FJ 40 Headlight switch Question

[JonRiley56]

Hi,

The headlight switch on my 1974 FJ is not working. I have confirmed that there is power coming to the switch through the harness. I also took the switch apart and cleaned everything as best I could. The truck has had an adventurous life in a ranch in Oklahoma..... There was mud in the seat backs...

It has the unusual 84112-60010 switch that had the rheostat in it and a lighted knob. Can I go to the 84112-60020 ? They are much easier to find.

Thanks

jon

 

[devo]

If you’re daring enough you could address your issue with @ToyotaMatt . He know light switches!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hi,

The headlight switch on my 1974 FJ is not working. I have confirmed that there is power coming to the switch through the harness. I also took the switch apart and cleaned everything as best I could. The truck has had an adventurous life in a ranch in Oklahoma..... There was mud in the seat backs...

It has the unusual 84112-60010 switch that had the rheostat in it and a lighted knob. Can I go to the 84112-60020 ? They are much easier to find.

Thanks

jon

If you’re daring enough you could address your issue with @ToyotaMatt . He know light switches!

the short answer is YES , however you must reconfigure ALL 4 out of 5 of the color coded tracer stripe wire feeding your 60010 switch as we speak right now , only the small RED w / Black tracer stripe stays the same as is ............
i can help you with this if you like , i should have both EWD wire harness pictorial diagrams , easy to understand photos ,,,,fyi

let me know if i can help ....
matt
.
- 84112-60020 is 1st tech pic here below ...fyi
.

.

.


.

 

[JonRiley56]

I could definitely use the help !! I have not been able to find the other switch anywhere.

jon

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I could definitely use the help !! I have not been able to find the other switch anywhere.

jon

ok kool

i have to ask on this topic :

- is your current Factory 6pin email harness side connector plug intact and in SOLID GOOD shape as we speak ?

or ..

NO , at some level ?

- also , the small RED and WHITE color coded wires feeding the little golg spring loaded twist bulb socket base that enters the rear of your 84112-60010 as it came from the factory ,?


if unsure on these 2 key points , please post detailed and several good clear crisp up-close and personal tech. photos below ....


-
lastly , can you post a " same " details tech photo below , of the small tiny clear poly-carbonite fiber-optic rod that sticks out of the end where your illuminated KNOB twist's on and off ....


this here below tech. example image :

​

.

 

[JonRiley56]

ok kool

i have to ask on this topic :

- is your current Factory 6pin email harness side connector plug intact and in SOLID GOOD shape as we speak ?

or ..

NO , at some level ?

- also , the small RED and WHITE color coded wires feeding the little golg spring loaded twist bulb socket base that enters the rear of your 84112-60010 as it came from the factory ,?


if unsure on these 2 key points , please post detailed and several good clear crisp up-close and personal tech. photos below ....


-
lastly , can you post a " same " details tech photo below , of the small tiny clear poly-carbonite fiber-optic rod that sticks out of the end where your illuminated KNOB twist's on and off ....


this here below tech. example image :

​

.

View attachment 3552415​

they appear to be in good shape

 

[ToyotaMatt]

they appear to be in good shape

well ..........?


without being able to , see confirm and verify this with my own eyes it's a bit hard for me to post the FSM and other nifty Paper Print Media Resources

i have below for you ?

there are too many factors at play using , and subsequent , re-using a 1974 60010 existing harness side connector plug set , and then turning around and reconfiguring it as you relocate all 4 of the main 2 different fused circuits primary color coded tracer stripe wies ....

and , ..

simply jump into assuming and a bit of unnecessary speculating here with your 1974 FJ40 , neither of which will help you here achieve your primary 60020 retrofit goals ........ i try hard to never do either of these above be what if i guess wrong ? then this does not help me help you at end of the day ....

how come you did not post the needed tech photos below ?

- see if you can do this as i to the time to explain in detail , now you know the WHY , on this important topic ,,,


there are 2 other same in kind Vintage TOYOTA illuminated Pull Switches too , that perhaps are at your unicorn hunter-ing mission finger tips right now as we speak ,

- see what i am trying to explain below .....

- 14030

- 12030


THIS IS THE WAY .......



.

 

[AlexMoore91]

well ..........?


without being able to , see confirm and verify this with my own eyes it's a bit hard for me to post the FSM and other nifty Paper Print Media Resources

i have below for you ?

there are too many factors at play using , and subsequent , re-using a 1974 60010 existing harness side connector plug set , and then turning around and reconfiguring it as you relocate all 4 of the main 2 different fused circuits primary color coded tracer stripe wies ....

and , ..

simply jump into assuming and a bit of unnecessary speculating here with your 1974 FJ40 , neither of which will help you here achieve your primary 60020 retrofit goals ........ i try hard to never do either of these above be what if i guess wrong ? then this does not help me help you at end of the day ....

how come you did not post the needed tech photos below ?

