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- #21
My snow plow only, the mower deck hasn't been on in more than 10 years.
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My snow plow only, the mower deck hasn't been on in more than 10 years.
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- #22
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- #23
No big progress to report with travel for the holiday and my wife graciously sharing her cold with me. Ordered locking hubs and knuckle rebuild kit with new wheel bearings from @cruiseroutfit. Door felts, glass runs , weatherstrip for doors and vent windows, etc. from City Racer. Misc. stuff from SOR and Cruiser Corps.
Big one was a complete Dobinson suspension with IMS shocks from Jason @TRAIL TAILOR -Christmas came early this year, and I am so lucky that my wife supports my habit.
Cleaned the license plate lights and replaced bulbs that were not working. Ended up ordering new lights from PartSouq as the lenses were fogged and cracked, and the gaskets were shot, and even with my rebuild were still about as bright as a candle.
Ground the welds off of the kick vents, replaced the mangled driver side one with a salvaged one of of the old 40 tub, did some rust prevention work, a little painting, re-gasketed and reinstalled.
Big one was a complete Dobinson suspension with IMS shocks from Jason @TRAIL TAILOR -Christmas came early this year, and I am so lucky that my wife supports my habit.
Cleaned the license plate lights and replaced bulbs that were not working. Ended up ordering new lights from PartSouq as the lenses were fogged and cracked, and the gaskets were shot, and even with my rebuild were still about as bright as a candle.
Ground the welds off of the kick vents, replaced the mangled driver side one with a salvaged one of of the old 40 tub, did some rust prevention work, a little painting, re-gasketed and reinstalled.
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- #24
I am amazed at PartSouq. I ordered the license plate lights on Tuesday the 10th. They shipped FedEx from Dubai, UAE that day, and were delivered today Friday the 13th. Shipping was $14.16, cheaper than any other shipment I have placed for anything in a while. And no flimsy plastic envelope, a real box with bubble wrap and a bunch of tape on the outside.
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I also recommend binmahmoodstores, they are on Instagram and have all kinds of parts. I bought a brand new exhaust manifold from them.
Meshal
SILVER Star
I hope all good with you. To be clear, I also find another part that is belongs to you. I found the knuckle kit gaskets. 
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- #27
More small, time consuming projects as I prowl around the truck getting up the nerve and time to dive into the larger ones. The main problem was a loss of hydraulics on my snow plow tractor pictured in #22 above, with a pretty involved teardown to get to the hydro transmission, and a bunch of computer time educating myself and figuring out and finding the right parts .
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- #28
Personal hijack over, back to regularly scheduled content
@Meshal had some clutch work done on his dime in order to be able to reliably move/load the truck for inspection, shipping, etc. It worked fine but there was a lot of pedal free-play, so I added the missing slave cylinder spring, bled and adjusted, and now all is good in the clutch world.
Installed the new license plate lights after rustproofing/painting the brackets and mounting area on the frame.
Interior rear view mirror was pretty beat with a home brew mounting clip, so I grabbed the one I had replaced on my 60, transferred the mounting clip and mirror onto the the 45 arm and installed . Found the stabilizer and cover on PartSouq, and added them to the growing list.
The truck only has a driver side 3 point seat belt, so I need to get access to the area behind the seats in order to plan/measure/install the added passenger side belt, and to be able to remove the seat to get it recovered and to be able to remove the floor liner to rustproof/ insulate the cab floor. So the seat has to move forward to get to the rear mounting bolts. The adjuster/lock lever worked fine, but the slides were locked up tight at fully back, which is where they will live as legroom is at a premium in the 45, but for now they need to move forward. After considerable wrestling, I was able to get just enough movement to get to the rear bolts with a swivel socket and get the seat out. After a similar wrestling process to remove the slides from the seat bottom, I got the inside slide in the vice. After applying copious amounts of PB blaster, parts cleaner, air pressure and spray silicon grease, and working it back and forth a few hundred times, it was pretty smooth. The same process for the outside adjustable slide took one more additional step to achieve success. I had to remove the blade of one of those reversible screwdrivers that was wedged in the track. After that things were good. Added a seat cover that was in the truck but not installed ( I now know why) that matched the one on the passenger bench, got the seat belt measurements for the wife's side, installed the newly covered, smooth sliding driver's seat, and took some time reflecting on how long it took to do a job that was basically removing 4 bolts.
I was however rewarded for my efforts. In addition to the screwdriver blade, I found two beautiful 1 Ryal Saudi coins.
@Meshal had some clutch work done on his dime in order to be able to reliably move/load the truck for inspection, shipping, etc. It worked fine but there was a lot of pedal free-play, so I added the missing slave cylinder spring, bled and adjusted, and now all is good in the clutch world.
Installed the new license plate lights after rustproofing/painting the brackets and mounting area on the frame.
Interior rear view mirror was pretty beat with a home brew mounting clip, so I grabbed the one I had replaced on my 60, transferred the mounting clip and mirror onto the the 45 arm and installed . Found the stabilizer and cover on PartSouq, and added them to the growing list.
