destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

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yeah i have a "if its sunny the top is off" policy :D

The wife is less fond of this policy because she is kinda a nancy ;)

Yeha man hit me up about the next get together for sure :D

When i put the top back on I will post up photos :D
 
horn

Cruiser_Nerd said:
It looks like you've got the horn button broken down as far as it goes. Rechrome that piece, then repaint the center with black enamel. The easiest way I found to do that was to lay the enamel on and then take a rag with some acetone hold it steady on the edge and spin the piece. Much easier than attempting to tape it off. The retainer ring is stainless and should only need a polish.
Click to expand...
Destin- did you have to do anything to the "guts" of your horn (inside steering wheel), or was it working in place and you just tidied up the horn button (#1)? I may have all of the pieces I need to restore my horn to the horn button (vice a button on the dash right now), but I haven't been able to quite figure out all of the pieces. I have everything in the pic except #2 (wonder if a flat washer would work for this - and I have to pull the steering wheel to see if I have #6 (which if I don't will probably be a deal breaker unless someone has an extra floating around).

Another thing, I can only find one exit hole for any wire coming out of the steering column, and that is down by the break pedal (there is a rubber grommet, pretty much a goner, but no wire come out). Is that where the horn wire comes out?

Anybody else with knowledge please chime in. Thanks.
horn parts.gif
horn parts II.gif
 
middlecalf said:
Destin- did you have to do anything to the "guts" of your horn (inside steering wheel), or was it working in place and you just tidied up the horn button (#1)? I may have all of the pieces I need to restore my horn to the horn button (vice a button on the dash right now), but I haven't been able to quite figure out all of the pieces. I have everything in the pic except #2 (wonder if a flat washer would work for this - and I have to pull the steering wheel to see if I have #6 (which if I don't will probably be a deal breaker unless someone has an extra floating around).

Another thing, I can only find one exit hole for any wire coming out of the steering column, and that is down by the break pedal (there is a rubber grommet, pretty much a goner, but no wire come out). Is that where the horn wire comes out?

Anybody else with knowledge please chime in. Thanks.
Click to expand...

hehe yeah my wire was missing down by the steering column ;)
I do not have my horn hooked up right now, but might try to get that s*** working proper down the road :)
 
quick question

Noticed my vacuum stays steady after warm up at 19 pounds, BUT, has a micro flicker in it...

Now Being paranoid with a new motor i want to make sure i do not have a vacuum leak...

i spray the s*** out of the carb every where, no effect on the vacuum.

i sprayed around the PCV nipple off the aluminum carb riser( bit between the manifold and carb base )

and my vacuum dives down to 15 pounds and you can see it burning white out the exhaust...

made sure the the leak is not happening between the riser and the manifold, and the carb and the riser...
Seems to be happening right at the part where the nipple for the PCV screws into the aluminum carb riser....

I tried to put some lithium tape and screw it back in, and while this helped a little, the vacuum still drops when i hose carb cleaner around the PVC nipple.

What should i put in the PVC nipple to make sure that is sealed up nice?

Also, pulled the plugs and this is how they look, look good, or seem lean?

( sorry bad cell photos )
5108100341_8ff4073c3c_o.jpg

5108698214_5180077e2a_o.jpg

5108100341_8ff4073c3c_o.jpg


also pulled the cap off the hickley sidewinder, lots of water and rusty sludge in the, looks like i have some work to do :)

5108698224_667575b940_o.jpg

5108700048_a6a5154433_o.jpg
 
middlecalf said:
I have to pull the steering wheel to see if I have #6 (which if I don't will probably be a deal breaker unless someone has an extra floating around).

Another thing, I can only find one exit hole for any wire coming out of the steering column, and that is down by the break pedal (there is a rubber grommet, pretty much a goner, but no wire come out). Is that where the horn wire comes out?
Click to expand...

#6 is also the steering column bushing, I would be surprised if it wasn't there at all. If it's in really bad shape PM me. Yes, the wire comes out the hole in your column, it's probably broken right inside they tend to break at the grommet. I believe #2 is just a flat washer.
 
destin said:
I tried to put some lithium tape and screw it back in, and while this helped a little, the vacuum still drops when i hose carb cleaner around the PVC nipple.

What should i put in the PVC nipple to make sure that is sealed up nice?

Also, pulled the plugs and this is how they look, look good, or seem lean?
Click to expand...

Destin-

Make sure the nipple for the PCV valve isn't split or something. If you can't get it to seal you'll need to get pipe sealant for oil lines at a real plumbing supply, I think it's blue. Teflon tape won't hold up. Not sure what that aluminum riser setup is, but if it's not a tapered thread it won't seal.

Plug looks good but it's hard to see. Obviously not rich, so you want to keep an eye out for glazing (shiny surfaces) or melting (rounding of the electrodes).

