FJ60 Vacuum Passage Bolt For Aisan Carb - Where to Source?

[SuspiciousBagel]

Hey all,

I recently took on the job of rebuilding the carb on my FJ60, and got all the way to the vacuum passage bolt only to realize, it was just a tiny bit stuck, and eventually I managed to strip it to the point that a screw extractor was necessary, which completely mangled the bolt.
Now I'm at the unfortunate dilemma of how to get another one of these, since the part has been discontinued by Toyota. Do any of you have one I could buy off you? is there a known replacement? For future reference, the part number seems to be 2183431140.

Thanks! and Happy Holidays!

 

[OSS]

The only realistic way to get doo dad parts for the carb is to buy another used carb & cannibalize it.

 

[4Cruisers]

In the past, @pardion has had some odds-n-ends carburetor parts, not sure if he might have any for an FJ60 carburetor though.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hey all,

I recently took on the job of rebuilding the carb on my FJ60, and got all the way to the vacuum passage bolt only to realize, it was just a tiny bit stuck, and eventually I managed to strip it to the point that a screw extractor was necessary, which completely mangled the bolt.
Now I'm at the unfortunate dilemma of how to get another one of these, since the part has been discontinued by Toyota. Do any of you have one I could buy off you? is there a known replacement? For future reference, the part number seems to be 2183431140.

Thanks! and Happy Holidays!

please post a photo

i may be able to help here ?

 

[SuspiciousBagel]

please post a photo

i may be able to help here ?

 

[OSS]

Which bolt is it on this drawing?

 

[Spike Strip]

If you can't find a replacement you might consider buying a cheap Chinese clone (ebay, Amz) and scavenge the parts you need from that. Or as stated, an OE parts carburetor.

FWIW, that hallow bolt was also used on many 80s carb'd Toyota vehicles Corolla, Tercel come to mind... You might get lucky and search a local boneyard for a junk carb.

Just an FYI next time, use the proper wide, fat blade screw driver and you won't strip the head. You'll need to grind the edges off an appropriate driver to get it to fit in the hole.

Or, there's always the proper 😜 SST:

OEM Carburetor Driver Set for Any Toyota

Toyota OEM carb adjustment driver set.

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[SuspiciousBagel]

Which bolt is it on this drawing?

21834

If you can't find a replacement you might consider buying a cheap Chinese clone (ebay, Amz) and scavenge the parts you need from that. Or as stated, an OE parts carburetor.

FWIW, that hallow bolt was also used on many 80s carb'd Toyota vehicles Corolla, Tercel come to mind... You might get lucky and search a local boneyard for a junk carb.

Just an FYI next time, use the proper wide, fat blade screw driver and you won't strip the head. You'll need to grind the edges off an appropriate driver to get it to fit in the hole.

Or, there's always the proper 😜 SST

Ah you caught me! I've certainly learned my lesson about SST's. While I was looking for answers I came across a post recommending a bolt from a Corolla, and while it was nearly identical, it didn't account for the flange spacer, and was too short. I'll probably browse some online carb diagrams for a similar one with the right length, and then take a trip to my local pick a part sometime.
Thanks for the advice!

 

[OSS]

21834

I know that bolt well - and it shouldn’t be messed with. Oh well.
There’s lots of parts on the cruiser that can technically be removed but in the real world they shouldn’t be touched. That vacuum passage bolt is one of them.

 

[SuspiciousBagel]

I know that bolt well - and it shouldn’t be messed with. Oh well.
There’s lots of parts on the cruiser that can technically be removed but in the real world they shouldn’t be touched. That vacuum passage bolt is one of them.

Uh oh 😬

I've been looking for similar screws, and have foun a few different places to source vented machine screws, granted they won't be identical, but it'll be better than nothing. One vendor has a nearly identical bolt available, however with a 2mm vent diameter, compared to the OEM 2.5mm. Does ayone have any idea if this difference will significantly impact anything?

The other route I've looked at is sourcing from a different carb like suggested above, and it seems the Toyota Truck from 1982 has a similar spacer between the mounting flange and the body of the carb, and possibly a similar bolt, as shown in the picture below. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge they can lend to the idea that this bolt would/wouldn't work?

