Engine stand issues for 2F

[JBeechcraft]

I have a brand new engine stand from Pep Boys and no idea as how to mount my 2F motor on the stand. Do I need to purchase bolts or use the motor bolts? and exactly where on the 2F motor do you attach the arms of the stand to the back of the motor? I just don't see how that heavy motor will stay attached to that stand. Anyone have pictures so I don't drop this thing on the garage floor? Also, does anyone have a picture of what the motor mounts look like on an '81 FJ40. I'm putting a non-us 2F 1981 into a '78 which had a sbc which I just removed and all that's left are the sbc mounts. Somehow I think the hard frame motor mounts are different for the '81 and up. I've located the actual motor mounts that came off the '81 FJ45 donor vehicle and I'll be picking them up from the owner soon. I just need to know if I can re-weld those mounts to the '78 frame and install this Austrailian 2F in the '78. Thanks to all for any and all help. Sure do appreciate it!

P.S. cant seem to upload any more pics as this forum says that I've reached my limit. Am I missing something or can you really only post 3 pics ever?

 

[orangefj45]

1) you'll need to purchase the proper metric bolts
2) the stand should hold but i usually measure from the crank pulley to the floor and then check the distance the next day to make sure
3) usually, the back of the crank will hit the engine mounting bracket on the stand, so you'll need to run long bolts and spacers or washers between the bracket and engine.
4) attach the bolts to the 2 top and 2 bottom bolt holes, leave the middle holes out of the equation
5) for safetly's sake, leave the cherry picker attached for the first night with just a little slack in the chain........

 

[Cuerno Largo]

X2 as orange45 stated above


Is your stand the "T" type or the "V/H" type?

I had a T type on my stand in my buildup thread, but you can see later in the thread I changed to a V type stand.

The T type stand from H-Freight was not enough to hold the engine comfortably. I left the cherry picker attached all the time (about a year). Now that I have the other stand, it is adequate and I have removed the engine hoist, rebuilt the engine, and am waiting to finish for install.

In regards to bolt size, you can see my sig line about all the crap in my shop being useful. I had some bolts and washers salvaged from something that worked well and I bought one or two, but don't remember the size. Sorry.

 

[IowaFJ40]

If you purchase a silver star you can post a great deal more pictures. See the 2 posters above me and that they have stars to the left of their name, while I do not.

 

[Sputnik40]

Ditto on most of the above - especially #3 for the spacing. If you have a little 3-wheeled stand (picture a T with a wheel at each end and the mount where the leg goes down) don't even try it - won't hold. Make sure you have a larger 4 wheeled stand and it's beefy. Even then - a fully dressed 2F is heavy.

 

[KY Longhunter]

I asked the same question sometime ago and got lots of good advice that can be referenced here >>

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/198501-cheapo-engine-stand-safe.html

I can post up some pictures tomorrow, but to repeat what was already said you will need to buy some longer metric bolts and then space out with washers to clear the crank.

BTW, my stand allows me to turn the motor upside down to remove the oil pan and replace the rear main seal very easily (highly recomend replacing rear main seal).

Cheers!

 

[bsevans]

I bought the 2 ton stand from HF on sale and all I needed was the correct length metric bolts. I would be concerned with a light weight stand (1 ton or less) regardless of whether or not it has three or four casters. The 2F weight and length applies enough strain and torque on the brackets that bolt to the bell housing mounting points to cause them to flex. The lighter the stand the lighter the brackets and the more flex you will get - sometimes to the point of failure. My backup 2F has been on this stand for months and aside from the initial flex there has been no creep. The 2F weighs more than a big V8 and the CG is further out. You need to take that into consideration when picking the appropriate engine stand, especially for long term storage. I find it is much easier to mount the bracket assembly to the engine while it is still on the shop crane and then slide on the engine stand. That way you can center the bracket assembly on the engine where you want it and torque it down.

 

[Living in the Past]

Also, does anyone have a picture of what the motor mounts look like on an '81 FJ40. I'm putting a non-us 2F 1981 into a '78 which had a sbc which I just removed and all that's left are the sbc mounts. Somehow I think the hard frame motor mounts are different for the '81 and up. I've located the actual motor mounts that came off the '81 FJ45 donor vehicle and I'll be picking them up from the owner soon. I just need to know if I can re-weld those mounts to the '78 frame and install this Austrailian 2F in the '78. Thanks to all for any and all help. Sure do appreciate it!

Don't have any pictures but I know the rear mounts changed with the 81 model (8/80) with the split transfer case. The fronts should be the same but your's 78 had a V8 they may have been cut. They were rivited to the frame. The back mounts on 78 were at the bell housing. The later model it has a crossmember attached to the bottom transfer case that was bolted to brackets attached on both sides of the frame. How you mount it depends more on which tranny transfer you install. I'm sure someone else will post but I think you remove the tube behind the transger case when installing the split case with the cross member.

 

[D'Animal]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/119040-what-do-i-do-my-engine.html

 

[CruisinMT]

I used a t-stand and had no problems, it was even pretty old. Just don't try to move it too fast if you need to get the engine out of the way. Take your time, and buy the right metric bolts. When you rush is when bad s*** happens.

 

[KY Longhunter]

Pics of my 81 on 1000 lbs H stand.

 

[JBeechcraft]

Wow....man what a resource of experience and knowledge! And might I add that you guys are "kinda" into these things. I can't thank you all enough for the information that you have bestowed upon me so far, and I truly look forward to the time when I actually get to drive one of my own FJ40's soon.

Thanks for sending the pics of the engine stand. I can see why people LOVE pictures! Geesh, that tells so much! Looks like my engine stand is a foldable "H" stand capable of holding 1500 pounds. Would most of you all trust that or should I be scrapping that one in favor of the H.Freight 2000 pound model? Finally, are there 6 or 4 motor mounts in the driveline. I've seen the "full" kit from CCOT, which has 4 dougnuts and 2 blocks of motor mounts. I'm now wondering if in the V8 conversion, they also removed the rear motor mounts. I see where they should go in the front, and then I see a set that seems to be holding up the transfer case. Are there mounts around the bell housing area too?

Thanks again SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much for all the help!

 

[POPO AGIE]

1) you'll need to purchase the proper metric bolts
2) the stand should hold but i usually measure from the crank pulley to the floor and then check the distance the next day to make sure
3) usually, the back of the crank will hit the engine mounting bracket on the stand, so you'll need to run long bolts and spacers or washers between the bracket and engine.
4) attach the bolts to the 2 top and 2 bottom bolt holes, leave the middle holes out of the equation
5) for safetly's sake, leave the cherry picker attached for the first night with just a little slack in the chain........

Since my 155F motor is seized and has not turned over since 1991 I need to pull it and then get it flipped over with out an engine stand since the bell housing and flywheel are still attached. I need to flip it over to lift the crank out so that I can harvest the flywheel and the bell housing for my R2.8 install.

I have limited rigging and a small John Deere tractor to do the heavy lifting as needed.

But I can flip GE Fitchburg and Lynn turbine shells with a crane, rigging and a Millwright crew.