First time pig owner/LS swap.

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Not much has happened since last week. I got the Fbod oil pan in and it seems to clear the windage tray. II ordered a bunch of stuff today. t Thanks @Megadoomer for the reference list! It came in handy. Also ordered the Brian Tooley truck Norris cam. They recommended to NOT change the springs or lifters at this time. We will see. I will wait to order headers until I get the engine stabbed back in with the conversion mounts.
 
Just want to write a mini update.
So I have the engine mostly buttoned up. new gaskets all around except for some lone straggler gaskets I didn't see to install. new water pump, new sensors, etc. I chose to skip the cam and lifters due to not wanting to fool with head gaskets, and the potential for needing head re-surfacing. I will cross that bridge and swap the cam later.

SO I am a bit frustrated with advance adapters and their packaging. I believe I have all the correct parts from the kit. However, man is is some sort of cluster **** as far as the way it was packaged and delivered. Nothing is damaged but NOTHING is labeled. I have three bags of bags of bolts. I know for some it might be obvious what is what but its a mixed up mess. I've had two calls and two different techs helping me sort the bolts, washers, spacers, studs, screws, etc. Has anyone used the LC-->gen3 kit?
I have (weirdly due to the number of manual cars I've owned) never done a clutch install. I have tried to reference centerforce's website but cannot determine if I need to install dowels that were not included in the kit. Also if I should use flat or split washers on the pressure plate bolts( also as far as I can tell not provided). There is a new pilot bearing and what I believe to be a pilot bushing adapter sleeve. From what I can gather i need to press them together and then press them into the new gm flywheel. This is supposed to be a special offset flywheel and I am also guessing adapter due to the input shafts likely being different. I will confirm tomorrow.
Hopefully I can get the clutch/trans installed this weekend and start to stab the drivetrain back in the chassis.

Any pointers as far as temporary fitment of everything during mockup? My plan so far is to bolt up the trans and Tcase to engine, use the picker to lower it back in, and maybe block it up in place to square up and bolt in the mounts prior to welding?? Are FJ40 frame rails c channel or boxed? They included plating to box in a frame and I'm just curious
 
I built a stand to put everything together on. Was still a pain to get the tranny, er, I mean, transmission, stabbed, but it was doable.
It might not be necessary, but I’m all about projects for my projects.

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silveradofab said:
There is a new pilot bearing and what I believe to be a pilot bushing adapter sleeve. From what I can gather i need to press them together and then press them into the new gm flywheel. This is supposed to be a special offset flywheel and I am also guessing adapter due to the input shafts likely being different
Click to expand...
I don't remember a two piece pilot bearing. Are you using the H55 transmission?
 
From what you're saying about all the bolts and plates, etc., it sounds like a different setup than what I bought. I had bought ARP bolts for the flywheel, but don't remember what type washers I used.
 
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, too. I don't understand the two piece pilot bearing thing.

www.speedwaymotors.com

ARP 330-2802 Chevy Gen III/LS Flywheel Bolts

Flywheel bolts play an important role in the performance and safety of race cars and street machines alike. That’s why the fastener experts at ARP develop special bolts that are far superior to OEM hardware. Forged from aerospace alloy and heat-treated prior to thread rolling and machining. Fits...
www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com
 
Funny, I just went to the shop to start bolting on the new water pump with new ARP bolts, opened the package and flanged head bolts and a full set of washers fell out. 🤷‍♂️I'd keep calling Advanced Adapters for direction.
 
Blastservices said:
Whew! For all that work and money couldnt you just get the stock drivetrain freshened up? 😂 someone had to say it. There must be a lot of worn out trucks and bad tune ups out there. Mine pulls down the highway to work everyday I drive it fine at 70 with a 3 spd and larger tires.
Click to expand...
Well gollllly this fella sure seemed to have some insight here. 😂
 
scrapdaddy said:
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, too. I don't understand the two piece pilot bearing thing.

www.speedwaymotors.com

ARP 330-2802 Chevy Gen III/LS Flywheel Bolts

Flywheel bolts play an important role in the performance and safety of race cars and street machines alike. That’s why the fastener experts at ARP develop special bolts that are far superior to OEM hardware. Forged from aerospace alloy and heat-treated prior to thread rolling and machining. Fits...
www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com
Click to expand...
here are the two pieces I am assuming go together

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Blastservices said:
Well gollllly this fella sure seemed to have some insight here. 😂
Click to expand...
Well unfortunately I ran into a wall getting the original engine to run correctly. $1500 in labor between several shops couldn't get it right. Add the fact that I want A/C AND enough power to travel at highway speed reasonably is why I threw in the towel and decided to do the swap. I could never achieve my end goals with a well sorted 2f let alone the stock f engine that was in the truck.
 
Looooong time without making any progress until this weekend. Its crazy how long its taking me to get this piggy going again. Yesterday we got the driveway cleaned up and the pig nose first into the garage. I was able to slightly modify my lift to get the whole unit(5.3/ranger O.D./4speed/TC into the chassis. One issue I'm noticing is oil pan to diff housing/driveshaft clearance. I installed the fbody oil pan to help with this issue. I'm thinking S.O.A. would solve this? What is everyone else's clearance like? So i do have about 4-6'' from the back of the intake to the firewall but don't really want to loose that much of that. I'm also using the modified driveshafts from the parts truck i got the ranger from. it was SBC swapped so i figured then would be nearly identical to what lengths I needed. I'm using the advanced adapters engine mount kit. Anyone have experience with these? I'm assuming the engine brackets are supposed to mount above the frame rail and the chassis mount on the inside. So sort of flush? If not i think I'd need to cut the engine brackets down to fit inside the frame rails. This is my first LS swap and so far its going ok. Just don't want to make any critical mistakes i will need to change if i can avoid it.

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That oil pan problem is a big one. I'm running an FJ60 axle, which is wider and helps somewhat. Have you thought about cutting out the oil pan right there? Going SOA will solve that issue, if you want it sitting higher.
 
I would not mind it sitting a bit higher. I was a surprised about the lack of clearance and maybe that will change when i weld up the engine mounts. I have the front and rear driveshafts installed as a reference front and back. now to try and put in the transfercase mount and see where is sits after that.
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