The truck only has a driver side 3 point seat belt, so I need to get access to the area behind the seats in order to plan/measure/install the added passenger side belt, and to be able to remove the seat to get it recovered and to be able to remove the floor liner to rustproof/ insulate the cab floor. So the seat has to move forward to get to the rear mounting bolts. The adjuster/lock lever worked fine, but the slides were locked up tight at fully back, which is where they will live as legroom is at a premium in the 45, but for now they need to move forward. After considerable wrestling, I was able to get just enough movement to get to the rear bolts with a swivel socket and get the seat out. After a similar wrestling process to remove the slides from the seat bottom, I got the inside slide in the vice. After applying copious amounts of PB blaster, parts cleaner, air pressure and spray silicon grease, and working it back and forth a few hundred times, it was pretty smooth. The same process for the outside adjustable slide took one more additional step to achieve success. I had to remove the blade of one of those reversible screwdrivers that was wedged in the track. After that things were good. Added a seat cover that was in the truck but not installed ( I now know why) that matched the one on the passenger bench, got the seat belt measurements for the wife's side, installed the newly covered, smooth sliding driver's seat, and took some time reflecting on how long it took to do a job that was basically removing 4 bolts.
I was however rewarded for my efforts. In addition to the screwdriver blade, I found two beautiful 1 Ryal Saudi coins.
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- #30
Next effort was to remove the drive plates on the front axle and replace them with selectable Aisin hubs. Pretty straight forward process with no major ugly surprises. The driver's side had the start of diff oil migration, so a knuckle rebuild is now on the growing list of fun stuff.
Next was removal of the passenger side rear axle in order to pull the hub and replace the broken wheel stud. Again, no surprises, but there was a bit of diff oil in the bearings, but as they looked fine I just reassembled and will push that rebuild project down the line. There is a ongoing difference of opinion as to the merits of having the inner seal intact and the bearings grease lubricated, or not worrying about the integrity of the seal and having the diff oil lube the bearings. I won't be putting many miles on the truck in the near future, so I am OK to let that work wait until I make a decision. Probably gonna go the way Mr. T did it.
Next job was to baseline fluids. Both tranny and transfer were drained and filled with StaLube 90W GL4 oil. Drained oil looked good, with just a little gray goo on the magnets. Front and rear diff got Napa 80W90 GL5. No metal on the magnets except for the little bit of gray goo. Rear diff oil looked good, but the front was nasty with water infiltration. Both diffs have the factory breathers, so both will get raised remote breathers pretty soon. Engine oil was drained, and looked pretty new. Napa filter and Costco 15w40 heavy duty diesel oil finished that chore. I am waiting on coolant drain as I want to drain, flush and then install the extended radiator drain, aftermarket heater, and new water pump with fan clutch (one of @Meshal goodies).
Next was removal of the passenger side rear axle in order to pull the hub and replace the broken wheel stud. Again, no surprises, but there was a bit of diff oil in the bearings, but as they looked fine I just reassembled and will push that rebuild project down the line. There is a ongoing difference of opinion as to the merits of having the inner seal intact and the bearings grease lubricated, or not worrying about the integrity of the seal and having the diff oil lube the bearings. I won't be putting many miles on the truck in the near future, so I am OK to let that work wait until I make a decision. Probably gonna go the way Mr. T did it.
Next job was to baseline fluids. Both tranny and transfer were drained and filled with StaLube 90W GL4 oil. Drained oil looked good, with just a little gray goo on the magnets. Front and rear diff got Napa 80W90 GL5. No metal on the magnets except for the little bit of gray goo. Rear diff oil looked good, but the front was nasty with water infiltration. Both diffs have the factory breathers, so both will get raised remote breathers pretty soon. Engine oil was drained, and looked pretty new. Napa filter and Costco 15w40 heavy duty diesel oil finished that chore. I am waiting on coolant drain as I want to drain, flush and then install the extended radiator drain, aftermarket heater, and new water pump with fan clutch (one of @Meshal goodies).
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- #31
In keeping with my no schedule, arbitrary approach to deciding what to do on the truck next, I decided to install 3 point seat belts as there was only a semi- functioning 3 point one for the driver and nothing for the passenger. It looks like there were lap belts originally, so lower mounting points were not a problem. The retractor mounting was OK as it used M8 factory bolt at the upper cab/lower cab seam connection. The challenge was to find a decent upper mounting point for the shoulder anchor point connection. The sketchy existing belt used a M6 factory bolt at roof/cab B pillar, which was not going to work for me.
My solution was to steal an installation method from one of the universal seat belt sites THESE INSTRUCTIONS and make my own backing plates. An 1 1/2 plastic plug installed in the access hole is mostly hidden by the installed belt. Not an ideal solution, but a good tradeoff for the safety factor gained.
My solution was to steal an installation method from one of the universal seat belt sites THESE INSTRUCTIONS and make my own backing plates. An 1 1/2 plastic plug installed in the access hole is mostly hidden by the installed belt. Not an ideal solution, but a good tradeoff for the safety factor gained.
