if by torch you mean oxy acetylene
it's not necessary, either mapp or propane should work fine.
destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter destin
- Start date
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if by torch you mean oxy acetylene
it's not necessary, either mapp or propane should work fine.
- Thread starter
- #142
well bought an impact driver...
Things would not budge.
I might need a bigger hammer or need to hit it harder.
Kinda of intimidting, do not want to smack my hands.
Turning the driver in the direction of the bolt and smacking...
Also, how do i go about removing this the indicator column >?
Things would not budge.
I might need a bigger hammer or need to hit it harder.
Kinda of intimidting, do not want to smack my hands.
Turning the driver in the direction of the bolt and smacking...
Also, how do i go about removing this the indicator column >?
I take a Snap-on #3 Phillips 3/8 drive and drive it into the screw with a dead fall hammer. Then take my 18V impact and give it a quick pull. Never had an issue this way. I know most don't have these two tools but it works.
Need my impact and bit?
Need my impact and bit?
- Thread starter
- #144
I have the 3/8 drive impact, do i need to use a "dead fall hammer" ?
I just want to get these damn bolts out, I hate half finished stuff
I happily accept any help i can get
Thanks man
- Thread starter
- #146
Ah nice
Yes i maybe want to give that a whirl
Maybe i should disconnect everything else and have you come out and get the last stubborn bits off
Happy to pay you for your time!
Thanks man
Yes i maybe want to give that a whirl
Maybe i should disconnect everything else and have you come out and get the last stubborn bits off
Happy to pay you for your time!
Thanks man
- Thread starter
- #148
I might hold off and get everything else disconnected this weekend.
Maybe I can pay you to come out one of the ensuing sunday's and help me get those damn windscreen bolts loose
If your busy at that time maybe i can borrow your gear and give it a try
How's your project coming along?
Maybe I can pay you to come out one of the ensuing sunday's and help me get those damn windscreen bolts loose
If your busy at that time maybe i can borrow your gear and give it a try
How's your project coming along?
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
You are soaking those screws from both sides? The tub is pretty easy. The windshield is possible thru the open for the vent. Would pretty messy so make sure you clean it well before painting.
- Thread starter
- #150
Yeah been soaking them on both sides with mousemilk for about a few weeks
I just think those suckers where torqued on tight
The windscreen ones are the ones being a bear.
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Lost ya for a second there...hiding out at the bottom!
Nice work so far! Heat is your friend. You wont start a fire with a propane torch/penetrating oil. (do have an extinguisher handy when ever you play with fire though!!)
Heat will help that oil work in and expand/contract things to help loosen em up. Your stripping/painting anyways so no worry about burning paint.
Heat it up, douse some penetrating oil/pb blaster, let cool, try the impact. You dont have to turn the impact...the hammer will turn it. Just make sure you have it set the correct way. Still wont budge...repeat above.
Nice work so far! Heat is your friend. You wont start a fire with a propane torch/penetrating oil. (do have an extinguisher handy when ever you play with fire though!!)
Heat will help that oil work in and expand/contract things to help loosen em up. Your stripping/painting anyways so no worry about burning paint.
Heat it up, douse some penetrating oil/pb blaster, let cool, try the impact. You dont have to turn the impact...the hammer will turn it. Just make sure you have it set the correct way. Still wont budge...repeat above.
Please keep up this thread, it is a mirror image of what I expect to be going through. I recently bought a 1966 FJ40 and am mulling over my restore options. After considering my options and your thread in particular, I am planning to disassemble the body piece by piece for media blasting/painting, and I intend to paint the frame myself with a rust inhibitor and top coat. My main concern is to avoid messing with the engine/transmission/drive assembly, and I think I can do it this way. Keep up the posts and show me how its done!
- Thread starter
- #153
Thanks guys
I have the weekend off so hopefully i can make some real progress
Any one have any clue how to get the indicator assembly off?
I have the weekend off so hopefully i can make some real progress
Any one have any clue how to get the indicator assembly off?
- Thread starter
- #154
Pulled off the tailgate bits and the tire carrier today:
Looks like the rear sill was replaced at one time...
