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- #21
..Wire..
Electrical gremlin... 1976 fj40. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MoabChris
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- 1976 electrical fj40 ignition
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Do you get power to anything? Lights? Radio?
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- #23
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
I'm guessing that white/blue wire has something to do with it. Put your meter on that and see if you get any juice there.
You didn't happen to smell any melting plastic did you? Wondering how recent that burn/melt is on your wires...
You didn't happen to smell any melting plastic did you? Wondering how recent that burn/melt is on your wires...
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- #25
No. No burning smell. I suspect that corrosion was old. I cut the end off, spliced in some new wire, a new female connector and no difference...
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
You have a meter now make sure you're getting 12V at that wire. Electrical work is a process of elimination you have to be patient and methodical. If you get 12V there and you're CERTAIN your grounds are good - meaning to clean exposed metal (use sandpaper), then onto the fuse box. There are connections on front and back that should be cleaned up. Trust me, I went through this whole process as I was having issues just like you.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
FYI - I fought my electrical problems for about 6 weeks!
- Thread starter
- #28
Ok update.
I have 12.3 volts at the fuse box.
Both sides.
Checked the ignition switch coming from the fuse box at the connection... 3 wires had 12.3 volts.
1 wire only ... the blue with Red stripe has only 2 volts.
Thoughts on what do do/ look for next?
I have 12.3 volts at the fuse box.
Both sides.
Checked the ignition switch coming from the fuse box at the connection... 3 wires had 12.3 volts.
1 wire only ... the blue with Red stripe has only 2 volts.
Thoughts on what do do/ look for next?
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Did you clean up your fuse connections? All fresh shiny metal? Also, carefully check the fuses - mine looked fine but the metal link inside had become detached but looked like it was still good.
And all your battery cable connections are solid right? Mine had cracked. Ground to frame is on shiny metal right?
Here is the schematic for your 76:
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/schematics/FJ40/1976FJ40/1976_Toyota_LC_FJ40.pdf
Blue-red is connected to a number of items...
And all your battery cable connections are solid right? Mine had cracked. Ground to frame is on shiny metal right?
Here is the schematic for your 76:
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/schematics/FJ40/1976FJ40/1976_Toyota_LC_FJ40.pdf
Blue-red is connected to a number of items...
- Thread starter
- #30
Yes. I cleaned the frame rail to bare metal and grounded with new cables.
This blue-red wire was at the connection to the ignition switch, after the fuse box, i think. (The 4 wire bundle).
I recheck all the fuses again...
Should i have 12.3v at all 4 wires? And on both sides of each fuse?
This blue-red wire was at the connection to the ignition switch, after the fuse box, i think. (The 4 wire bundle).
I recheck all the fuses again...
Should i have 12.3v at all 4 wires? And on both sides of each fuse?
The wires near your hand looked toasted. I would put new wire ends on and do a better job of splicing.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Doubt anything works at 2V in a vehicle... heck isn't a AA battery 1.5V?
- Thread starter
- #33
Like i started with. I know zero about electrical systems...other than this one is not working...ill see if replacing this section of wire addresses the issue .
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Hey just trying to help - I didn't know much about elecrical either but troubleshooting my system I learned a lot. Don't just replace things without checking the other items on the schematic. Look for all the blue-red connections - they're clearly marked on the diagram.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Agree...you've GOT to clean up those wires by your hand in post # 9.
- Thread starter
- #36
Yes. I did that. Cut off the bad wires, replaced with new wire and new female connector.
Just to make sure. You ran the ground to the engine and from the engine to the frame, correct? I had a buddy tell me last night that his Camaro was setup like that and would not run otherwise. Since you are running a Chevy conversion, I am guessing you would have the same set up. If others think that is wrong, I hope they chime in.
Coolerman
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Ok back to basics here. First off, that WL wire that was melted has nothing to do with your problem. That wire is actually the Head Light/Brake Light/Park Light/Lighter power feed. It needed fixing but is not the root of your problem.
That splice into the BY ignition wire is going to the HEI dizzy on your 350 motor. Again this is not the source of your problem, but needs taping up to prevent a short later.
The power path for your truck is this: + battery cable to what you say is a large red wire that should be spliced into a large WHITE wire going into the harness. This splice is the first place I would look. Bad splice = no power or intermittent power. There should be a fusible link here. I sell a kit to make this right but back to that later...
