Factory Toyota or Aftermarket Drive Shafts? (1 Viewer)

[azcrackshot]

I am looking for guidance on factory vs aftermarket complete drive shafts. I am making a bit more power now with the LS3 and would like opinions on the strength of factory vs aftermarket as well. I plan to run my stock front and rear as spares on long trips and purchase a set of brand new complete front and rear shafts. Any recommendations for custom shafts are welcome. I have run a Tom Woods DC prior to my LS swap and it worked perfectly and did what it's supposed to on a lifted cruiser. Where is the best place to purchase new or aftermarket shafts? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you

Regards,

 

[excessive]

I think the stock rear driveshaft is pretty beefy, the front one is probably the weaker link.

 

[Jason hansen]

Tatons drive shaft in Salt Lake City.

 

[azcrackshot]

Tatons drive shaft in Salt Lake City.

Thanks for that. I am going to call and speak to Curtis.

 

[azcrackshot]

I talked to Curtis from Tatton.

He says he could build a front DC 1310 CV measuring 4" so it might clear my 6l80E oil pan. He would also build a rear with smaller diameter but .120 wall thickness. The price is $350 per shaft complete. I have read that the 1350 series is almost 40% stronger than the 1310. Anyone think this is a good way to go? All input and advice appreciated.

 

[bmw635]

I'd vote OEM since it's beefier than aftermarket- Tatton built a double cardan shaft for me during the group buy but I can see that the tube diameter for OEM is larger than Tatton.

 

[azcrackshot]

I'd vote OEM since it's beefier than aftermarket- Tatton built a double cardan shaft for me during the group buy but I can see that the tube diameter for OEM is larger than Tatton.

Good info. Curtis says the 1310 is a smaller diameter but he does a thicker wall. I think the factory is .083 wall and he uses a .120 wall thickness. I just priced out a factory rear shaft at toyota and they are $395.00. I need a DC for the front so the 1310 may be the only one that will clear my pan. I might stick to stock oem on the rear though.

 

[scottryana]

For what it's worth I think the Toyota unjoints are stronger than the 1310's.

 

[azcrackshot]

I am going to stick with the factory rear prop shaft. I don't have an option on the front if I want to run the DC I have to go to a smaller diameter to clear the trans pan or I have to clearance the pan.

I am running PT 4wd now so it's probably not a big deal. I get vibrations above 40 mph now with the factory shaft up front as opposed to my DC shaft from Tom Woods when I ran the stock motor and trans and no vibs. I guess I won't be using 4wd that often and most likely when I do it will be slow technical stuff off road or in snow and ice which 40 mph might be fast enough. Might stick with factory front as well but I need to think through it. Thanks for the info so far guys.

 

[LFD2037]

For what it's worth I think the Toyota unjoints are stronger than the 1310's.

Unlikely. The 1350 has more mass in every spot compared to a 1310. I've seen some 1350's get absolutely hammered & hold up. I've got an OEM Yota 1310 w/<40K that's already s*** the bed.