Factory Toyota or Aftermarket Drive Shafts?

Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
356
Location
Middle of the Desert
I am looking for guidance on factory vs aftermarket complete drive shafts. I am making a bit more power now with the LS3 and would like opinions on the strength of factory vs aftermarket as well. I plan to run my stock front and rear as spares on long trips and purchase a set of brand new complete front and rear shafts. Any recommendations for custom shafts are welcome. I have run a Tom Woods DC prior to my LS swap and it worked perfectly and did what it's supposed to on a lifted cruiser. Where is the best place to purchase new or aftermarket shafts? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you

Regards,
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
356
Location
Middle of the Desert
I talked to Curtis from Tatton.

He says he could build a front DC 1310 CV measuring 4" so it might clear my 6l80E oil pan. He would also build a rear with smaller diameter but .120 wall thickness. The price is $350 per shaft complete. I have read that the 1350 series is almost 40% stronger than the 1310. Anyone think this is a good way to go? All input and advice appreciated.
 
Joined
Jan 25, 2011
Messages
438
Location
OC , S CA
I'd vote OEM since it's beefier than aftermarket- Tatton built a double cardan shaft for me during the group buy but I can see that the tube diameter for OEM is larger than Tatton.
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
356
Location
Middle of the Desert
I'd vote OEM since it's beefier than aftermarket- Tatton built a double cardan shaft for me during the group buy but I can see that the tube diameter for OEM is larger than Tatton.
Good info. Curtis says the 1310 is a smaller diameter but he does a thicker wall. I think the factory is .083 wall and he uses a .120 wall thickness. I just priced out a factory rear shaft at toyota and they are $395.00. I need a DC for the front so the 1310 may be the only one that will clear my pan. I might stick to stock oem on the rear though.
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
356
Location
Middle of the Desert
I am going to stick with the factory rear prop shaft. I don't have an option on the front if I want to run the DC I have to go to a smaller diameter to clear the trans pan or I have to clearance the pan.:frown:

I am running PT 4wd now so it's probably not a big deal. I get vibrations above 40 mph now with the factory shaft up front as opposed to my DC shaft from Tom Woods when I ran the stock motor and trans and no vibs. I guess I won't be using 4wd that often and most likely when I do it will be slow technical stuff off road or in snow and ice which 40 mph might be fast enough. Might stick with factory front as well but I need to think through it. Thanks for the info so far guys.
 
Last edited:

LFD2037

TEXAS LEXUS!
Joined
Oct 22, 2013
Messages
4,015
Location
Wax., TEXAS
For what it's worth I think the Toyota unjoints are stronger than the 1310's.
Unlikely. The 1350 has more mass in every spot compared to a 1310. I've seen some 1350's get absolutely hammered & hold up. I've got an OEM Yota 1310 w/<40K that's already s*** the bed.
 
Top Bottom