FJ60 Heat issues. (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Aug 6, 2023
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4
Messages
26
Location
Roanoke VA
Mud,
Hey guys I am having some issues with my heat working. The blowers work but the heat comes out luke warm. Worked last time i check it in August or September but seems to have stopped working now. Any ideas on how to diagnose or fix this would be greatly appreciated before I take it to someone to get looked at.
Thanks
 
Having same/similar issue. Just dropped at shop for some work and that’s on the list. Will advise.
 
The core on a 60 has inlets & outlets on top. It will collect sediment over time. I had
the same issue and what works is pulling the core and cleaning it. You could try as
powerful a cleaning agent as possible to start, any really good radiator flush. Ultimately
I pulled and cleaned mine, and it’s a 12HT and it’s HOT! Nice thing about
the 60 it’s easy to do this on. Also consider using ‘shop vac’ blowing pressure to flush
the heaters lines individually so when you run the radiator flush you makes sure you get it all
flushed completely. I have a Prestone cap right at heater valve makes a good entry point
and a ‘high’ point as well to let out any kind of air.
 
is the engine getting up to temp?
is the valve opening?
is the rear heater working?
 
I have a 3B motor. My rear heater works a treat so I know it’s getting up to temp. That’s all I know since my tstat gauge on dash is caput. Not sure about the OP.
 
is the engine getting up to temp?
is the valve opening?
is the rear heater working?
Ya I drove it across town and got it up to temp and still nothing. I havnt checked the rear heat but I suspect it's the same but will update that. I'm not sure what valve you are referring. I'm not particularly experienced with these things just got it a few months ago.
 
Me too! Then noticed I was 1 1/2 gallons low on coolant. Then noticed a drip from the passenger foot well. Then an hour later a pin hole developed on the hose near the throttle linkage spraying "Mountain Dew" all over my brake booster. Well dang.
 
Ya I drove it across town and got it up to temp and still nothing. I havnt checked the rear heat but I suspect it's the same but will update that. I'm not sure what valve you are referring. I'm not particularly experienced with these things just got it a few months ago.

the valve is controlled by the cable when moved hot to cold.
it is located on the firewall just to the passenger side of the engine, above the starter up high close to the hood.

how is the air flow out of the vents? good flow or just a breeze?
if the rear is hot and the front isn't, the heater core could be plugged up on the outside, not letting air flow thru it.
 
Me too! Then noticed I was 1 1/2 gallons low on coolant. Then noticed a drip from the passenger foot well. Then an hour later a pin hole developed on the hose near the throttle linkage spraying "Mountain Dew" all over my brake booster. Well dang.
Owning a TLC is awesome. I was driving through Tacoma one time and I sorta noticed the engine was idling weird at a stoplight. a few seconds later I see the temp gauge was in the red. Turns out the lower coolant hose had popped off and I was driving a dry engine... O'reileys got about $35 of my money and I spent 20 minutes fixing my engine in public, then I drove home. Good times.
edit: these were pre-inflation dollars.
 
I revel in how reliable the 60 is, but getting my heater core re-cored and new hoses wasn't what I was hoping for. But it beats the alternatives. Heater hoses (Gates) were $207 at O'Reilly's.
 
the valve is controlled by the cable when moved hot to cold.
it is located on the firewall just to the passenger side of the engine, above the starter up high close to the hood.

how is the air flow out of the vents? good flow or just a breeze?
if the rear is hot and the front isn't, the heater core could be plugged up on the outside, not letting air flow thru it.
I'll give the rear heat and the valve a look in the am. The vents have very good flow. Thanks for all the help everyone
 
the valve is controlled by the cable when moved hot to cold.
it is located on the firewall just to the passenger side of the engine, above the starter up high close to the hood.

how is the air flow out of the vents? good flow or just a breeze?
if the rear is hot and the front isn't, the heater core could be plugged up on the outside, not letting air flow thru it.
So I drove it across town today got it up to temp. I got no air on the rear much less heat. The valve seems to be stuck in this position even if I move it from hot to cold. I'm assuming that means I have a bad heater vavle or the cable that moves it is broken.
 
the pull cable can be disconnected from the valve.
the fulcrom lever moves a vertical rod
pull up on the rod and see if it moves,
up should be open
 
the pull cable can be disconnected from the valve.
the fulcrom lever moves a vertical rod
pull up on the rod and see if it moves,
up should be open
Looks like my cable is disconnected. I opened the valve manually and got it up to temp and got lots of flow but luke warm heat still. I am assuming burping the radiator and trying to flush the heater core are probably the next steps.
 
If you have a fj60 that hasn't had the entire cooling system refurbished, then it's time to do so. If you stick with OEM equipment you will likely get another 30+ years. Each part has a service life. Tackle it as a group so you can rest easy when you need it most.
I'm praying. My core isn't leaking.
 
so the ac cable is working correctly. Changed the thermostat out and the o rings and still no change. Looks like its a heater core flush and if no dice a replacement. Also found out I have to replace my parking brake cable and temp sending unit. the grind never stops lol
 
Backflushing the heater core will probably take care of it. This can be done without removing the heater core from the car.
 
Backflushing the heater core will probably take care of it. This can be done without removing the heater core from the car.
Any DYI’s out there or just as simple as unplugging from the firewall and sticking a hose in it? Maybe a chemical?
 

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