That white wire then goes to the Amp Meter + terminal on the back of the gauge cluster. Check that connection next. Note: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHEN DOING THE FOLLOWING!!!) Then the power goes through the Amp Meter. If the Amp meter is defective, you will have no power to the fuse panel. To test if the Amp Meter is bad you need to bypass it: Remove the White wire from the + terminal on the Amp Meter and place it on the - terminal of the Amp Meter where the large White/Blue wire is. Make SURE it is a good tight connection, as ALL of the current drawn from the battery will pass through this connection while testing! Reconnect the battery and check to see if the problem is resolved. If not disconnect the battery again while checking some other stuff.
Power now goes through the White/Blue wire to the Alternator B+ AND to the Key Switch where it is routed as needed by what the key switch position is.
The AM terminal on the key switch goes to the fuse panel White/Blue wire. This wire supplies three fuses that are Key switched on.
The Black/Yellow wire (IG) supplies three fuses that are always on.
I would unplug the three (White/Black/Green) fuse panel connectors on the back of the fuse panel (make sure to release the little latching tabs on the FUSE side of the fuse panel) on each connector first, before pulling them loose) then clean up the male terminals sticking out of the back with a Dremel tool with a wire brush. Then clean EVER single fuse clip to shiny metal and re-install NEW fuses.
BTW the large Blue/Red wire is connected to the ACC position on the key switch. It will only have +12V power when the key is ON or in ACC position.
So that is what you need to do in order to figure out where you are losing power. My guess is a bad splice into the white wire near the battery, a bad or loose connection on either of the Amp Meter connections or a defective Amp Meter.
Send me a PM if you want the fusible link kit and the extra male connector needed to repair your fusible link.
That splice into the BY ignition wire is going to the HEI dizzy on your 350 motor. Again this is not the source of your problem, but needs taping up to prevent a short later.
The power path for your truck is this: + battery cable to what you say is a large red wire that should be spliced into a large WHITE wire going into the harness. This splice is the first place I would look. Bad splice = no power or intermittent power. There should be a fusible link here. I sell a kit to make this right but back to that later...
That white wire then goes to the Amp Meter + terminal on the back of the gauge cluster. Check that connection next. Note: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHEN DOING THE FOLLOWING!!!) Then the power goes through the Amp Meter. If the Amp meter is defective, you will have no power to the fuse panel. To test if the Amp Meter is bad you need to bypass it: Remove the White wire from the + terminal on the Amp Meter and place it on the - terminal of the Amp Meter where the large White/Blue wire is. Make SURE it is a good tight connection, as ALL of the current drawn from the battery will pass through this connection while testing! Reconnect the battery and check to see if the problem is resolved. If not disconnect the battery again while checking some other stuff.
Power now goes through the White/Blue wire to the Alternator B+ AND to the Key Switch where it is routed as needed by what the key switch position is.
The AM terminal on the key switch goes to the fuse panel White/Blue wire. This wire supplies three fuses that are Key switched on.
The Black/Yellow wire (IG) supplies three fuses that are always on.
I would unplug the three (White/Black/Green) fuse panel connectors on the back of the fuse panel (make sure to release the little latching tabs on the FUSE side of the fuse panel) on each connector first, before pulling them loose) then clean up the male terminals sticking out of the back with a Dremel tool with a wire brush. Then clean EVER single fuse clip to shiny metal and re-install NEW fuses.
BTW the large Blue/Red wire is connected to the ACC position on the key switch. It will only have +12V power when the key is ON or in ACC position.
So that is what you need to do in order to figure out where you are losing power. My guess is a bad splice into the white wire near the battery, a bad or loose connection on either of the Amp Meter connections or a defective Amp Meter.
Send me a PM if you want the fusible link kit and the extra male connector needed to repair your fusible link.
- Thread starter
- #39
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Yes, I'd love to buy that fusable link. I'll pm you for this.
I will do this tonight!!
Love this forum. I learn a ton and appreciate all the advice!!
Yes, I'd love to buy that fusable link. I'll pm you for this.
I will do this tonight!!
Love this forum. I learn a ton and appreciate all the advice!!
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
@Coolerman is the man! Glad he piped in as I pretty much ran out of my suggestions which sound like weren't the solutions anyhow lol. Keep us posted!
