Did I screw up my alignment with TREs?

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
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After doing birfields, I also replaced the TREs now Ive been gearing up for a long distance road trip so Birfields drove it fine, replaced TRTEs and now it pulls to passenger a bit. BUT to be safe I rechecked wheel bearings and they seems good to go. ALL KOYO bearing and races.
 

Tools R Us

 
 
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Not sure what you are attempting to show by spinning the hub, other than it turns? The wheel bearings should be preloaded, no play, I torque them to ~30ft/lb.

Pull when braking is most often brake related.

Counting tie rod end turns, can be helpful in getting it in the ball park, but isn't likely to produce an accurate alignment. Aligning what can be adjusted on a straight axle rig is easy.
Alignment Setting Toe
 

LINUS

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R&R'ed TREs aren't the exact science of counting threads (I shoot a quick paintpen mark, just my way) --- but that aside I think your issue is in the brakes, from your wording.

If you put the same one back (TRE), sure - but your replacement was a new unit, yes? -That the case, it will be a slight different size than your prior TRE.

You stated it pulls when you stab the brakes, but no mention or I whiffed your mention of it pulling just driving under steady gas.

Additionally, not sure your state but we crown roads here for rainfall drainage, that makes a small drift in steering if you set your own alignment.
 
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RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
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R&R'ed TREs aren't the exact science of counting threads (I shoot a quick paintpen mark, just my way) --- but that aside I think your issue is in the brakes, from your wording.

If you put the same one back (TRE), sure - but your replacement was a new unit, yes? -That the case, it will be a slight different size than your prior TRE.

You stated it pulls when you stab the brakes, but no mention or I whiffed your mention of it pulling just driving under steady gas.

Additionally, not sure your state but we crown roads here for rainfall drainage, that makes a small drift in steering if you set your own alignment.
I took the hub apart because I wanted to make sure I didnt overtighten,. Its all back together now. Ill drive it again tommorow and then list what I find. the calipers pads rotors are all new out of the box and bleed out all of it so Let me see where Im at.
 

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
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Not sure what you are attempting to show by spinning the hub, other than it turns? The wheel bearings should be preloaded, no play, I torque them to ~30ft/lb.

Pull when braking is most often brake related.

Counting tie rod end turns, can be helpful in getting it in the ball park, but isn't likely to produce an accurate alignment. Aligning what can be adjusted on a straight axle rig is easy.
Alignment Setting Toe
Im fairly sure Im going to have it aligned again. Im not good enough to driveway align it with 37 in tires with out seeing someone give it a go first. thanks guys
 

Tools R Us

 
 
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Im fairly sure Im going to have it aligned again. Im not good enough to driveway align it with 37 in tires with out seeing someone give it a go first. thanks guys
In our experience, you are way better off to figure it out yourself, it's pretty simple. The most screwed up ones we see are when the "pros" have touched them. They mostly do OK at setting toe to the number, but that is dead simple. Can't be bothered/don't know or care about setting them up for offroad, turn stops, etc.
 

inkpot

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In our experience, you are way better off to figure it out yourself, it's pretty simple. The most screwed up ones we see are when the "pros" have touched them. They mostly do OK at setting toe to the number, but that is dead simple. Can't be bothered/don't know or care about setting them up for offroad, turn stops, etc.
Oh gee, you meat stock settings aren't always the perfect solution for highly modified rigs?
 

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
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In our experience, you are way better off to figure it out yourself, it's pretty simple. The most screwed up ones we see are when the "pros" have touched them. They mostly do OK at setting toe to the number, but that is dead simple. Can't be bothered/don't know or care about setting them up for offroad, turn stops, etc.
I going to try and strap on some flat steel straight bars to front wheels and see if I cant do it. just wish I had actually seen someone do it. when I installed tough dog stabilzer and had the 37s put on they aligned it up and it was rolling hands off wheel at 75 on the hi way, when I did TREs its a bit off now. So I may as well install the other 2 3 5s TREs I have and give it a go, thank you guys.
 

LINUS

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In our experience, you are way better off to figure it out yourself.... The most screwed up ones we see are when the "pros" have touched them......Can't be bothered/don't know or care about setting them up for offroad, turn stops, etc.
Ha, yeah - Discount Tire was **fine** when I was slapping cash for my Intercos, but when you show up with wheels, poly beads, and a bottle of baby powder to get those mounted, they break out ALL the disclaimer paperwork.

Oddly, they never offered me tire warranties either. Hunh. I can't imagine why ;)
 
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For a long time, I've done similar to what Tools suggests, but come at it a little differently.

I'm formerly a carpenter by trade, so this probably influenced my method.

I use a sting line to set toe in.

Tie off the string at rear of the chassis. Stretch string from the rear to the front the rig (or visa versa), pull it tight so it passes across the outer face of the front and rear tires and tie it off at the front.
Position the string so it crosses the side wall of your tires at mid-height/hub centre line.
Put a 1/8 spacer between string and side wall on the front edge of both the front tires.
After setting the steering wheel in the centre adjust tie rods and track rod so the string is just touching the side wall on the rear edge of both front tires.

This gives you about 1/8 toe in, and to work well.

I've used a 1/4" spacer in the pic, I was experimenting trying to eliminate wandering steering
IMG_20170601_201249.jpg
IMG_20170601_210227.jpg
 

Tools R Us

 
 
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...
I use a sting line to set toe in.
...
The problem with that method and our NA rigs is the left hand drive. The panhards are opposing, so when lifted the axles can be offset. Measuring the hubs on a straight axle is pretty accurate, without introducing other potential variables.
 
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The problem with that method and our NA rigs is the left hand drive. The panhards are opposing, so when lifted the axles can be offset. Measuring the hubs on a straight axle is pretty accurate, without introducing other potential variables.
That's something I haven't had to consider.
Maybe only good for RHD then.
 

Dave 2000

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Unfortunately counting threads will not give you accurate alignment, I often find the centre point for the joint can be as much as 180 thou out, which is about three turns, so count off/on and then for 30 euros and ten minutes on an alignment machine and it is job done, I farm out all my alignment work.

Regards

Dave
 

1973Guppie

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when i replace tie rod ends I try to get the almost exact same length in on the ends by cutting a quick mark with a file on the old TRE's before removing them. It then makes it easy to compare the new ones in the vice to the old ones. Of course this is assuming the truck was aligned when it came to me.
 
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Tie rod ends should have no effect on pull. Only toe.

Caster and camber can't be adjusted easily.

Check your tire pressure?

When I set my toe, I used straightedges clamped to the disk rotors and went for the settings Tools recommended. I set it to the spec, but it was too twitchy driving. I took it closer to zero by turning the tie rod about 3/4 turn, using a piece of tape to make sure I could come back to where I started. It was too floaty then, so I went about half way back and now she drives like a dream. I suggest trying 1/4 turns (be sure to tighten the clamps firm but not hard until you find your setting) until you find what you like. It's pretty easy with a wrench and some Knipex pliers.

If you've never adjusted your tie rod, don't even try. Take it out from under the truck so you can break all the rusty stuff loose and chase threads as needed.
 
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