those summits look great!
Builds Drift Monkey's Wheelin' Build (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Drift Monkey
- Start date
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- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 186
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- 11,063
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
That’s because any of the newer style petcocks are a different thread pitch. For example when you buy a new short block you have to buy a new style petcock because the old style (just a plug) has a different thread pitch. Old not compatible with new and vise versa.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #43
Hmmm....the newer one seemed to thread in fine for me. No leaks since I've installed it.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 186
- Messages
- 11,063
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Don’t want to clutter your thread but for reference.
Old style
new style
New short blocks won’t take the old style, thread pitch is different so here in my shop, new short block gets the new style while a rebuilt block gets the old one put back in. No idea why you had no issues, I encountered this some years ago and now just go with my new gets new and old gets old so no issues or further problem encounters.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #45
No worries about clogging the thread! Yeah, that is strange. I thought this was a relatively common swap.
No leaks/puddles on the ground post-swap - ran about 5-6 flush cycles out the spout and has been fine since the cooling system overhaul.
- Thread starter
- #46
Wired up my old Diode Dynamics SS3s to the bumper .
Up next, I need to install the winch.
Up next, I need to install the winch.
nice rig what size lift are running to fit the 37s any trimming?
- Thread starter
- #48
Thanks - it's a simple Dobinsons setup - 4" Flexi coils (C59-614V/615V) with their longest (CS59-684/685 "6" lift") yellow nitro shocks. I had some rubbing on the front initially before the @eimkeith Radius Arm Mounts but all is good on the street right now - drives way better with some caster. I need to get her lifted again on a forklift to check my clearances…or I need to go wheeling once it cools down a bit
.
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We all want to go wheel but sometimes a bench test is all you get haha
- Thread starter
- #50
There's still the crucial step of welding that last leg to the passenger side slider before I can go wheel.
Installing the winch is next, but this thing really needs gears. Transfer case first is probably the route I'm going...then the axles. I'll never be "done."
- Thread starter
- #51
Finally finished that last tricky slider leg that goes under/between the cats. We used 1/2” plate gusseted across with 2x 1/2” plates, boxed and an extra plate gusset extended up to the top of the frame. I also managed to paint…one side so far.
I like the angle these sit at, but boy is it a PITA to paint!
I like the angle these sit at, but boy is it a PITA to paint!
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- Thread starter
- #52
The week before I also dropped in the old winch. This took some….uh…creative clearancing since the control box is huge on this thing.
The center support was notched along with the sheet metal below the grille. The transmission cooler had to be moved up and a bit sideways leaving just enough clearance. I used some pre drilled flat bar and cut off lengths I needed to make sure it still bolted to (most of) the stock locations, but hey, she fits!
The center support was notched along with the sheet metal below the grille. The transmission cooler had to be moved up and a bit sideways leaving just enough clearance. I used some pre drilled flat bar and cut off lengths I needed to make sure it still bolted to (most of) the stock locations, but hey, she fits!
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- Thread starter
- #53
The winch left me…well zero space to properly attach it to the battery’s positive terminal so I decided to “clean it up” a little.
I had to bend off the extra length on the old negative clamp and re-drill the remaining “lug” with a M8 bit, but it all worked out. The winch lug now has a proper spot and these clamps should come in useful for later expansions as well.
Side note: how the hell do I disable that ridiculous 90s “red button” alarm that loves to go off whenever you disconnect/reconnect the battery? I had this on my old 01 Tundra as well and it was also extra irritating.
I had to bend off the extra length on the old negative clamp and re-drill the remaining “lug” with a M8 bit, but it all worked out. The winch lug now has a proper spot and these clamps should come in useful for later expansions as well.
Side note: how the hell do I disable that ridiculous 90s “red button” alarm that loves to go off whenever you disconnect/reconnect the battery? I had this on my old 01 Tundra as well and it was also extra irritating.
seeing as you have a '97, search for RS3000 on here. if its that unit, its as easy as disconnecting the T harness from under the dash and kick panel. But then you'll lose keyless. Pro move is hack the T harness for an aftermarket system like Viper, etc.
- Thread starter
- #55
This thing has keyless? I'm been locking/unlocking with my key this whole time!
- Thread starter
- #56
Looks like I have a Gulf Coast dealer installed Securikey+ based off this thread: 1997 Land Cruiser Dealer Installed Securikey+ Alarm Guide - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1997-land-cruiser-dealer-installed-securikey-alarm-guide.1120320/
Good resource as well: Securikey+ ELVAT6B 0014-S0274 0014-S0273 History, Information and Programming Instructions - http://jjguy.com/securikey/
Ordered 2 of these: VERY NICE CODE ALARM AUDIOVOX ELVATDB 4-BUTTON REMOTE START TRANSMITTER DIYTX | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/185474826002 (search for ELVATDB) - hopefully they work.
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- Thread starter
- #57
The remotes came in - they’re in basically new condition. Programmed them both with no issues - not sure if I like the headlights coming on with every lock/unlock but it seems to be fairly programmable. Edit: they no longer come on during lock/unlock, pretty simple.
It's nice to have keyless entry on this thing, didn't know I just needed remotes. I should probably work on the rear door lock actuators here at some point...
It's nice to have keyless entry on this thing, didn't know I just needed remotes.
I should probably work on the rear door lock actuators here at some point...
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- Thread starter
- #58
Finally, some wheelin' this past weekend! Did a shakedown run over at Hidden Falls.
This one was extremely sketchy - passenger right rear tire was a good yard off the ground. Huge pucker moment and one of many had that day.
This one was extremely sketchy - passenger right rear tire was a good yard off the ground. Huge pucker moment and one of many had that day.
- Thread starter
- #59
Flex out on the rock and checked some clearances - the fronts stuff great after @eimkeith RAMs! Tiny bit of rub out back by the bumper covers - I could either trim, or move the lower links a smidge forward. I'll probably just leave it until I get my rear tube bumper built.
Another (captured) pucker moment. Ignore the smile and wave, I was not having fun in the cab.
Also - the front locker seems to like to get stuck after activated - it only unlocked once I put a wheel up on the poser rock for whatever reason. Any ideas?
Another (captured) pucker moment. Ignore the smile and wave, I was not having fun in the cab.
Also - the front locker seems to like to get stuck after activated - it only unlocked once I put a wheel up on the poser rock for whatever reason. Any ideas?
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- Thread starter
- #60
Also quickie (late) update, fixed my wooshing-when-opening-the-gas-cap with a Dorman 911-261 Vapor Canister.
Cheap and it's been working since: Amazon product ASIN B07KFZ1WPW
Hell the price has even dropped since I bought it!
Cheap and it's been working since: Amazon product ASIN B07KFZ1WPW
Hell the price has even dropped since I bought it!
