ROTW D'Animal 1976 FJ 40

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I had a coolant leak that I could not find. I was loosing coolant but could not find the leak. I had a spare radiator rebuilt and had the cap put in the top middle of the tank.
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That is EXACTLY why I have my rebuilder remove the drain tubes from ALL the radiators I get rebuilt.

Live and learn.

:cheers:
 
I guess when I get this one rebuilt, I will ask my rebuilder to do the same. It is just as easy to pull the bottom radiator hose to drain the fluid.


65swb45 said:
That is EXACTLY why I have my rebuilder remove the drain tubes from ALL the radiators I get rebuilt.

Live and learn.

:cheers:
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Now I'm having running issues. It starts and idles fine. Once it gets warmed up after about 15 minutes of driving it does not idle. It runs at 2,800 RPM. Let it cool down at a gas station for awhile and it starts up and idles fine but behaves the same when it gets warm.

Time to start diagnosing all the emmission stuff.
 
D'Animal said:
Now I'm having running issues. It starts and idles fine. Once it gets warmed up after about 15 minutes of driving it does not idle. It runs at 2,800 RPM. Let it cool down at a gas station for awhile and it starts up and idles fine but behaves the same when it gets warm.

Time to start diagnosing all the emmission stuff.
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Are you saying it idles at 2800rpm, or that it will not idle, and will only stay running at 2800rpm?:confused:
 
D'Animal said:
I'm still new to ih8mud so please forgive some of my picture postings.
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Still new to IH8MUD, you say. Just how many posts a day did it take you to pass 10,000?
 
65swb45 said:
Are you saying it idles at 2800rpm, or that it will not idle, and will only stay running at 2800rpm?:confused:
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I guess it will not idle down. The throttle cable is loose and not bound up holding the carb open. I am thinking it is a something in the emmission stuff that I bolted on it.
 
D'Animal said:
I guess it will not idle down. The throttle cable is loose and not bound up holding the carb open. I am thinking it is a something in the emmission stuff that I bolted on it.
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Is the return spring stretched out?
 
Hey Dan,

Are you still running 35s on you're 'cruiser? It looks like you haven't cut your fenders, so I was wondering what all you did to be able to run that big of a tire without tearing things up? (How much longer on the bump stops, how long are your shackles, etc.) I really like how 35's look, but don't want to lose much articulation or sheet metal. Just wondering if it's possible and what it takes if so.

Nice and functional looking rig btw!
 
It is the rig we use around the farm and neighborhood.

I have the 4" SOR Lift (Spector Off Road). I had to install a 2" Man a fre body lift to make room for the twin stick for the AA RockBox and Orion 3:1.

The rear passenger side tire only rubs when going up twisty windy mountain roads on the highway while loaded down with gear.

Works great but I need to get an anti wrap bar on the rear axle. I have broke 2 rear pinions.

twoturtlesracing said:
Hey Dan,

Are you still running 35s on you're 'cruiser? It looks like you haven't cut your fenders, so I was wondering what all you did to be able to run that big of a tire without tearing things up? (How much longer on the bump stops, how long are your shackles, etc.) I really like how 35's look, but don't want to lose much articulation or sheet metal. Just wondering if it's possible and what it takes if so.

Nice and functional looking rig btw!
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I somehow missed the body lift when I was reading through the list of mods u have done...:doh: Sorry about that. That would definitely help with the clearance.

Did you ever wind up fixing you're bump stops? or was it not a big enough rub problem to worry about?

Thanks again!
 
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