First time pig owner/LS swap.

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So I have the same camaro type pan. Not sure why for the lack of clearance but still have an issue either way. I am however curious if the SOA is superior thana lift for handling and flex?
 
I’m with @onemanarmy , I can’t see why anyone would need to go SOA for an LS. Dimensionally, aren’t they nearly the same as a SBC? How many SBC’s went into 55’s without much lift (or any at all)? A ton of them.

I am however curious if the SOA is superior thana lift for handling and flex?

That’s a whole other subject!
Depends on how you plan on using the Cruiser, how big of tires you want, how well your driving skills are with a tall, narrow vehicle. I’ve seen several SOA pigs that were setup very well and work(ed) as intended. I’ve seen some that were sketchy at best.

35” tires are minimum.

With those sliders in place of shackles, you can get some sweet pics with the front tire being lifted with a forklift 🤭
 
I know Ron did a 1 inch body lift and that helped him get the engine higher. My engine sits lower than his. I wonder if you are just too low? I thought the hood was going to be an issue but I have plenty of room and the older hood that is lower than the 2f hood. I have the vortex intake. I kept that because it has the best low end other than the Trailblazer SS intake of probably similar height.
 
My crank pulley is 9 inches from the bottom cross member. The bottom of my crank pulley is level with the frame rails at that position. I might have a little more rake on my motor to get in the Trans tunnel. I decided to not worry about the level because I figured that was more of an issue with carburetors and if you are worried about pinion angles.
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The LS may fit without SOA but for sure you'll need a low profile oil pan. I recall the real issue is will it clear the driveshaft. You'll have to study if the low profile pan will clear the axle since some designs have the oil sump in front.

The 55 flange almost hit the oil pan and I worried about contact if there was any lateral movement or articulation. I notched my oil pan to make sure I have adequate clearance. The 60series axles give it a bit more room that stock 55 axles didn't. I used high steer rear linkage that creates also some clearance challenge with the oil pan. I can't recall what drove me that route.

see post #20, 30 and 47.
 
SO after final some more sliding and moving i ended up with decent clearance. I just received my correct TC mounts so hopefully will be welding everything up this weekend. I will snap some photos then. The tunnel will need to be cut a bit for the Ranger overdrive stick and the TC stick. Other than that it looks like a great fit.
On a side note I have decided to NOT go with the TerminatorX kit and I'm going the Microsquirt route. My buddy has done several and the price is too good to not try. However now I will need a DBC throttle body but also wont have to mount a DBW pedal so I think its a win.
 
@NikP @Megadoomer either of you have photos of pass cylinder head to parking brake bracket clearance?
I don't have that particular bracket. I have 60 series axles so I used a different parking brake setup. I did leave the stock 4wheel drive engagement linkage in place in that area.

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So the driveline is all tacked in. Im actually pretty happy with the clearance so far. I will snap some photos after its all welded up. Right now I'm trying to figure out steering as I think no matter what header I try, it will not clear the stock box. Looks like I'm going P.S. right away. Should have the Microsquirt any day and ill be doing fuel plumbing as soon as my fittings come in!
 
I figured I needed to figure something out about the radiator and the 5.3 plumbing. Can’t see a way around using a radiator with pass inlet and outlet. I figured maybe I’d try and modify my factory 55 radiator before spending money on a new one. Not thinking about solder I used SIB rod. I had some scrap copper to patch the neck hole. Just need to fix a hole I burned through and re solder some pin holes

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I'm with Rush. I am all for diy on things you have but keep in mind that radiator only needed to cool 100 hp. You are going to triple that. But in true toyota fashion, maybe they are over built.
 
I'm with Rush. I am all for diy on things you have but keep in mind that radiator only needed to cool 100 hp. You are going to triple that. But in true toyota fashion, maybe they are over built.
Ya and after I spent all the time doing it I realized I need some sort of steam vent plumbing to the radiator. It was sort of an exercise in can I. I’m sure it will seal but not sure if it’s enough cooling. More than likely will buy a new one.
 
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