EGR delete step by step

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On OBD2 we unplug the thermistor and replace with a 4.7k ohm resistor.

I'm still throwing a P0401 after getting the resistor plug, do I need to block off some lines as well? I removed the intake manifold a few weeks back and cleaned it out really well, but cheaped out and didn't replace the VSV and just want to move on from the EGR system if I can help it.
 
I'm still throwing a P0401 after getting the resistor plug, do I need to block off some lines as well? I removed the intake manifold a few weeks back and cleaned it out really well, but cheaped out and didn't replace the VSV and just want to move on from the EGR system if I can help it.

Might sound dumb but did you put the resistor on the harness side instead of the sensor side? This mistake has been made before.
 
Might sound dumb but did you put the resistor on the harness side instead of the sensor side? This mistake has been made before.

And what is the value of the resistor? Have done a ton of them, the condition of the EGR system doesn't matter, none have coded.
 
Maybe a dumb question. What are the bearing balls and screw for in the kit?
Blocking off vacuum ports along with filling in the hole where the temp sensor is removed.
 
Again, there is NO performance gain from deleting EGR. It's just running away from codes. Always funny to see how many "Mr. T did it right" comments about whatever nonsense, and then the total forum support for removing entire systems on the car. Systems that the car was built for, as in the ECU is mapped for the EGR to be working properly, so your car may actually be getting worse MPG, lower horsepower, and running worse because of mods like this.

Gotta love inconsistent logic.
 
Again, there is NO performance gain from deleting EGR. It's just running away from codes. Always funny to see how many "Mr. T did it right" comments about whatever nonsense, and then the total forum support for removing entire systems on the car. Systems that the car was built for, as in the ECU is mapped for the EGR to be working properly, so your car may actually be getting worse MPG, lower horsepower, and running worse because of mods like this.

Gotta love inconsistent logic.

I havent done anything to my truck yet. I got bigger issues to deal with at the moment. Just trying to get a better understanding of the system and learn for my curious mind.

So what's your reasoning for being against the delete? I have seen that you have been pretty vocal about not deleting it but not giving detailed information as to why. (maybe you have but I just haven't come across your post explaining why). Is it just because the ecu was originally designed with egr?
 
This would be the fourth post I've ever posted on this forum about EGR deletes. If you read a lot of the posts on here about EGRs, people delete them because they have codes and they get tired of chasing codes. Well, the codes are there for a reason. Usually because of a blockage of some sort. They don't just appear out of nowhere. That could be because the engine isn't tuned right for a bunch of reasons. Instead of figuring out why that's happening, people here just remove the system altogether. A fully functioning EGR system does not hamper engine performance in any way. It may even *gasp* increase it.

If we were talking about a late 70s OPEC era emissions vehicle, it would be a whole different story. If you rip all the EGR stuff off a '78 Chevy small block for example, you will see serious gains. That's when ECUs had roughly five wires going to them and the emissions systems were made to severely limit all outputs. They were the first systems and had lots and lots of issues. Ask anyone who's worked on late 70s and early 80s vehicles of any make/model and they'll tell you the first thing to do when increasing horsepower is to remove all the smog pumps, hardline evap tubes to the intake, charcoal canisters, etc. There was A LOT of junk on those engines.

But we're talking about a 90s vehicle and by then evap systems were pretty streamlined. They rarely just "go bad" (about as often as anything else on a 25 year old vehicle) but serve a purpose. EGR injects exhaust air into the cylinders to reduce combustion temperature. Now, if you've read all about how you don't want these engines to run hot because of headgasket failures, then reducing your combustion temperature sounds like a great idea. Because exhaust gases are forced back into the chamber, it lowers combustion temperature because it is no longer combustible. Simple as that. Mind you, the EGR only functions when the engine is at a high combustion temperature, which is not all the time.

This means the ECU was designed for this. If you remove a component the system is built for, it's going to run different. I'm not going to speculate how it runs because I'm not a "pantseat wisdom" kind of guy, I want actual data. And there is no actual data to support that removing the EGR on these vehicles improves anything at all.

So, removing the EGR:

1. No performance gains i.e. MPG, HP (may actually hamper performance)
2. Higher combustion chamber temperatures
3. May mask underlying engine issues
4. Spews more s*** in the air

Which is why I don't understand the logic of everyone on these forums removing these systems. It's almost one of the first things people do mainly because it's something to do.

I will admit that removing the EGR system and other smog components do clean up the engine bay, but this isn't a 1970 Chevelle. It's a Land Cruiser and the engine bay isn't a thing of beauty by any stretch of the imagination. If it was a show car, then I'm all for it.
 
I actually see most people disabling it to limit the heat seen at the harness near the EGR pipe along with combating the hot exhaust gas going in to the head near #6 (which is debatable), not for performance gains. I know many people have done it to avoid a potentially expensive and time sucking exercise to solve one of the two codes resulting from an EGR issue. I have also talked with dozens, if not more people, where after disabling the EGR they only see a minimal NOX increase and all other emissions remain the same. I feel that disabling the EGR or solving the underlying reason for the code should be up to the owner. Much like the debate on brakes, big tires, deleting ABS, etc. and of course killing bus loads of nuns.
 
FWIW: I just recently pulled the head off one my 80's and found everything full of carbon all from the EGR system: Throttle Body, Intake, EGR valve, EGR port in the head, EGR port in the upper intake plenum, valves, etc,etc. I can't see how that is any good for the engine, or the environment.

I suppose if you take the intake and EGR system off every 50,000 miles to clean up the carbon, the system may continue to function at peak efficiency, but short of that it's going to get clogged up until it's non-functional all over again.

So wondering, does anyone know which states require the EGR system to not only be working but also still be intact (pass a visual inspection)? I would assume Cali and NY require both, but then does it fall off after ? 25 years, or do some states (or Feds) require that the EGR system has to be intact/working forever? My current state, Florida, has no annual inspections.

I'm guessing that emissions testing may even get more strict at some point in the future, depending on who's in charge (politics) including State and/or Federal Carbon Taxes for internal combustion engines. Cali will be first of course.
 
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