destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread (5 Viewers)

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Destin,

Those are the cleanest looking pop riveted and bolted patches I've ever seen! :D No, seriously, they are, someone put a lot of effort into that.

That area of the wheel well is very unusual to me to be a victim of rot. Usually it's in the area of the double wall supports that it starts to go. I would not do aftermarket replacement pieces there, you can find decent used ones that you can cut to fit and weld in.

Rear channel is another story, do your homework on those before you buy. I made mine, from what Iv'e heard that's about the same as getting the replacements to work.

Turn signal switch is clamped on. you can see the slot in the bottom of the housing. There is a phillips (probably frozen) that is in the bottom, perpendicular to the shaft. Loosen the screw, open the slot a little, and it should slide over the end of the column. I believe the turn signal shaft comes with it and isn't attached at the switch. (Could be the other way around though........it's been quite a few years)


Thanks man :D
I think i wait too see what the story is once they media blast the wheel well area like you mentioned. Might be ok with a little cosmetic work :)
However if someone has a hacked up tub around that year that wants to sell me those 2 bits of metal let me know :D


As for the indicator assembly, seems pretty rigid, i did remove the bolt.
The turn signal shaft came off pretty easy however like you mentioned.

It seems as though i need to remove that big bearing metal bit in order to remove the indicator assembly from the steering shaft...
Yeah, no?
I am hesitant to force anything as i do not want anything to break ;)

// edit
It actually slipped right over with a little persuasion, thanks for the heads up man!



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ok took the pedals out :D


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Here is a question about the rear seal

Took off the weird bolts of metal and look like it was jsut there for reinforcement, likely non stock :D

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very likely there can be jsut welded and blended?

Also, in the sill it looks like doubled steel bolted on, I am guessing this is not stock for a tail gate model? Should i pull it of and put in a new sill? Or jsut leave it? Looks really solid.

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Was it stock to have steel sills bolted like that for tail gate models? Or were they flush welded in the bed?
 
Took off the weird bolts of metal and look like it was jsut there for reinforcement, likely non stock :D

very likely there can be jsut welded and blended?

Also, in the sill it looks like doubled steel bolted on, I am guessing this is not stock for a tail gate model? Should i pull it of and put in a new sill? Or jsut leave it? Looks really solid.

Was it stock to have steel sills bolted like that for tail gate models? Or were they flush welded in the bed?


None of this was stock. I would remove it all. If there is rust in the original sill and it's covered it is going to come thru at some point. The rear sill of the tailgate models was not made any different than the barn door models. If it were me I would remove any thing that was a patch and repair it correctly. Years ago repairs were made on this old cruisers not with the idea of restoring but just keeping them on the road. Now it's time to decide what you want to do. looks to me your going to restore the cruiser not just trying to keep it on the road.
 
None of this was stock. I would remove it all. If there is rust in the original sill and it's covered it is going to come thru at some point. The rear sill of the tailgate models was not made any different than the barn door models. If it were me I would remove any thing that was a patch and repair it correctly. Years ago repairs were made on this old cruisers not with the idea of restoring but just keeping them on the road. Now it's time to decide what you want to do. looks to me your going to restore the cruiser not just trying to keep it on the road.

Cool thanks for the confirmation :D

I will finish removing it this week and see what it is like underneath.
Loooks repairable so far, not too bad yeah?

Thanks :D
 
Looks very repairable so far...nothing that a good body man couldn't simply weld up with small patches. Should look like new when done :)
 
Ya for sure pull those funny patch panels. That rear sill may even still be ok under there!
By the looks of the rest of the rig I am real surprised/puzzled by the fenderwell patches as well!
I would try to find someone with a tub to cut up and cut what you need from it. Your rig is way to clean to leave riveted on patches though they do add character! ;)
 
ok pulled off the metal, looks like ti was one outter and one layer inner.

this is what it looks like with the whole sill removed:

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And this is with the inner steel bit just popped in...
I could either weld this bit in and make it all smooth.
Or order a new one from ccot ?

what do you guys think?

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Ya for sure pull those funny patch panels. That rear sill may even still be ok under there!
By the looks of the rest of the rig I am real surprised/puzzled by the fenderwell patches as well!
I would try to find someone with a tub to cut up and cut what you need from it. Your rig is way to clean to leave riveted on patches though they do add character! ;)

If you know anyone with a donor tub that will hook me up with those fender wall bits let me know :D

Yeah I have no clue why that was patched, I cannot imagine it was rusted, judging from the rest of the rig.
 
I dont think it would look to bad if you use the existing or a similar sized chunk o steel...but its not quite "right". I can snap ya a couple pics but im not sure if my 69 with swing out doors is going to be the same.
 
I dont think it would look to bad if you use the existing or a similar sized chunk o steel...but its not quite "right". I can snap ya a couple pics but im not sure if my 69 with swing out doors is going to be the same.

hmmm ok :)

So CCOT replacement sill would be more correct in look etc?

Thanks :D
 
I know nothing on the CCOT sill. There is also Oscar...he might have a nice sill, but I forget the link to his site, and no...I do not know anything about the quality of his work, but it looks great.

Either way, I'd do it properly now, or else you'll be kicking yourself later on :doh:
 
ha, we must have posted at the same time. Looking forward to seeing the progress of the sill...I need one also :rolleyes:
 
That piece is an important part of the body. Not as bad on the soft top but it is the piece that supports the rear of the tub. The 61 hard top I just picked this piece is all rusted out. The top of the barn doors don't line up because of the weight of the sides and top pushing down. The part of the tub that the barn hinges attach is angling out at the top. The wider the replacement piece the better it will support the rear of the tub. You will notice all four of your rear body mounts attached the tub to the frame thru this piece. What ever you do make sure the rear opening is square when installing the replacement.
 
cool guys thanks :)

I will make sure the body shop welds it in center, and makes sure their is no skewing etc.

All I need to do now is:

1) remove the body mount bolts
2) remove the windscreen hinges ( stubborn )
3) remove the shifting shaft ( i think i do at least to remove the tub... )
 
more pics

These windscreen hinge bolts and hood bolts will not budge!
I guess i need to get a propane torch and heat cycle them...
If that does not work I guess i have to rely on the body shop to get em free... :(

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How do I remove the shifting shaft? ( i imagine this need to come off to take the tub off.. do you guys usually pull the tub over the steering wheel shaft?

I backed of a nut on the shifting shaft, but it does not seem to come out easily..

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tub shot

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