Failed Front Diff, CV joint, steering rack? (1 Viewer)

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Got the LC stuck today, after getting pulled out some strange clunking noises came from the front end. It went away in neutral and we were able to coast down the mountain into cell coverage to call a tow truck. When in gear it's a very violent shudder and clunk when and steering input is applied. When I'm neutral the steering was a bit heavy and pulled with the road.

Waiting for the tow truck...
 
Being a '99 with a 2 pinion, I am going to guess your diff blew.
 
If you coasted in neutral and didn't hear anything then it's hard for me to believe it's your front diff. It's spinning when you coast in neutral. But maybe I'm wrong. I blew my front diff and the only way to get the diff out of the equation to drive the truck was to remove my front prop shaft and remove my splined drive flanges, have them machined smooth. I guessing a busted diff. Just weird you didn't hear anything while coasting.
 
The coasting in neutral is odd, but at least it let you get down the trail a ways.

Sorry it happened like that bro,

Keep us updated as I would think it's transfer case related but doesn't quite relate to your symptoms.
 
I'll go with stripped drive flange on a front hub. Although less likely than broken diff gears, it seems to me a stripped hub could explain the symptoms.
 
Dealership quoted $6100 for a new front diff and maybe something with an axle. Not happening.... if anyone has a good shop in Las Vegas I'm looking for additional opinions. It's our third vehicle so I might just do it myself, as a coworker told me, make myself a better man. If I disconnect the axles and drive shaft and drive it around 2WD for a few miles am I being a dumb ass or is it okay to avoid another tow?
 
CV axles and front drive shaft removed with diff lock ON can get you on 2WD (RWD mode).

It is easy to swap the front diff. You should be able to locate a 4 pinion front diff online for around $400. Get it adjusted by a reputed shop. I saw a thread here or at T4R.org that a toyota diff professional in Arizona, and he can do a great job setting the proper backlash etc.,
 
- pull the driveshaft, and flanges lock CDL and drive in 2wd. This is listed in the 100 Series FAQ.

You can pull the front diff cover off and inspect the pinion, spider and ring gear. I recall reading a post from @paflytyer that the weak link in the 98/99 diff's is the spider, which usually explodes and bits and pcs of it will be found in the bottom of the diff.

If it is the diff, get an ARB Harrop Elocker (Eaton) front locker, a new ring gear if needed and drive on. You'll spend around $2k for an installed front locker- which in your model truck will be a good upgrade.
 
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If you engage the CDL, does it stop? Have you pulled off your front grease caps to see if the CV axle is spinning when you put it in gear (with CDL disengage)? That's a real quick and easy check.

That would confirm this:
I'll go with stripped drive flange on a front hub. Although less likely than broken diff gears, it seems to me a stripped hub could explain the symptoms.
 
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I posted a very clear write up on this. I drove for 6 months in 2wd with only my front driveshaft removed and my flanges machined smooth. Fun to drive actually when you put all 230 horses to the rear axle only. Then save up $$ until you can take it to SLEE and have them swap an ARB air locker diff and carrier into it. That's what I did and now I'm triple locked and couldn't be happier. My bill with him was something like $3600 and that included replacing my ball joints.
 
Ended up replacing the front diff internals. If you're a vegas local I highly recommend Dan's Drivline.

Considered an upgrade to lockers or updating the gearing (I'm on 33s) but wussed out. Trying to keep it close to stock for resale soon.
 
Ended up replacing the front diff internals. If you're a vegas local I highly recommend Dan's Drivline.

Considered an upgrade to lockers or updating the gearing (I'm on 33s) but wussed out. Trying to keep it close to stock for resale soon.
Did you source used parts or new OEM?
 

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