F135 really runs like p..p

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Trying to sort the LV which is a 1966. Rebuilt the carb more times than I should have thinking it was the problem.. it has the old school man a fre header/gm distributor/ Rochester 2g carb.

I removed the gm/delco distributor today and put in a rebuilt Toyota one. Newer(good wires from my fj60) new plugs.

It idles great and if you barely give it gas or feather it you can get it to rev… if you just apply throttle then it sputters sometimes backfires and wants to die unless you let off the gas(makes it hard to drive)
Thinking carb is crap(I know but want to just get it driving ok) the pic of carb is before rebuild…

If I put my hand over the carb it will rev up better which tells me it’s running lean?

Sprayed carb cleaner around intake gaskets and no change.. kind of stumped and looking for other stuff I might be missing

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Current pic of the carb/intake, also the plugs are all covered in easy to wipe off carbon.
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Is it possible you have the Toyota distributor set for high altitude instead of normal?
 
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Yes good shot of fuel from pump. Maybe wrong jets as it was from Montana(altitude) I’m at sea level? Stumped as plugs look like and smells like it’s running rich… but you can cup your hand over the carb intake and get it to rev up better and not sputter out..?
 
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Is it possible you have the Toyota distributor set for high altitude instead of normal?
How do I check that? I just double checked the timing and have tries it at 7 and roughly 10 degrees and same symptoms
 

middlecalf

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So when you put your hand over a properly functioning carb - which you shouldn’t actually do but old school guys do it all the time - your hand should immediately be covered with fuel/vapor - that’s why you should use a piece of cardboard instead of your hand, just in case there‘s an unattended ignition - and the engine should nearly immediately die, or at least stumble really bad. And if you quickly remove your hand, uh piece of cardboard I mean 😂, the engine should return to normal idle fairly quickly. The fact that yours actually idles up (”revs up better”) with the inlet covered indicates a rich condition because it’s pulling more fuel than needed at idle probably because of a vacuum leak somewhere. And when you throttle up it’s now getting too much fuel. Do you have a choke? If so, what’s the behavior with some choke applied?
 
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What are you using as a vacuum source for your distributor advance?
Have not hooked up the vacuum yet as old one did not have it and old carb does not have a place for it… might just ditch the man a fre old school stuff and look for a stock intake and carb . I th No it’s a carb issue but had false hopes the new distributor would solve it. Nothing like stock Asian and Toyota! Mr T knee what he was doing. Was trying to keep “Fritz”’s vision alive from 1975 when he did the mods…
 
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So when you put your hand over a properly functioning carb - which you shouldn’t actually do but old school guys do it all the time - your hand should immediately be covered with fuel/vapor - that’s why you should use a piece of cardboard instead of your hand, just in case there‘s an unattended ignition - and the engine should nearly immediately die, or at least stumble really bad. And if you quickly remove your hand, uh piece of cardboard I mean 😂, the engine should return to normal idle fairly quickly. The fact that yours actually idles up (”revs up better”) with the inlet covered indicates a rich condition because it’s pulling more fuel than needed at idle probably because of a vacuum leak somewhere. And when you throttle up it’s now getting too much fuel. Do you have a choke? If so, what’s the behavior with some choke applied?
When I cover the carb and snap the throttle it’s 90 times better and does not die. I even disconnected and plugged the vacuum line to the shift mechanism. Looked for cracks and leaks but did not see any…. Maybe the underside of intake gasket has a leak and the fan air won’t let it get there. I could disconnect the fan for a min and try again with carb cleaner around intake and carb
 
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Keep looking for vacuum leak with the carb cleaner, manifold, base of carb, vacuum lines...I had a crack in my manifold, very hard to see.
 
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How do I check that? I just double checked the timing and have tries it at 7 and roughly 10 degrees and same symptoms

Unless I'm mistaken, the knob under the plastic cap is supposed to be turned toward the block before setting your timing. When driving at altitude, you turn the knob away from the block or toward the "A".

adjuster.jpg
 
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Unless I'm mistaken, the knob under the plastic cap is supposed to be turned toward the block before setting your timing. When driving at altitude, you turn the knob away from the block or toward the "A".

View attachment 3080204
I’ll check that and keep looking for a vacuum leak.. thanks for the ideas
 

Downey

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Your Rochester 2G is one of the carbs that has the float bowl open directly to the atmosphere, i.e. air does not have to go through the air filter to enter the float bowl. See rubber boot on top your float bowl (your 8th photo above), every time you give throttle that boot lifts up, then sand/mud/snow/filth (what ever is laying on top your carb) falls directly into the float bowl. Sooooo, that is not an off road carburetor, and since you are lucky enough to have the 2 barrel intake manifold you can install almost any other option you want. I happen to offer a fuel injection adapter for that engine, and also a dual carburetor set up for that engine in case your interest floated that way.
 
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Understood! Just want to get it to run and drive ok then if I keep the orig motor then I’ll explore those options. I got a crappy 2gc off Amazon to see if that helped and the base was a big base not a small so sis not fit well. And ram the same that’s why I chased the distributor.
 

Pighead

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Unless I'm mistaken, the knob under the plastic cap is supposed to be turned toward the block before setting your timing. When driving at altitude, you turn the knob away from the block or toward the "A".

View attachment 3080204
Sort of. IIRC, that knob is the Octane Adjuster, and is used to advance or retard the timing in small increments. I think that 1 revolution of the knob is equal to 1/10th of one degree in timing.
Handy for dialing in one's timing on the road.
 

red66toy

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The vacuum line for your 4wd system coming off the manifold looks super cracked at the top. Vacuum leak maybe?
 

middlecalf

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Good eye Chase @red66toy, that needs addressing. There’s also a tee in it, can’t tell where that goes or is just plugged.
 
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The vacuum line for your 4wd system coming off the manifold looks super cracked at the top. Vacuum leak maybe?
Old pic. I replace that and have tried it with the new line as well as capping it .. same result. Sprayed starting fluid all around the intake and carb and no idle change.. back to thinking it might be carb issue.. anyone know of a cheap carb that will bolt to the base where the 2g is? Don’t want to keep throwing good $ after bad $..
 

whitey45

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Give it more advance, sounds like retarded timing, dont be afraid to go 15 degrees. If its too advanced it will not start easily. The bb is not always accurate. Hate to admit it but I time these by ear, test and tune, drivability, make sure its not detonating etc.
 

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