 to 92 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62 FJ80 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-lower-thermostat-housing-kit-for-88-to-92-toyota-land-cruiser-fj62?_pos=1&_sid=5e96e3fe8&_ss=r

As for the bi-metal sensor, I say test it according to the FSM before deciding if you want to replace it. Maybe while the top half is off you can loosen it at least and put some anti-seize on the threads so you can take it off easier later when its time to replace.
 
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NO HEAT !

remove the upper housing

- use a old beach towel and clamp in a vice carefully

- apply moderate increasing force

- it should break loose

- if your sensor is fused and you cant remove it ,

- i have FULLY Restored 3FE Upper Housings TOP SHELF parts ..........

- my opinion :

remove what parts you need to to gain access to remove this thermo switch , when it breaks loose all at once , you can break other parts in the process .........


clear work area is a SAFE and low cost damage work area

you follow me here ?
Ok that worked really well, I got the senor off which is good. However the more I compare the top of my housing to those pictures, there is a lot of corrosion and pitting of the aluminum on mine. Not sure if it would effect the performance or structure of the housing since some of it is around where the thermostat gasket would go.

1629131221383.jpeg


1629131265204.jpeg
 

ToyotaMatt

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Ok that worked really well, I got the senor off which is good. However the more I compare the top of my housing to those pictures, there is a lot of corrosion and pitting of the aluminum on mine. Not sure if it would effect the performance or structure of the housing since some of it is around where the thermostat gasket would go.

View attachment 2760621

View attachment 2760624


some minor corrosion is expected .........

if it crosses a line of course you should consider replacing it ...........


how is the LOWER housing ?


the 2 flat gasket mating surfaces are most important

then ALL the various HOSE bibs

if the bibs are pitted badly then replace is the matter of course ..........




more photos of your housings would be helpfull ?
 

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So splicing in the new sensor should be pretty straight forward. Basically cutting off the old sensor (keeping note what wires go where). Take pics before you do anything in case you forget :). With a FJ62, its worth investing in some decent electrical work tools, like good crimpers for the terminals and wire strippers/cutters. ;) Even having extra wire on hand for repairs, heat shrink tubing for sealing repairs. If you are unsure on any electrical work it may be worth looking at Youtube for some tutorial videos. Its not that bad, you will get it done.
I have been using these crimpers for the past 5 years and have been very happy with them. You can swap out the jaws if you use different terminals as well: Amazon product
I use the same crimper - works great.
 
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So as I find time I work on it bit by bit. One of the connectors does not have the wires attached to the connector, I'm not sure what to look up to find a video to see how to do it. If any one has advice on that it would be great. It has the wire, connector, and two metal pieces (brackets I want to call them). Messed up the first connector I tried to do and had to restart which is great, the wire slipped out after crimping it down due to not realizing what I had weren't actual crimpers. Wire is now a bit short but not too short which is good. Thanks everyone for the advice so far.
 
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Update: I have all the female connectors on and ready to go, next step is to put the sensors on the housing, thermostat, and then gasket between the upper and lower housing. Is it necessary to put anything on the threads of the sensors before putting them back in the housing? Waiting on a new radiator drain plug since my other one had stripped threads, then put water in and flush it all out. Is it worth it to put some prestone flush and cleaner in with it drive it around then drain and put coolant in, or leave it all open and use a garden hose at the top of the radiator and flush it that way? Thanks every one for the help, has been a "fun" learning experience
 

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