M1 TDT is as good as it gets. I even run it in my TDI VW which has the PD motor that is notorious for chewing up cams and lifters. And ya gotta love being able to get it at Wally mart by the gallon.
Engine Rebuilding options for S/C
- Thread starter NLXTACY
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I run the M1 TDT in my SC80 and Blackstone reccommends 12,000 mile changes so your 5,000 mile schedule is way overkill.
I noticed an increase in consumption when I changed from the M1 0w-40 to the 5w-40 TDT. At 160,000 miles my engine is beginning to weep oil a bit, but not enough to account for the consumption (no drips, just visible residue). I usually added about 1qt. between 10,000mi changes but have increased to almost 4qts. There must be something else going on but since it takes me a little over a year to turn 10,000 miles I'm not rushing out to change anything.
Overall I'm very happy with the M1TDT.
I noticed an increase in consumption when I changed from the M1 0w-40 to the 5w-40 TDT. At 160,000 miles my engine is beginning to weep oil a bit, but not enough to account for the consumption (no drips, just visible residue). I usually added about 1qt. between 10,000mi changes but have increased to almost 4qts. There must be something else going on but since it takes me a little over a year to turn 10,000 miles I'm not rushing out to change anything.
Overall I'm very happy with the M1TDT.
I would not break in your new motor with the M1 as its a synthetic. Run regular oil for 5000mile min I would think. I have usually run mine for 5000-7000mile on reg before the synthetic switch.
I usually do a first start oil change (20-30min of run time) then 500mile then 3000mile then 5-7k mile.
Im sure you know all this already but thought it was worth posting.
I usually do a first start oil change (20-30min of run time) then 500mile then 3000mile then 5-7k mile.
Im sure you know all this already but thought it was worth posting.
Why is that?
Yes, Wheelingnoob is right - Ask Martin what he recommends for break-in, and the oil change interval. Ask if a break in additive is recommended, too.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
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Synthetics were only starting to really come out into the market by the time I stopped rebuilding motors. In fact, before this rebuild I had never seen the inside of a motor that ran only Synthetic.
I would talk to Martin tomorrow, er I guess Monday. Its Sunday in India
I would talk to Martin tomorrow, er I guess Monday. Its Sunday in India
my guy recommends 15w40 with an additive pack for break in.
Errr... I meant 'additive supplement' like GM EOS or one of the various Break-in supplements on the market. Martin gave me a bottle of the GM stuff with mine. They're all basically high-concentration ZDDP, but with your supper high-tech motor I dunno. I was dealing with lo-tech 2F push-rods and solid lifters.
mickeyt said:
From what I was told when I rebuilt my first motor was that you want the new rings to be able to wear slightly to conform to the cylinder walls better. With syntheyic this might not work as well. I've never tried "break in" on synthetic so I cant verify otherwise. Just listening to the experts so to speak.
To echo what a few guys mentioned already - at Robbie's recommendation, I used Rotella 15w-40 "conventional" oil for the first 10k after my rebuild, with changes at 500, 1500, 3000 and 6000 mi. The idea was to allow the rings to seat properly and prevent future problems with blowby, etc. I have now switched to the M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40, and so far it's been great.
I'd change it at 100 miles, too, or less - at least that's what Martin recommended to me.
Yeah that is why I change mine after a 20min run. It cleans out all the junk that gets in to oil in the first few min of break in (assembly lube, ring fillings and so on).
Talk to your engine builder though and see what he says, he is the one that will know (every engine builder is different) but all say no synthetics!
From what I have read the first 15-50 miles is the most critical as that is where 80% of the break in is done of the rings and other areas. No steady RPM hwy driving and very from acceleration to deceleration to allow the rings to seat good. No high RPM or heavy WOT load, most critical as far as my old engine builder is no lugging.
So now that we have made sure your first drive with the new engine will be nerve racking have fun and enjoy it!
he likes a zinc additive along with dino oil.
When are we going to see this thing running? It is looking great by the way.
I hate this thread 'cuz it's making me wanna buy an 80 ...
Fuel Injection is EVIL !
Fuel Injection is EVIL !
