1Fine40
Rust Buster
What kind of bulb/led is that?? Very nice for getting a tailgaters attention!!
Cheers!
Builds Fj40 Daily and Wheeler build
- Thread starter White Stripe
- Start date
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What kind of bulb/led is that?? Very nice for getting a tailgaters attention!!
Cheers!
- Thread starter
- #522
Here is what it is called:
Syneticusa 1157 Red LED Strobe Flashing Blinking Brake Tail Light/Parking Bulbs
- Thread starter
- #523
Messed with the ac to get it colder. Charged it to 2.00 lbs and that was too much. Went with 1.85 lbs and this is what I got for a vent temp in the shop at about 75ish degrees and motor idle at 1200. Dont think I'll get any better. Also have been messing with the ECU tune. During heavy load/heavy throttle I messed with cranking up the timing curve. Seems better. I feel like their is a sweet spot that I'm dancing around but not quite their. Pretty tough to find without a dyno. Going on a road trip so see how she does.
- Thread starter
- #524
Went 4wheeling. I drove the 40 a lot on the highway to get their and meet friends. Took my friends in their stock xterra. Those things sit really low. At one point my buddy got tired of jumping in and out to spot so he just stood in the cooler/gas can rack as I drove and spotted as we went. It was a big challenge to get them through even the bypasses. But we never pulled out a strap and they only got a few little dings on the rockers. The nerf bars were removed by the rocks.
- Thread starter
- #525
- Thread starter
- #526
Start cutting at 6.5" up. Have 1/8" clearance currently.
Have 3/4" clearance currently. Trim 3" section .50". Or lower rear bump stops to reduce flex by 1.5".
Trim spring clam for drag link clearance.
Trim spring clam for drag link clearance.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #527
Adding new front bump stops.
i love your truck
cool videos!!
cool videos!!
Sweet!
- Thread starter
- #531
Thanks! The front axle is 3" narrower than the rear, however it blends in with the fj40 body since the body is wider in the back. So so far nobody has noticed or at least told me they noticed.
- Thread starter
- #532
Upper bracket is just almost finished. Hopefully this is strong enough. Going to brace the front of the can and run it. The front plate wraps under and up on the inside of the frame a bit. Then I just have to make the axle pad which should be easy. Thought about going to the back side of the shock initially, but working around the fender mount was too tough so I went to the front.
What did you use for the can? It looks thin. Also be sure to have something inside of it so it does not warp, then you will not be able to get the bump stop in it.
- Thread starter
- #534
It is a bit thin, I will wrap exterior half with a second layer to beef it up is what I was thinking. You think I should beef up the inner half as well? Thanks for the warning about warping.
.120 dom is what most are made off. They take a lot of force, or at least racing! I am sure for what you are doing it will be less stressful. The shape of the gussets look good. Do you have a way to pinch them in place? or what holds them in?
- Thread starter
- #536
The bump stops I got are threaded bodies and held in place by lock nuts. So not the pinch style.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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- 16,351
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
I thought you widened your front axle though?
- Thread starter
- #539
Yes it's been widened 2 5/8". So the front is like 60 1/2" or so wide and rear is 63". So the front is about 2.5" narrower give or take 1/4" if I recall.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 581
- Messages
- 16,351
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
And it doesn't track funny with that setup? Ideally you want the front wider then the rear.