If you don't want to take on a rebuild of the winch PM me, I've got one sitting on the floor I'll probably never use, I'd have to open it to be sure it doesn't look the same. :bang:

And for those not as brave as you........................please put something on your fender when working in there............ :eek:
 
Cruiser_Nerd said:
Destin-

Make sure the nipple for the PCV valve isn't split or something. If you can't get it to seal you'll need to get pipe sealant for oil lines at a real plumbing supply, I think it's blue. Teflon tape won't hold up. Not sure what that aluminum riser setup is, but if it's not a tapered thread it won't seal.

Plug looks good but it's hard to see. Obviously not rich, so you want to keep an eye out for glazing (shiny surfaces) or melting (rounding of the electrodes).

If you don't want to take on a rebuild of the winch PM me, I've got one sitting on the floor I'll probably never use, I'd have to open it to be sure it doesn't look the same. :bang:

And for those not as brave as you........................please put something on your fender when working in there............ :eek:
Click to expand...

Ugh i know i should have put a rag down under that socket :D

The aluminum riser is from mark, dunno if it is tapered but it will let you screw it all the way till is flush with the riser... maybe it is a bad one?

So find some high heat oil line pipe sealant and put it on the threads and screw in and let it set up?

Is the PVC valve it self on the nipple at the opposite end of the PCV hose where it connects to the oil tower that you put oil in the engine? The valve it self is not carb side of the PCV hose right?
Are you just referring to the PCV nipple that is threaded into the aluminum carb insulator/riser yeah?

Yeah i really want to fix that sidewinder winch, I hope it is not all that bad :D

If i cannot get it apart and together and working I might take you up on that :D

Let me know if I am going in the right direction using oil line sealant on the carb PCV nipple that screws into the aluminum carb insulator. Or if you think maybe it is not tapered properly and i need to get another one ( maybe it stripped the taper? )


Thanks again man :D
 
destin said:
Ugh i know i should have put a rag down under that socket :D

The aluminum riser is from mark, dunno if it is tapered but it will let you screw it all the way till is flush with the riser...
Click to expand...

Fender protector. :lol:

Mark should know off hand, I've never held one of those in my hands. A tapered thread should tighten up before it's all the way buried. A straight thread would need a gasketed surface to seal. Maybe a good picture would help, or douse it in sealant and let it harden. :hillbilly:

PCV valve itself is where it belongs, on the other end of the hose on the oil filler pipe.
 
Cruiser_Nerd said:
Fender protector. :lol:

Mark should know off hand, I've never held one of those in my hands. A tapered thread should tighten up before it's all the way buried. A straight thread would need a gasketed surface to seal. Maybe a good picture would help, or douse it in sealant and let it harden. :hillbilly:

PCV valve itself is where it belongs, on the other end of the hose on the oil filler pipe.
Click to expand...

:D

I will douse it with sealant if it will hold up :D

Mark probably told me to use sealant and I spaced it :)
Or I somehow stripped the tapper tightening it :D

Either way, some high heat oil sealant it is :D
 
hehe ok I must have striiped the taper or something somewhere down the line, the nipple when threaded wobbles in the hole slightly ;)
I put some in the upper threads and put it back in.
Not gonna drive it until i can buy a new insulator form Mark.

Could have happened when the manifold etc was off the motor for the head, as it was solid before that.

Cool, will call Mark tomorrow :)
 
Just weld it up and drill a new hole or plug it and drill in an other spot. They probably bend it when removing or refitting the manifold. If you go to a machine shop they can weld it close in a minute than drill and tap and you are ready to go.:meh:
 
heheyeah i am no pro there :)

question, for those of you running f135 with stock 1bbl carbs, with heat riser valve in the hot/closed position. On start up, cold, does your :

1) vacuum stay 3-4 pounds lower than at operating temperature?
2) does it waver a pound ( flicker a pound or so ) until it gets to operating temperature?

Could this just be a vacuum lek that goes away once warm?
( could be the vacuum leak i have now at the pcv nipple on the insulator, but it did this a bit before i noticed that. )

What ya guys think?

Again heat riser valve pegged off in the operating temperature setting.
 
Last edited:
update :)

called up mark and he helped me trouble shoot some stuff, cannot thank you enough man :)
Ended up used high heat JB weld in the threads of the PCV nipple off the insulator to see if I could sort the vacuum leak that way, letting it set over night right now :)

Check the PCV valve ( shook it and the bearing was moving, so that is in good operating order :)

Then i pulled the exhaust off the exhaust manifold, because i had a sneaking suspicion that the engine shop locked it off in the open position, and i was right , take a look:

5115638247_32a8486ff0_o.jpg


so I repositioned the heat riser check so i could move it into the closed/ operating temperature position, and this is as far as it would close ( a total bitch to do when assembled ) Is this closed enough to run properly? or do i need to persuade it more?

5116240548_7dccdec59b_o.jpg


regardless having it open and blowing heat up into my intake was probably messing up the fuel mixture as well as robbing me of power correct?

Thanks again fellas :)
 
Yours doesn't look right to me (square peg in round hole kind of thing), but I'm not an expert...
 
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