semlin
curmudgeon
863J's on the back give you much more lift compared to 850J's on the front so you end up with stinkbug. on the bright side, you look nice and even when towing a large boat 
Don't swap the Med for Heavy OEM Springs (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Romer
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Another quick question. On the 850J front and 863 rear they will sit level....... I have arb front bumper, trail gear sliders and ipor skid plate and eventually rear storage and 4x4 labs rear bumper, once weight is added all round will it still sit level. Or will one of them compress quicker than other? I want level and if the regular rear heavy will eventually sag lower then front I would think getting j rear would make more sense!
semlin
curmudgeon
i have js front and back. arb bumper and warn 10k front, hanna sliders, and 4x4 rear bumper. even with the rear seats in and passengers and luggage back there i get significant stink bug. personally i like stink bug.
That answers that, thanks
THANK YOU!!!!
So as a newcomer to the world of 80s I have been caught up in a battle in my mind of coil spring madness with every retailer posting up some new and different size, spec, claim, bs sales tactic. This chart is going to give me the ability to locate the springs I want to achieve the height I need. Coming from jeeps this has been the most frustrating thing. For example if you own a Jeep Cherokee and want to clear 35's you get on the phone and order a 6" lift. Whole kit gets dropped off for under 2 grand to your door and you install it. Low and behold its 6" level front to rear and clears the 35's. LOL what a concept. I know SLEE does this but not everyone has that kind of money.
So as a newcomer to the world of 80s I have been caught up in a battle in my mind of coil spring madness with every retailer posting up some new and different size, spec, claim, bs sales tactic. This chart is going to give me the ability to locate the springs I want to achieve the height I need. Coming from jeeps this has been the most frustrating thing. For example if you own a Jeep Cherokee and want to clear 35's you get on the phone and order a 6" lift. Whole kit gets dropped off for under 2 grand to your door and you install it. Low and behold its 6" level front to rear and clears the 35's. LOL what a concept. I know SLEE does this but not everyone has that kind of money.
Best thing about an 80 is that you can shoehorn 35s under a stock truck, if you're running light.
Once you put stuff inside you will want springs with higher rate than factory ones.
Also, be aware that most of the OME springs don't do a level lift. I'm using 850/860 which is heavy front with medium rears, and I still have a 1" rake. Had I used medium fronts and rears I would have ended up with 2" stinkbug.
if your adding weight i would go heavies in the rear ,and do j in front and just buy some spacers,1/2 " and 3/4 '' cause as you start adding rear winch ,drawers ,fridge,compressor,spare parts tools, etc. you will eventually be useing and moving the spacers around ,and they will last for a couple sets of springs, now the real question is should you just jump into L shocks.
What kind of weight are you running in the back? For starters I have the bed/drawer combo, soon to be adding a 70 later au fuel tank, to be followed by a Cruisin' Offroad rear bumper. Wondering what kind of stinkbug I'll end up with mediums in the rear
Sorry I should have specified 'stock truck' as mine is completely empty most of the time. 3rd row removed, 315 spare in stock spot. Winch in stock front bumper. And some Cruisin Offroad slider-steps.
With any weight in the back you'll want to upsize the springs accordingly.
Nice thing is that if you don't like the rake you can simply swap rear springs and sell off what you take out. Cheap n easy.
With all that load in the back, I'd start with heavy springs if I were you. Just realize that adding more and more weight will lower the tail more and more
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Yes I read all 7 pages!!! Are you running 60018 front & 60020 rear shocks or are you running L's? Can't make up my mind if I should get the regular length shocks or L's for the 850/860 combo. Stock weight for now but will be adding a Shortbus & sliders in the future.
I'm using fox 2.0 remote reservoir 10" travel bolt-in units. Currently there is no kit for the reservoirs so I had to build my own, it was simple.
In your case, what are your requirements? Crawling or expo? Should prolly just call a vendor and order what they recommend based on what you're doing.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Most offroading will be horrible dirt roads & rock crawlng. Are your 10" travel Fox's maxed out when suspension is extended (ie. is your shock length the limiting factor in your flex)?
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Bump this thread.
It is old, but still is relivent today.
It has alot of good info for newbie's shopping for the right lift & application.
Looks like good combs are 850/860, 850J/863 for level lift.
It is old, but still is relivent today.
It has alot of good info for newbie's shopping for the right lift & application.
Looks like good combs are 850/860, 850J/863 for level lift.
Another BUMP for this thread. I have 850/863's, and moved up to 35's. The info helped me figure out what I needed to tweak in my old 2.5" and 33's setup.
All the cool kids have moved on to Fox/Icons, Slinky's, etc. But a few of us are still running around in the dark ages with our OME lifts.
All the cool kids have moved on to Fox/Icons, Slinky's, etc. But a few of us are still running around in the dark ages with our OME lifts.
From the dead, here we go….
My 95 80 is currently all stock.
Plan:
850 front, 860 rear. Castor correction plates. Front/rear sway bar drop brackets. Delta rear panhard correction.
The thought is get it close to level with factory weight. Later, I’ll add short bus and winch with front spacers to remain level. Out back will likely stay factory.
After reading many hours about this subject that is the best setup i can come up with for my needs. Is there any ideas out there for this being the wrong direction to take?
My 95 80 is currently all stock.
Plan:
850 front, 860 rear. Castor correction plates. Front/rear sway bar drop brackets. Delta rear panhard correction.
The thought is get it close to level with factory weight. Later, I’ll add short bus and winch with front spacers to remain level. Out back will likely stay factory.
After reading many hours about this subject that is the best setup i can come up with for my needs. Is there any ideas out there for this being the wrong direction to take?
If stock weight you might want to stick with 2851 up front or risk being over sprung...
I am moving away from that same combo (2851/2860) bc I have an ARB and a winch and a terrible rake right now.
I'm going 2850 and have slee camber plates ready to go on if/when needed. Gotta get new OEM bushings for my radius arms first. I'll also consider 30mm pucks if more leveling is needed after coils.
If you eant my 2850s after I pull em out, shoot me a PM
Thanks. Already purchased and have it all in my garage waiting for a free day to install.
Results are near perfection.
The only thing not originally purchased was a DC drive shaft. It’s on order now due to the growling as many people seem to get. This set up drives and rides great. More firm but great all around.
The only thing not originally purchased was a DC drive shaft. It’s on order now due to the growling as many people seem to get. This set up drives and rides great. More firm but great all around.
