Denver Area Mechanic Recomendation - FJ80 Starting Issue

Joined
Jun 19, 2019
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7
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Denver, CO
Hi Guys,

Pretty new to ih8mud but I’m impressed by the community!

I picked up a 1991 FJ80 earlier this year and have been working with my mechanic to solve a starting issue it’s been having. Basically, sometimes the truck will crank and crank but not start. I haven’t been able to exactly identify what the conditions are that cause the scenario. If it isn’t starting, it usually just has to site for about a day and then it will start up. Once it’s going, it runs without any problems.

So far we’ve replaced spark plugs, distributor cap, wiring harness, and as of a few days ago, the fuel pump. Even with all the new compononents, the problem persists.

I’m wondering if anyone has had a similar issue, and could recommend a Denver area mechanic who may have solved this problem before? I think my mechanic is great, but I’m wondering if there is a fellow mudder out there who just might know a little more based on experience.

Thanks for any help!
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
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Sounds like your mechanic should look at the starting circuit instead of the plugs, there is a write up in the FAQ for no starts. You have Slee or Robbie both know 80s better then most. Plus there is handful of cruiser and Toyota shops in Denver area
 
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Sounds like your mechanic should look at the starting circuit instead of the plugs, there is a write up in the FAQ for no starts. You have Slee or Robbie both know 80s better then most. Plus there is handful of cruiser and Toyota shops in Denver area
OP says that the engine will crank but not fire. Starter circuit is fine.
Is the CHECK ENGINE light (CEL) illuminated when you turn the key to the ON/RUN position BEFORE you crank the starter? NO CEL=NO START.
 

SUMMIT CRUISERS

SILVER Star
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When it doesn’t start do you have spark? If so then fuel related. Check pressure via access at where the cold start injector line enters the fuel rail. Autozone rents the fuel pressure test kit for free. Should have around 45 psi.
 
Joined
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If you need a shop, try Japanese Auto Service. The times I have called Slee for maintenance repairs they send me here instead, and some of the guys here used to be Slee guys.
Great! I will give them a call. Thanks for recommendation.

And thanks to everyone for the responses! Unfortunately I’m fairly novice when it comes diagnosing tricky things like this so I’ll try and find a pro to solve this one. I’ll let you all know what we figure out.
 
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Messages
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OP says that the engine will crank but not fire. Starter circuit is fine.
Is the CHECK ENGINE light (CEL) illuminated when you turn the key to the ON/RUN position BEFORE you crank the starter? NO CEL=NO START.
I was able to confirm this today. This morning it started and I checked and confirmed that the CEL was on before it started. Later in day, I tried to start it again and the CEL was not on, and the truck did not start.

Does this point to one problem in particular? Or narrow it down?
 
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I was able to confirm this today. This morning it started and I checked and confirmed that the CEL was on before it started. Later in day, I tried to start it again and the CEL was not on, and the truck did not start.

Does this point to one problem in particular? Or narrow it down?
No CEL=No start. Without the CEL illuminated, there's no point in even cranking the starter.
No CEL means that your ECU is not in a "ready" state. There will be no spark.
Possible causes are:
Fusible links:

EFI Relay and associated wiring:
 
Joined
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Messages
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Denver, CO
No CEL=No start. Without the CEL illuminated, there's no point in even cranking the starter.
No CEL means that your ECU is not in a "ready" state. There will be no spark.
Possible causes are:
Fusible links:

EFI Relay and associated wiring:
Thank you! Just ordered a new fusible link (2 per witsend's recommendation, 1 for a backup) and will try it out in a few days once it's arrived.
 
Joined
Jun 19, 2019
Messages
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Denver, CO
No CEL=No start. Without the CEL illuminated, there's no point in even cranking the starter.
No CEL means that your ECU is not in a "ready" state. There will be no spark.
Possible causes are:
Fusible links:

EFI Relay and associated wiring:
I put in the new fusible link and the LC started right up. Unfortunately I only made it about 300 ft before it died on me. I went over a speed bump and experienced what felt like “running out of gas”. After that, no CEL and no start. I’m starting to wonder if I’ve got multiple problems haha? Any ideas on what to look at after the fusible link?
 

ppc

M Go Blue
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You obviously have an intermittent short in a wiring harness somewhere that is causing the fusible link to blow as designed by Mr T. I'd say you have only one root cause to your problem.

One possible cause could be the wiring harness that feeds the O2 sensors. Those harnesses run in a location close to the exhaust and the heat will destroy the split loom, other insulation and the plastic harness support clips. Lots of metal to short against.
 
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I replaced my fusible links first when this happened to me, but that did not correct the problem. I eventually (through the expertise of jonheld) narrowed it down to my EFI Relay. The only thing that is not similar is that my LC never died while driving. I would pull into a 711 in Japan, get some grub, and then it wouldn't start back up. Used to take my EFI Relay (OEM Metal relay) out using gloves because it was so hot and go put it in the 711 freezer to cool it down. Always started up right after that. In the end, swapping to the camry (corolla?) plastic EFI relay that jonheld recommends completely eliminated the problem for me. I'd recommend at least trying that.
 
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I replaced my fusible links first when this happened to me, but that did not correct the problem. I eventually (through the expertise of jonheld) narrowed it down to my EFI Relay. The only thing that is not similar is that my LC never died while driving. I would pull into a 711 in Japan, get some grub, and then it wouldn't start back up. Used to take my EFI Relay (OEM Metal relay) out using gloves because it was so hot and go put it in the 711 freezer to cool it down. Always started up right after that. In the end, swapping to the camry (corolla?) plastic EFI relay that jonheld recommends completely eliminated the problem for me. I'd recommend at least trying that.
Do you have any links to the EFI relay chat? That seems like something affecting my rig but don’t want to take the OP off track.

I think I found it:
 
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Jan 9, 2004
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I have a had a few starting issues with 3fe's . Depending on the mileage I would check the intake flap at the airbox and make sure it is not getting stuck in it's closed position. If you have the starting issue again I would remove the intake tube at the AFM and actuate the flap inside to pressurize the fuel rail. Then re-assemble and try to start. Sometimes you need to adjust the flap a bit just off of completely closed so that it won't get stuck. Not saying it is the problem but it could cause some of the starting issues you are having.
 
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Another vote to check 02 sensor wiring. Mine shorted to ground and it blew the EFI fuse, resulting in a no start. It was the first/only time the engine died while I was driving (thankfully slowly on a dirt road). Quick forum search on my phone led me to disconnect the 02 sensor, replace the fuse and I was back on my way, I later repaired the short in the comfort of my driveway.
 
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If you need a shop, try Japanese Auto Service. The times I have called Slee for maintenance repairs they send me here instead, and some of the guys here used to be Slee guys.
I second Japanese Auto Service. They were recommended to me by Slee. They did great work and were in constant contact with me last time I dropped it off.
 
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