Thanks!

 

[SuspiciousBagel]

Alright, I think I'm going to order some of these in M6 x 30mm, which should barely fit the carb, they'll have 3.2mm bores, as compared to the 2.5mm I need, but I'm trying to find some with a 2mm bore that I can carefully ream out with a 2.5mm drill bit.
This'll be a bit of a bodge, but I guess we will see.

Is there any potential damage an O/S vacuum passage could cause? I'm still unclear on the actual purpose of this passageway.

 

[OSS]

McMaster Carr has a big selection of vented bolts with different vent hole sizes too. Check it out.

Bolts, Vented, M6

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[SuspiciousBagel]

Good call - I had checked but didn't think 30mm was long enough, luckily it barely is.
Ordered two, I'll see how well drilling the hole out works and update later.

 

[SuspiciousBagel]

Post-Op - everything seems great, hole size is identical, and she threads in great to the carb.
I'll have to wait until I get my engine back together to see how it actually runs, but that may be a bit as I'm now in the midst of a move.

On another note, I was taking my dizzy apart and following the 'poor-man's recurve' linked here. After I got the dizzy apart, I noticed the shaft bearing didn't spin smoothly, and was audibly grinding a little bit, so I ordered a replacement bearing after looking at some posts here. I set to work on disassembly, and got the gear off, but cannot for the life of me get the shaft out of the dizzy body. I've tried it all, heat, penetrating oil, mallet, but to no avail, it's really stuck in there.

Has anyone had anything similar to this happen? Everywhere I've looked online just acted like it slipped out as soon as the gear was off, certainly not my experience.
Am I doing something wrong? This now 40 year old truck has just a few problems

 

[Spike Strip]

You ordered the Socket-Head vented bolt at 30 mm ?

 

[SuspiciousBagel]

Yep, here’s the link to the specific P/N https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=93235A345

 

[4Cruisers]

On another note, I was taking my dizzy apart and following the 'poor-man's recurve' linked here. After I got the dizzy apart, I noticed the shaft bearing didn't spin smoothly, and was audibly grinding a little bit, so I ordered a replacement bearing after looking at some posts here. I set to work on disassembly, and got the gear off, but cannot for the life of me get the shaft out of the dizzy body. I've tried it all, heat, penetrating oil, mallet, but to no avail, it's really stuck in there.

Has anyone had anything similar to this happen? Everywhere I've looked online just acted like it slipped out as soon as the gear was off, certainly not my experience.
Am I doing something wrong? This now 40 year old truck has just a few problems

The outer bearing race must be "frozen" inside the distributor housing. In my experience it comes out with the shaft - the bearing has to be pressed or driven off the shaft, so the shaft won't just slide out.

BTW, where were you able to source a replacement bearing? I have quite a few new OEM bearings harvested from non-Land Cruiser Toyota distributors.

 

[SuspiciousBagel]

Good call, I'll have to put a bit more elbow grease into it, or take it to the machine shop.

As for the bearing I read some forum posts and they said the Koyo 62012RS or the NSK 6201DU worked, I ordered the former.
More info here: Seized distributor bearing left me stranded =( - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/seized-distributor-bearing-left-me-stranded.1195106/

 

[Spike Strip]

 

[LandCruisersLuvMud]

Post-Op - everything seems great, hole size is identical, and she threads in great to the carb.
I'll have to wait until I get my engine back together to see how it actually runs, but that may be a bit as I'm now in the midst of a move.

On another note, I was taking my dizzy apart and following the 'poor-man's recurve' linked here. After I got the dizzy apart, I noticed the shaft bearing didn't spin smoothly, and was audibly grinding a little bit, so I ordered a replacement bearing after looking at some posts here. I set to work on disassembly, and got the gear off, but cannot for the life of me get the shaft out of the dizzy body. I've tried it all, heat, penetrating oil, mallet, but to no avail, it's really stuck in there.

Has anyone had anything similar to this happen? Everywhere I've looked online just acted like it slipped out as soon as the gear was off, certainly not my experience.
Am I doing something wrong? This now 40 year old truck has just a few problems

Did you ever get her put back together? I was working on mine today and snapped the dang bolt so need a replacement.