First FJ40 build in a long time (1 Viewer)

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The first maze of parts hanging and ready for paint first thing in the morning. Next up will be the cygnus white parts, top cap and grill bezel. Then the tub and front fenders and hood and all the small stuff and...

Man have I been waiting for these next days for a while.
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The first maze of parts hanging and ready for paint first thing in the morning. Next up will be the cygnus white parts, top cap and grill bezel. Then the tub and front fenders and hood and all the small stuff and... Man have I been waiting for these next days for a while.

Color me jealous.
 
Good news, bad news...

Good news is the first batch of painting is done and in the basement. The hardtop sides and lentils, the bib, the windshield frame, and all four doors are done. Minor buffing of a couple of places after assembly. 'Glass cap and the front bezel get painted tomorrow so I can start building the top and doors real soon. The tub and everything else will go in by weeks end. WooHoo! In a couple of weeks it'll be like Lego time! The old, Tab A into Slot B.......

Bad news is I've pulled the engine to find and confirm suspicions that both previous owners were idiots. Long story short is 5 and 6 were full of water, the oil pan after draining had what appeared to be a chemically decomposed animal in the bottom. Just oil and water mixed but nastier than any version I've ever seen. I guess because the engine hasn't turned over in 9 years. So far it looks like a new cam, good honing of the cylinders, the jury is out as far as the valves and seats go. I think the pistons will clean up.
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YES!!! Proof that Cruisers are tough inside and out. The cylinder head cleaned right up. Hard seats are cleaned up. Valves are cleaned up. I'll post a pic when I can. I forgot to take a picture this morning when I saw it. Head should be ready in a few days, block right after that.
 
secretsquirrel said:
That looks like chicken fat in the bottom of that pan.

That's the secret ingredient they use in Tennessee-sort of like a zinc additive.
 
Yeah, it comes by the pound...
 
Okay. The jury is back and the verdict is:
Cylinder head is near perfect with only .008 of the deck to flatten it. The cylinders won't clean up with just a hone so boring over either .020 or .030 over and new pistons and rings with a new cam and lifters. SHould be a great engine for a really nice truck when the dust settles. Pictures next week.
 
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Okay. The jury is back and the verdict is: Cylinder head is near perfect with only .008 of the beck to flatten it. The cylinders won't clean up with just a hone so boring over either .020 or .030 over and new pistons and rings with a new cam and lifters. SHould be a great engine for a really nice truck when the dust settles. Pictures next week.

That's gonna cost someone a pretty penny.
 
Got the cylinder head back today. Man what a difference. Gasket kit is on the way to get ready for the re-build. Block should be ready soon...
The cap and bezel look great in white now but those stinkin' doors are giving me a challenge. The cranks sure make a lot of noise in these but I don't remember that in my old Cruiser at all. Any suggestions?
The new cold nights and off and on rain are making the paint schedule a little iffy right now so I'm not sure when the tub, hood, fenders and the small parts will get painted. Hopefully this week. Once they get painted the final build should be close behind. I've got almost everything here. The first batch for the power steering conversion are due tomorrow. Pump, hoses, and gear box from Northland Cruisers. Thanks Kina...
Oh. Has anyone used Classic Tube for brake lines? I got the whole kit and at least half the pieces don't fit. I mean they REALLY don't fit. They look like some distant cousin of one that might fit but not without major re bending. I talked to them and will send pictures tomorrow to them and they say they will make it right. I sure hope so.
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I am really enjoying watching your attention to detail!
-Sean
 
Had same problem with my brake lines. Ended up sending them the old ones along with the new ones that did not match up. They fixed everything & sent them back. Perfect match now on all lines. Customer service was great.
 
(trying this for the third time...)

Here is the first door going together showing the first large group of zinc plated hardware. All the original hardware including bolts, door latch, and window crank scissors were all plated. Most of it will be covered but that didn't cost any more to do.
Sorry the shots aren't very good. I took them before I clipped on the door panel late in my office where the lighting is bad.
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The only problem I have is the crank making some noise. (the passenger side is noisier.) and the felt track needs spreading to allow the window to roll up and down more easily.
 
Rainman said:
The only problem I have is the crank making some noise. (the passenger side is noisier.) and the felt track needs spreading to allow the window to roll up and down more easily.

Spray pure silicon lube in the mechanism before buttoning up
 
What I tried was lithium grease and just a tad of WD to let it run and capillary it's way in. Even took channel locks and pried the spring open and shot canned air into it to push it in too. Still not perfect. I guess I'll try the silicone now.
 
Rainman said:
What I tried was lithium grease and just a tad of WD to let it run and capillary it's way in. Even took channel locks and pried the spring open and shot canned air into it to push it in too. Still not perfect. I guess I'll try the silicone now.

I never tried lithium grease in there (I use it on my latches). However I've always used silicon on my window winders to good effect. My 4 was a fire truck so the driver windows were worn well beyond their miles. Silicon quieted mine right up.
 
Mostly done anyway. Here are the rear doors completed minus the small access door that's waiting for paint.
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