- see if you can do this as i to the time to explain in detail , now you know the WHY , on this important topic ,,,


there are 2 other same in kind Vintage TOYOTA illuminated Pull Switches too , that perhaps are at your unicorn hunter-ing mission finger tips right now as we speak ,

- see what i am trying to explain below .....

- 14030

- 12030


THIS IS THE WAY .......



.

Not trying to Hijack this thread - but is there a way to service the 1974 60010 light switch for repair? Mine is somewhat working but a bit glitchy. Fully pulled all the way out, my headlights work, but ONLY the headlights, half pull of the switch results in the marker, tail lights, interior, and license plate working BUT they dont work on the fully pulled out switch. I need all of those to be on when the switch if fully pulled out. If there is a forum on this already I apologize!
Thank you for any input!

 

[CruiserInProgress]

Your issue sounds like a dirty contact inside the switch.

If it's a internal contact issue, you can try to clean the contacts:

- with the swich unplugged, operate the switch (pull out and in quite a few times),
- you can also spray some contact cleaner inside the switch (again without power) and operate it quite a few times,
- if needed, you can open the switch and manually clean things up in there, maybe with vinegar, then add dielectric grease to the contact surfaces before reassembly.

I had to do this on my 79 headlight switch that had tabs that needed to be bent to open it up. A word of caution, some tiny parts in there may need careful attention to how it's supposed to be reassembled, so open it slowly and carefully.

Good luck!

 

[charliemeyer007]

I have rebuilt almost every switch on my 72 that I got in 82. Its not all that hard if you you are good with fiddley small stuff and pay careful attention because things can have sides as in it will only fit one way even tho it looks "almost" exactly like the other one. Forcing things usually doesn't work out well

Take switch out of rig. Get a box that will hold the switch and your hands. Cover the top with clear plastic and cut holes in the side for your hands. Good work light maybe with magnification will help. Pry the tabs open just enough to take switch apart. Good chance stuff will fly - that's why covered box, making a vid while doing it could help you put it back together. Clean the contacts, flush out all the crap, perhaps stretch/replace the springs, lightly lube stuff - dielectric grease. Use epoxy putty to fix any burnt away material. Put all the stuff back together. Press tabs back in place carefully. After being open/closed several times the tabs break off. I just wrap the case in thread several times across the broken tabs and then paint it with nail polish to secure the thread in place.

Go to the wrecking yard - pull some switches from old cars (70's) to practice on. I have seen youtube vids on reworking switches but nothing prepares you for the feel of a spring loaded ball detent like actually doing it.

 

[pb4ugo]

Not trying to Hijack this thread - but is there a way to service the 1974 60010 light switch for repair? Mine is somewhat working but a bit glitchy. Fully pulled all the way out, my headlights work, but ONLY the headlights, half pull of the switch results in the marker, tail lights, interior, and license plate working BUT they dont work on the fully pulled out switch. I need all of those to be on when the switch if fully pulled out. If there is a forum on this already I apologize!
Thank you for any input!

Toyotamatt is no longer on this site.

If your running lights work on the 1st notch and not on the full pull, the problem is in the switch and not the wiring. As @CruiserInProgress mentioned, it's likely dirty contacts. I usually cycle the switch a bunch of times. Others have taken the switch apart and cleaned things up inside. If you take it apart, be careful there maybe some springs inside.

 

[Pighead]

is there a way to service the 1974 60010 light switch for repair?

I took the lightswitch in my '74 Pig apart, though I'm not sure that it's the original switch. It's really, really simple to take apart and clean the contacts.

 

[Living in the Past]

When I only had my 68 I rewired the plug to work with a 78 light switch. I replaced the knoks on most then switches to make a more modern 40 LOL. That was back in the 1980s. Basic knowledge of how the switch works finding another switch to work is not that hard.

Toyotamatt is no longer on this site.

But he is still in business. He is a one man operation. Probably not your choice if you looking over an overnight delivery. But would be hard pressed to find someone more knowledgeable on FJ40 controls. If you are not sure how to reach him you can DM for his website address.

 

[JohnnyC]

Mine 74’ looks just like @Pighead switch… easy take appart and as said you could just try to shoot contact cleaner in it and see if it works then … I had done both

 

[Living in the Past]

Mine 74’ looks just like @Pighead switch… easy take appart and as said you could just try to shoot contact cleaner in it and see if it works then … I had done both

You mean after this long you just don't dig out a box of switches and find one that matches?

Not sure in the original post years ago the 74 to 76 model model were that hard to find? A lot of 74s were sold in this country. The 73 model is a one year only switch.

 

[JohnnyC]

I only have one spare switch and it’s a 70’ I think … not everyone have big stashes of parts LOL … I may have to start my stash in a month or so

 

[AlexMoore91]

Pulled apart the switch, cleaned the contacts and we are good to go fellas! Thanks for the advice, it was super easy!