Fitting 37"s on my FJ80 (lots of Pictures)

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maybe we dont drive the same!?


[/QUOTE]



Driving!? Lol! looks more like flying! Is your flying license current? :hillbilly:
 
Inner Fender Work

So, I am breaking for an early lunch but here is what I got done. I filled the sheet metal up with some scrap sheet metal laying around. Did some grinding and slapped seam sealer over the whole thing. I have to quit around 3 today to get some stuff togethor for super bowl party but I am planning on getting both fenders back on for a final fitment and some body work. So here goes:

The first shot shows the sheet metal welded in. Inner fender is super rigid now:
Land%20Cruiser%20FJ80%2037%20Inch%20Tires%20(24).jpg


Here is the backside of the inner fender well. Just a note to anyone attempting to follow this I was able to get away with 5 cuts on the drivers side. So what you see here is 7 filled cuts (go with 5 its easier and less time consuming!):whoops:
Land%20Cruiser%20FJ80%2037%20Inch%20Tires%20(26).jpg


This is the drivers side bottom of inner fender well: I primed the bare metal and applied seam sealer to both sides... Its drying while I get my lunch on. I wanted to show this side so you could see how easy it is to get away with 5 cuts of inner fender:
Land%20Cruiser%20FJ80%2037%20Inch%20Tires%20(27).jpg
 
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maybe we dont drive the same!? Just saying :D





Driving!? Lol! looks more like flying! Is your flying license current? :hillbilly:[/QUOTE]

Yeah, the landing sucked :idea:
 
Nothing that bypasses can't cure.

Embarking down a similar path soon, and reason for OT question.

Is it not easier to cut the inner fender back then add new to the outer fender lip?

Maybe. All i can say is i am 5-6 hours into this project and I am happy with the progress so far. I also was able to use scrap sheet metal for the filler I had laying around the shop. I suck at sheet metal work so i tried to make things a :banana: job. Also i knew that mark @ metaltech did his this way in 05 and it has held up.

Basically, i didnt have to reinvent the wheel and solve any issues that would arise from trying something new.

I think what you prposing would work... Probably just as well!
 
Nothing that bypasses can't cure.

Embarking down a similar path soon, and reason for OT question.

Is it not easier to cut the inner fender back then add new to the outer fender lip?

Do you have example Chris? This thread is intriguing.

Here's the line the outer edge of my tires rubbed. Seems the outer fender lip was never an issue.

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Was looking for pics before posting the question, but new IPhone is on pic 566 or 2,997 after restoring two days ago. Still downloading them.

Pretty much, cutting a line at the highest point of the inner fender lines up with the outer along this line.


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There was a recent thread by an Icelandic member that sectioned out the inner fender, and added new and figured if that could be done, it'd be possible to do just the outer half.

After thinking about it, we could roll liner on the bottom and top of inner fender, probably conceal any piece milling.

Got to do something.



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image-2816357066.webp
image-1669867156.webp
 
Stopping for the weekend.

Ok so here is where I am stopping for the weekend. Both fenders have been bondo'd, sanded, and primed. Next week, hopefully Monday i will be rolling some bedliner from the curved line down. All the way back to the rear quarter panel. When i say curved line pretty much where the primer stops

I may be cutting rear fender wells also. I know there is severe limitations here but we shall see... so no bedliner around here until i decide what to do.

I am going from the body line down black bed liner. At least thats the plan until someone points out something i havent thought of yet. :hillbilly:

Anyways here is where things stand currently. Fenders installed waiting for bed liner...

Land%20Cruiser%20FJ80%2037%20Inch%20Tires%20(33).jpg


Here is a plug for the Shop - A+ Japanese Auto Repair - San Carlos, CA
Land%20Cruiser%20FJ80%2037%20Inch%20Tires%20(35).jpg


Another view. I am happy with the lines i cut. Somewhat factory looking...

Land%20Cruiser%20FJ80%2037%20Inch%20Tires%20(36).jpg


Another...

Land%20Cruiser%20FJ80%2037%20Inch%20Tires%20(37).jpg
 
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Nice work, I dig it. What's the secret to welding thin gauge metal?

For me the trick is lowest setting, medium wire feed, and moving to a "cooler section" when u burn through. Not to tricky once the welder is dialed in. Btw. I am runnuing stargon gas which does help reduce splatter & temp a little meaning u can work in the same spot longer. I just jumped around a lot as spots got hot.

Almost forgot... On the backside of the work piece "sheet" i was holding a damp rag against the metal which kept me from burnin through.
 
Damn dude that looks really good, I may go this route as I like the way lcg rigs look, are you running a aftermarket lift or stock? I wanna go with old man emu stock height.

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
Damn dude that looks really good, I may go this route as I like the way lcg rigs look, are you running a aftermarket lift or stock? I wanna go with old man emu stock height.

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G

Thanks. Can't wait to get it wrapped next week. Typing is a bi$&h on my phone. Check out the first post I made on this thread my lift specs are all in there. (Page 1, post 1)
 
Cool ill do that, looking forward to see what you come up with. Im in the same boat as you on the phone keyboard s*** sucks. I use the ih8mud app cause im a loser like that. What size wire you using? ihave a powcon 200 sm its 220v with .035 wire may be overkill for body work even on lowest setting.

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G
 
Cool ill do that, looking forward to see what you come up with. Im in the same boat as you on the phone keyboard s*** sucks. I use the ih8mud app cause im a loser like that. What size wire you using? ihave a powcon 200 sm its 220v with .035 wire may be overkill for body work even on lowest setting.

Sent from my busted to s*** EVO4G

I used 110v Lincoln. .025 wire with stargon.
 
Hit me up when you roll into Pismo for testing. I live here and want to see your work firsthand. :beer:

We will be down there on feb 23rd. 5-7 80series, two fj40's, a hummer, and a couple rovers. The more the merrier. We will be there that Saturday & Sunday. Bring :beer: & something to throw on the grill around 4pm saturday. We will have the bonfire going around then. The more the merrier.
 
So is the inner fender welded to the outer fender now or is it bolted so the outer fender could be removed again if need be? Do you have a pic of that junction?
 
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Dry Seam Sealer - Pictures after drying over the weekend.

So is the inner fender welded to the outer fender now or is it bolted so the outer fender could be removed again if need be? Do you have a pic of that junction?

To answer your question the fender is removeable in about 15-20 minutes. :meh:

This is how its secured:

1. It still has the bolts in the front behind the turn signal light securing it and at the lower rear (kick panel area)

2. It still has all of the fender bolts at the hood lip (top of fender still hold the fender in.

3. The actual lip I welded on the outer fender has good tension on the inner fender lip without being attached (The inner fender feels like a spring pushing down on the outer lip). I feel this would have been enough but I added three pop rivets to secure it. (to remove drill out) Also, I did not want bolts hanging down/visible or rubbable <--- if thats a word

4. Lastly, I applied copious amounts of seam sealer at this junction. It looks like shiznit in the following picture. I expect this morning to sand it slightly. (This is sealer is easily separated with heat and a razor blade if the fender needs to be removed)

5. After I smooth everything out with the final sanding I will be applying bedliner (rough) to the fenders on the body and into the fender inner well.

So, to get the fenders off it takes about 15-20 minutes once the cowl is removed at the base of the windshield.

I know this looks ugly but I will be smoothing out the seam sealer. This is ugly enough to where I almost dont want to post pictures but to make it useful to anyone doing this I will post a pic below, then another shot when sanded, and another after bedlined. Keep in mind this is taken inches from the junction.

Inner passanger (pop riveted & seam sealed) You can see one of the sealed rivets in the top center.
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