destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

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Heya

So i did this today:

1) made sure my heat riser valve was not locked into the wrong position ( was locked off blowing heat into the intake before today )

2) fixed a vacuum leak off the carb insulator PCV nipple.

3) adjusted the points to .0018 ( or what ever the increment is for the feeler ;) )

4) dwell at 39 degrees

6) advance a few degrees advance of BTDC ( stock bearing aligned with needle )

7) lean dropped the carb.

does this vacuum flickr seem ok? ( sorry s***ty video )

YouTube - P1014307.MOV


I will post a cold start vacuum once the beast cools down later tonight
 
I don't think I'd worry about that waver. It is probably normal. Check out scenarios 11 and 3 on this page. You look like you are at 19 right now, right? Blurry picture or my eyes are just old! :D

How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

You might advance your timing another hair or so and see what you get, too.
 
cool man, thanks for the link :D

Yeah 19 pounds, after a little rev it settles to around 20ish...

I try to give it a little more advance to morrow and see what it nets. right now the bearing is between the needle and the lower part of the timing window/bell housing hole.

On another note, if mess with the metering height ( accelerator pump, adjusted by the c-clip that connects the throttle linkage and the accelerator pump rod by bending it closer or further ) can i get more power ? or should i leave well enough alone?

I did crimp it slightly ( closed the "c" slightly ) , but that was possibly to compensate for another problem that hopefully has been sorted now ( head gasket blew most recently )
 
this is the bit i meant

how far should the metering rod end fit into the dished part of the metering rod jet?
Is there a rule of thumb, and would this effect overall power, say in 3rd gear on hills etc?

destincarb4.jpg
 
After messing with it myself, lately, I would point out that the "C" clip, as you call it, primarily adjusts the stroke of the accelerator pump plunger. Do that first. Then, if you need to, bend the counter arm to set the metering rod depth correctly. To do that, you need to have a carb kit for that carb (I don't) or guess correctly. Or ask Mark what it should be.

The octane selector is a way to fine-tune the advance should you change gasolines from your normal gas setting. I don't mess with it. Just try to use the same (Non-ethanol!) gas.
 
Destin, if you want to get the optimum carb set-up for your engine you can use a color tune spark plug. This is a sparkplug with a glas window in it. You can place it temporary in your engine, for 6 cil. carb engine in 2 or/and 5, and adjust until the combustion just turns blue. You will never get all 6 blue because there is a difference in distance between 1/6 and 3/4 from the carb. This also explains for the flicker in vacuum at idlle.
It is important to have the ignition timing right before color tuning.

The carb is placed on the engine in a way that the engine gets a litlle bit more fuel when going up the hill and less when going down, there is no way you can adjust that its just the position of the float chamber to the barrel.

acceleration pump only gives extra fuell when pushing the throtlle, and just for a burst so adjusting it is neccesary when you have a gap when starting to accelerate.
 
Destin,..You are way too worried about this thing,you need to drive and get some real miles on the engine,at least 5000 miles for things to settle in.I understand your worry after what you have been thru,but I think you are out of the woods now,my first 45 had the original f in it and to this day I have never had a more reliable,better running engine and all I needed to do was oil,valves,and points ,timing every so often to keep it happy.These engines are better left alone once they are in tune.It will never be a new modern injected engine!! Truck looks awesome,start enjoying it and keep the hood closed!!:) Still looking for your good 5th hubcap!
 
Oh ,yeah,engine and chassis grounds are crucial for proper charging and generators dont do much at idle!they need rpm.Your vacuum looks fine,let the engine break in and do the valve adj after 1000 miles,probably the source of the vacuum flutter...No worries mate...
 
Awesome thanks guys :D

Yeha I been kinda nervous since all that has happened, but I hope all is good now :D

Time to get some miles on this beast :D

Gonna do my own valve adjustment next once i get some more miles on it, I want to be able to do it all my self, and that is the only missing element, points timing and the other s***e is in the bag :D

Bought a point file today for on going maintenance :D

Sprayed carb cleaner all over the manifold and carb etc today, nada vacuum leaks, all should be good :)

Advance at between the needle and bottom of the bell housing seem ok to you guys?

points at .0018, dwell at 39ish, timing I am guessing around 4 over the 7 degrees BTDC :)

Gonna just keep reading my plugs periodically to see how she is running :D

My wife nicknamed my ride "Foolish Carriage" from that old movie "cheaper by the dozen" haha :D
 
Destin, for God's sake drive the cruiser and let it break in a bit.

