Do I Need a New Water Pump? Maybe I'm Just Paranoid? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Threads
5
Messages
22
Location
Boise Idaho
I'm a total noob here, so bear with me!

About a month ago I was letting my cold blooded FJ60 warm up for about 20 or 30 minutes (it was frozen solid, only about 5 degrees outside).

When I came out I noticed a large pool of coolant under that car. It took me awhile to locate the leak because coolant hitting the fan and was being flung all over- it was from the top return hose that came from the thermostat housing and it dripped along the top lip of the rad and eventually down onto the fan..I tightened that sucker down and have not any issues since.

However, while I was researching potential issues I read something about an indication of water pump failure (or just gasket failure) was deposits or residue around the edge of the water pump where it meets the front of the engine block. Mine had quite bit of residue (see image attached) and I made a note to change the water pump when the weather was better.

I have thought that my FJ was running a bit on the hot side in the past, although the temperature gauge reading was always normal pretty much every time. During the summer months the hood was sometimes too hot to touch (keep in mind I have a replacement hood that doesn't have any of the insulation or padded material that I have seen on other cars- its just straight metal) - I have never experienced any performance issues even in 115 degree weather driving up steep hills either.

I'm a bit paranoid about this old rig and I often listen to the sound of the engine to see if I can notice any changes. One sound that was common during the colder months was a bit of a 'knock' or click that went away after the car had warmed up. I was assuming it might be a bearing going bad..perhaps the water pump?

Last night I thought that I could notice a new sound that at first sounded like restricted air flow to the air filter.. or seemed to be either an air leak from the header seal?? (I have custom headers and exhaust to go with the TBI conversion that is on the rig) The thermostat housing is near where I think the sound was coming from... I'm starting to think that I'm making the sound up in my head from being paranoid about the residue.. who knows.. maybe there is a sound that is related to the cooling system... I drove it anyway and all seemed fine... It was raining slightly when I got to my destination and I noticed that the center of the hood was steaming and the water was evaporating leaving it dry while the outsides still remained wet... so if it was warm enough to do that, I'm assuming it was getting too hot to drive.. anyone have any input on that?

I guess I'm looking for reassurance that I haven't induced some major damage to the car (remember I'm a major noob here!)

I'm going to replace the water pump regardless because its a relatively cheap fix as well as a good introduction to the underside of my hood (first big project for me). I don't have the FSM so any additional info or links to threads would be much appreciated :)

Also, If I'm under there, what else should I do? I'm thinking I will replace all the hoses and the thermostat.. Am I missing anything?

IMG_5102.JPG
 
is leak fixed or not? How many miles on motor...has water pump ever been changed?
 
is leak fixed or not? How many miles on motor...has water pump ever been changed?
The leak is fixed. It was just the loose hose. I tightened the clamp and no more problems. It has abou 255k miles on it and the moter was rebuilt prior to me buying it.. It was in an accident prior to me purchasing and I believe they replaced the radiator.. it seems newer as do the hoses. As for the water pump I'm not 100% sure. It's possible that it was replaced. The car was taken well care of for the looks of it. I could probably dig around and find some documents that came with it that may indicate if it got a new water pump..
 
Also, for the thermostat, I see 2 options and the only difference is the temperature, do I need 180F or 192F?
 
Get an infrared temperature gun like the one sold at harbor freight. Use that as your reference. Not the cab gauge.

All FJ60 2F engines were supplied with 190° thermostats. The 180° thermostat was designed for the old FJ40 2F. Either one will fit. Guys use either based on their religious beliefs. A 190° seems like a good choice for the winter. Also the heater will be 10° warmer. Idle will be bit better, so will MPG a bit. Supposedly engine wear will be slightly less.
 
Ok lots going on in there (and here I thought I was the only one that rambled!!!)...
Looks like you have a TBI conversion which changes things a bit.
Give us some details on your truck first and foremost.
 
To check the condition of the bearings in the water pump grab the fan and try to rock it back and forth - it shouldn't really have any play in it. If it wobbles a replacement is probably imminent.
 
1984 FJ60 about 255k miles on it. It has a TBI conversion with custom headers and exhaust that was professionally installed as well as an overhaul of the engine about a 50k -60k miles ago (its also de-smogged, not sure if that is a given with the TBI). I bought it last November and it has been solid since. No major issues other than oil leaks.

What else would be good to know? Previous owner kept great records and documentation so I'm sure I can provide more specifics if needed.
 
Cruisers make lots of strange sounds, it's how they talk to you.

Agreed that the stock temp gauge is not real accurate, but most people see the temp at 1/3 to 1/2 way up the gauge. If you are 1/2 or less once the truck is fully warmed up, it's probably fine.
 
aftermarket temp gauge install and roll.....nominal temps in the winter would be 180F-190F range, replace thermostat-rubber washer - gasket.
 
aftermarket temp gauge install and roll.....nominal temps in the winter would be 180F-190F range, replace thermostat-rubber washer - gasket.
This. May be worth while to pick up a chiltons or Haynes manual for the engine year, and if you know what it came out of, make vehicle. Water pump could be on the way out but could just be engine groaning and talking to you. When was your last service cycle? Last time the coolant was topped off?

Do like Output said and get an IR temp gun and take some temps of different spots on the engine. Also install a second aftermarket temp gauge is a must if you are questioning that much.
 
I have an aftermarket water temp gauge installed in one of the threaded ports in the front of the head. I'm desmogged, so that was an easy option. What I've noticed is that the stock gauge and the aftermarket gauge (VDO) move together in a linear fashion. The advantage in the aftermarket gauge is that it has the actual temp in degrees. 1/3 on my stock gauge = 185 on my VDO gauge. I don't have a lot of confidence that others would have the same correlation. However, when my VDO goes higher, so does my stock gauge.

The oil pressure gauge however, is way different. I again have a VDO mechanical gauge. I see a range from 30 to 60 psi on it. On the stock gauge, the variation is very small, not any way that it correlates to the range shown on the VDO gauge.

Based on my own experience, I'd say the stock temp gauge is good enough as a measurement of the temp of the engine.
 
I picked up a IR gun off Amazon to run some checks.. No issues. Its running around 180. I even drove into the mountains to take a dip in the hotsprings and checked the temps after driving up hill for 2 hours.. All good.

I took temps at the thermostat housing, the return hose and just all around the engine. All in good ranges. (see picture attached) IMG_5165.jpg However, right behind the headers the temperature was higher (around see 250) This to me seems normal as the headers are so hot that they are likely causing some residual heat on that portion. Is this thinking correct?

Also, I found some residue build up on the the power steering reservoir... Power steering pump leak? Or could it be something else? See picture.. IMG_5141.JPG

Thanks for talking the time - I know these are noob questions but I will get there someday!
 
you really need an aftermarket temp gauge installed in the car that reads in "F"...so you'll know what's going on.
 

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