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- #32
One thing about this Saudi truck is that any weatherstripping, hinge pads, trim gaskets etc. are pretty much cooked, so a guy can always kill some time replacing them. And with any of our old trucks, there is almost a promise of a surprise with everything.
Did I mention sand?
Just a "quick" gasket replacement of the wiper motor cover gasket
Replacing the door mounted rear view mirror pads for instance.
Did I mention sand?
Replacing the door mounted rear view mirror pads for instance.
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- #33
Finally started on the Dobinson suspension installation. By far the easiest one I have ever done as it seems that the existing components aren't original and not too old. Even the bushings were only mildly stuck.
Pulled two overload leafs out of the rear packs before install based on @wngrog considerable experience.
After settling the suspension back on the ground, I torqued the ubolts and greased the shackles and spring pins. While I had the grease gun in my hand, I decided to lube the rear driveshaft u-joints. This turned into a couple of quality hours of cleaning off the worst deposit I have ever encountered around all of the u joints. This stuff was as hard as concrete and would not flake off at all. It was fully adhered to the metal, and had to be scraped down to nothing before soaking with ZEP would do anything.
I ended up pulling the driveshaft so I could lean into the work. It turns out that this was good as the spyder on the transfer case end was in bad shape, and needs to be replaced.
The skid plate was just as bad.
Pulled two overload leafs out of the rear packs before install based on @wngrog considerable experience.
After settling the suspension back on the ground, I torqued the ubolts and greased the shackles and spring pins. While I had the grease gun in my hand, I decided to lube the rear driveshaft u-joints. This turned into a couple of quality hours of cleaning off the worst deposit I have ever encountered around all of the u joints. This stuff was as hard as concrete and would not flake off at all. It was fully adhered to the metal, and had to be scraped down to nothing before soaking with ZEP would do anything.
I ended up pulling the driveshaft so I could lean into the work. It turns out that this was good as the spyder on the transfer case end was in bad shape, and needs to be replaced.
The skid plate was just as bad.
Nice work on the seat belts. I removed the top and cut access above and came down inside and used an existing hole. However, they are mounted too high so having to figure that out. Yours looks to be at the right height and an easier solution. Looking forward to pictures of yours with the new springs. That is hopefully on my short list.
Jason
Jason
Meshal
SILVER Star
keep up the good work. excited to see the end result.
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- #37
I was all set to do your "remove the top method" as the roof is coming off at some point anyway for gutter treatment, some cosmetic rust work on the inside and weatherstrip replacement, but as I had the existing belt to play with, the combination of the height and the fact that the B pillar mount is a little more forward than ideal pushed me to go the way I did.
Love to see the progress! This is giving me motivation to dig into my 45. Suspension install this weekend along with TRE
@Meshal can you please send me a DM? I have a question and do not want to derail this thread
@Meshal can you please send me a DM? I have a question and do not want to derail this thread
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- #39
Since the rear driveshaft had a bad u-joint, and the truck had drive plates on the front axle, I thought it made sense to pull the front one and check it as well. It was also so caked with cooked on muck that I probably would not have been able to tell if it was taking grease or not. So both drive shafts went to the spa for cleaning, painting, and new nuts and bolts, and the new u-joint on the rear shaft. The joint on the right of the picture is at stage one scraping, ready for wire wheel, more scaping, Zep soak clean, brake cleaner paint prep, prime and 2 coats enamel.
The front Dobinson install went pretty smoothly with no ugly surprises. I added 4 degree shims for caster and also installed the new steering damper. I also dug out and used the front and back U-bolt skid plates from @65swb45 that were on the 40 until they got replaced a few years back by the U- bolt flip kits. Trimming and grinding the U-bolts was a bit of a pain, but worth it.
Finally a little cosmetic work, as I replaced the mangled interior door light with one from City Racer with an LED bulb.
The front Dobinson install went pretty smoothly with no ugly surprises. I added 4 degree shims for caster and also installed the new steering damper. I also dug out and used the front and back U-bolt skid plates from @65swb45 that were on the 40 until they got replaced a few years back by the U- bolt flip kits. Trimming and grinding the U-bolts was a bit of a pain, but worth it.
Finally a little cosmetic work, as I replaced the mangled interior door light with one from City Racer with an LED bulb.
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- #40
One addition courtesy of my poor memory on the front suspension install. The spring hanger bracket on the driver's side was rattling against the frame when I got the old spring off. It was cracked at the base that fits under the frame, and had already had a weld repair on the face attachment point on the side.
I drilled out the 3 rivets, handed the bracket to my friend Wayne who does any welding for me that is life/safety related, and went to the parts store for Grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers. Wane worked his magic and I wrestled with threading and tightening nuts inside the frame rail. Another crisis narrowly averted. And yes, I reset the hoist pad after the picture.
I drilled out the 3 rivets, handed the bracket to my friend Wayne who does any welding for me that is life/safety related, and went to the parts store for Grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers. Wane worked his magic and I wrestled with threading and tightening nuts inside the frame rail. Another crisis narrowly averted. And yes, I reset the hoist pad after the picture.