Wonder if i should order a replacement steel one and have the body guys pop it in before painting...
The bolts on the back seem off, and it might make sense to smooth it out.
The PO said it had some crazy beefy hunting bumper on it a long time ago, hence the bolts and reenforced bit... but who knows.
Both parts of the rear well were replaced at one time it looks like, Gonna see if the body cats can fix it up after they media blast and see what it is like
The wet stuff on the skid plate is just the degreaser pooling up, was cleaning up superficially.
What is the trick on removing this?
Basically all i need to do now is remove pedals, kick vents, and get the windscreen hinges to come loose
Looks like the rear sill was replaced at one time...
Wonder if i should order a replacement steel one and have the body guys pop it in before painting...
The bolts on the back seem off, and it might make sense to smooth it out.
The PO said it had some crazy beefy hunting bumper on it a long time ago, hence the bolts and reenforced bit... but who knows.
Both parts of the rear well were replaced at one time it looks like, Gonna see if the body cats can fix it up after they media blast and see what it is like
The wet stuff on the skid plate is just the degreaser pooling up, was cleaning up superficially.
What is the trick on removing this?
Basically all i need to do now is remove pedals, kick vents, and get the windscreen hinges to come loose
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Can't help you with getting the indicator assembly off...looking forward to an answer myself.
As for the rear sill...DO get a new one installed...would be foolish to do all of this, and skip that part. I'd also get those wheel wells looked at.
Almost there Destin
As for the rear sill...DO get a new one installed...would be foolish to do all of this, and skip that part. I'd also get those wheel wells looked at.
Almost there Destin
- Thread starter
- #156
yeah def
something like this should work yeah?
Toyota LandCruiser Steel Body Parts :eBay Motors (item 120145297801 end time Sep-11-09 18:39:52 PDT)
something like this should work yeah?
Toyota LandCruiser Steel Body Parts :eBay Motors (item 120145297801 end time Sep-11-09 18:39:52 PDT)
- Thread starter
- #157
Actually hard to tell from your original picture...wait till you take the tub off, that might just be something added on that can easily be removed, and a few holes welded up 
Destin,
Those are the cleanest looking pop riveted and bolted patches I've ever seen! No, seriously, they are, someone put a lot of effort into that.
That area of the wheel well is very unusual to me to be a victim of rot. Usually it's in the area of the double wall supports that it starts to go. I would not do aftermarket replacement pieces there, you can find decent used ones that you can cut to fit and weld in.
Rear channel is another story, do your homework on those before you buy. I made mine, from what Iv'e heard that's about the same as getting the replacements to work.
Turn signal switch is clamped on. you can see the slot in the bottom of the housing. There is a phillips (probably frozen) that is in the bottom, perpendicular to the shaft. Loosen the screw, open the slot a little, and it should slide over the end of the column. I believe the turn signal shaft comes with it and isn't attached at the switch. (Could be the other way around though........it's been quite a few years)
Those are the cleanest looking pop riveted and bolted patches I've ever seen!
No, seriously, they are, someone put a lot of effort into that. That area of the wheel well is very unusual to me to be a victim of rot. Usually it's in the area of the double wall supports that it starts to go. I would not do aftermarket replacement pieces there, you can find decent used ones that you can cut to fit and weld in.
Rear channel is another story, do your homework on those before you buy. I made mine, from what Iv'e heard that's about the same as getting the replacements to work.
Turn signal switch is clamped on. you can see the slot in the bottom of the housing. There is a phillips (probably frozen) that is in the bottom, perpendicular to the shaft. Loosen the screw, open the slot a little, and it should slide over the end of the column. I believe the turn signal shaft comes with it and isn't attached at the switch. (Could be the other way around though........it's been quite a few years)
- Thread starter
- #160
Actually hard to tell from your original picture...wait till you take the tub off, that might just be something added on that can easily be removed, and a few holes welded up
Yeah i am thinking the same thing, looked at it more last night, and it looks like a sheet of metal over the steel with a rubber seal between the metal...
Might jsut have been a weird reinforcement...
Need to undo a few body bolts from the bumper to verify.
Good eyes though man, thanks
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