Advance ok you ask? How does it drive? If it drives great then it is good...

Don't take out a plug unless you drive 3K miles between checks. Things won't change that quickly. If things do change uber rapidly then it will likely be catastrophic and checking won't let you know anyway.
Use the points file as an emergency bail out tool. Points are cheap and usually are plated to prevent corrosion. If, for some reason, they get burnt a file will let you clean things up and get you home. But the plating will be gone and the points predisposed to failure/burning.

The beauty of old engines is their ability to operate adequately and dependably over a large range of maladjustment, parts wear and other factors the engineers could not control nor monitor at the time. They do sacrifice some efficiency in doing so but then we don't have to deal with dozens of sensors or computers. Just think like Goober on the Andy Griffith Show rather than a mechanic on an F1 team.

Good luck and enjoy.

P.S. if you really want to tinker with carb setting, timing, and a host of other adjustments get an old Jaguar with the V-12 engine. Or perhaps a Ferrari with a similarly complex engine. It would be fun and in the case of the latter, not cost you too much once you balance out repair costs versus vehicle appreciation.

P.P.S. Feel free to ignore all of the above too. ;)
 
haha true enough Bill

Gonna leave it be, it is running pretty well, just need to hammer the motor in :)

last little thing i am gonna do is this ( which is not messing with tuning anymore )
I tested a few thing though :)

so itested the vacuum advance by removing the vacuum line form the carb side, then sucking on that line while running, the idle went up, all good there.

Removed the vacuum line form the dizzy side and hooked it up to the carb side, , no vacuum at idle, ( normal ) and when i rev it i have vacuum, all good there....


So i started thinking, what could cause a little loss of power?

A little history, PO had made a PCV fitting in the based of the front of the throttle body/base, and was running no riser.
I put in a riser/ insulator from Mark ( thanks Mark ) and capped the old one by putting a rubber hose with the other end sealed..., but i megan thinking,,,... could that rubber hose cap cuase some weird disturbances in the carb to cause fuel to burn funny, like running air and fuel past a capped but empy space, of course it woudl wonk stuff right>?

So i crimped the hose closer to the old PCV tapped by the PO, seemed to be more POWER :)
So my plan is to get a nut or screw to seal up that old PCV the PO had tapped, removing any chance of a weird mixture air disturbance in the throttle body. Mark had told me to do this before but i rednecked the fix with my hose cap hehe.

Gawd i am an idiot, hopefully this will give me a better power range.
I guess the proof will be once i close that old PCV properly eh?

What you guys think? ( other than me being an asshat ) :D
 
have the heat riser in the manifold moving smoothly, little penatrating oil and movement, then new pins on either side of the rotating shaft that bisects the manifold :) Added some high heat lithium grease in there too hopefully keep things moving smoothly.


Tough bit it getting the metal thermostatic coil that operates the vavle to tighten and loosen with theheat cycles ( close and open the valve )

Right now the hotter it gets the stronger the snap to hot, which is good. Truth will come out tomorrow morning when things cool to see if the thermo static coil has enough tension on cooling to move it into the position where it blows hot air into the intake :)

Would be awesome of they still made these thermo static coils, as these are prolly 40 years old at least.
Anyone know of a source for them outside of the cruiser world?

happy halloween guys :)
 
destin said:
i wonder if the key to finding ... [obsolete landcruiser parts] ... is jsut buy NOS for a dif vehicle type?
Click to expand...
naw, I've never done that :idea:
 
middlecalf said:
naw, I've never done that :idea:
Click to expand...

:D

I found one on ebay for 20 bucks, looks identical :D

I could i guess experiment with shortening the existing coil to get the desired results too... hmmm, gonna have to experiment

checked the truck cold, the bounce back/ tension on the coil was not enough to pull it back, but it did not have any resistance up!

So a good start :D
 
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