FJ40 Resto... Again

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But being so old Gene you already knew that.:rolleyes:

:D Yep. I agree with everything you said. I used to wheel with these in the dry CA desert and they did great. I have no idea why they stop selling them. They would be on all 3 Cruisers if I could get them. The front two on the LV are brand new but sat in the sun for 10 years. The backs still have good tread but have the same sun years. Hopefully when it's time to drive it there's another option.
 
Very cool. Wondered what ever happend to you and your wagon.. love the 40. Dash is awesome.

Do you have a build thread on 60?

Yeah I do, but I'm not sure how to paste it from my phone. It's in the 60 section under the title: My First Post in the "60" Section - '84 FJ60 Daily Driver

The LV wagon thread should be active again in about a month.
 
Sweet. Excited to look over them. ;)
Yeah I do, but I'm not sure how to paste it from my phone. It's in the 60 section under the title: My First Post in the "60" Section - '84 FJ60 Daily Driver

The LV wagon thread should be active again in about a month.
 
For those of you fortunate enough to be living in the United States, Happy 4th of July. Here's a few pics from today. All that's left is some new paint on the windshield frame and a new top and she's pretty much done.
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Curious about whats looks to be vents near your hood hold down latches?

That would be a FJ25 air intake. On the 25 I believe they're found on the driver side only. Since I'm running a V8, I added one to the other apron.
 
Such a cool different truck. Love it
 
Is that some sort of reinforcement under windshield hold brackets? Very neatly done.

I had to figure out a way to marry a 1960 windshield to a 1975 dash. The '75 windshield lock down is very different from the FJ25. I needed to make a plate that would cover the holes in the dash that we're left from removing the original hardware, and mount the 25 dash lock down on top of it. Then I had to make one for the part on the windshield so that the spacing would be the same and also so it would look uniform. The shape and bevel on the plates were just to make it look like maybe it was a factory design. With every modification, I've tried to fool the non-cruiserhead. I'll drive into a Jeep shop and they'll ask, "What year?" I tell them 1960 & '75. "Which parts?" And I just say, "Can you tell me?" (I say it in a very friendly tone and with a smile)
 
Thanks serenity.

I spoke with the guys at Galpin Auto Sports today about custom making a full bikini top for the 40. They said it would help if I could make s pattern and snap some pics so they could get an idea of what I wanted them to make. They could also give me a very close quote and save me a trip out. So off to Target this morning for a full size flat bed sheet. Here's what I'm thinking. A very full bikini top made of canvas that comes down on the sides and offers lots of mid day shade, but is still open on 3 sides. The pattern was quick and a little rough, but you get the idea. I'm sending them the pics tonight.
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Very cool! The top doesn't hang down too far on the sides so that it inhibits vision?

Curious about the side mounted spare, any reason for that over a swing out rear carrier?
 
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Here is an idea you might consider for the door jambs on your top... I used two factory hardtop upper door jambs attached to the windshield frame and the home made b pillars. In the winter I can install hard doors and use a clear shower curtain attached to the B pillar to hold in the heat and keep out cold rain.
HTH,
Will
(sorry for the poor picture- the velcro holding the canvas to the jamb came loose)
 
After I was done I jumped in and took it on the street and the vision was good. I only stand 5'6" so maybe that has something to do with it. :D. The side mounted spare was stock on the 25 but on the other side of the vehicle. I like not having to deal with it when dropping the tailgate, and it hasn't been an issue when wheeling.
 
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After I was done I jumped in and took it on the street and the vision was good
I was going to mention the possible loss of side visibility/head clearance on entry/exit due to the lowered side door ways but if your good then go with it. It might create more flapping of the sides at higher road speeds (possible since you have a V8 in that truck). How is your visibility out of the rear view mirror with the lowered rear edge of the top? I have always wanted to lower the rear view mirror in my truck to see out past the lift hatch window in the back when the hard top is on it.
 
View attachment 1491180Here is an idea you might consider for the door jambs on your top... I used two factory hardtop upper door jambs attached to the windshield frame and the home made b pillars. In the winter I can install hard doors and use a clear shower curtain attached to the B pillar to hold in the heat and keep out cold rain.
HTH,
Will
(sorry for the poor picture- the velcro holding the canvas to the jamb came loose)

That's a really good idea. Did you make the rear bow and and the connection bows yourself? Very cool looking rig! This 40 I kind of set up for the sunny CA weather (about 9 months out of the year - sorry east coasters :D ). I went bare bones this time around and even pulled the heater and the stereo. I kept the rear heater just in case I change my mind down the road. When the rain starts up, I'll drive the 60.
 
Too much canvas forward of the b pillar IMO. I find that even the common width flaps too much for my liking and made mine narrower than most.

Of course since you have the skilz to have made yourself a sleeping platform on top of the 40 at one time, you should be able to get some kind of outrigger between the windshield frame and the rollbar to cut down on the flap. Maybe even sew in a loop for the outrigger.
 
Well the boys here were right, I've been cutting the sides and back openings up 1" at a time and each time the improved visibility was worth losing a little shade. I'm up 3"-4" higher than yesterday's pics.

Mark, I thought that might be an issue so I talked with the guys at Galpin about sewing a 5/16" polymer rod under the canvas at the edge of the area over the doors. I'm not sure if it'll work but I'd really like to leave that stretch bowless.
 
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Well the boys on here were right, I've been cutting the sides and back openings up 1" at a time and each time the improved visibility was worth losing a little shade. I'm up 3"-4" higher than yesterday's pics.

Mark, I thought that might be an issue so I talked with the guys at Galpin about sewing a 5/16" polymer rod under the canvas at the edge of the area over the doors. I'm not sure if it'll work but I'd really like to leave that stretch bowless.

Just throwing out ideas.
You could run something semi-transparent that would give some visibility and shade. Or some 50% shade cloth that can be clipped on when needed and stowed away when not?
 
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