Damnit............what a screwed up design. How to remove? (1 Viewer)

flintknapper

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Diving into replacing my timing belt, water pump, etc....this afternoon.

Got to the Water Inlet/Tstat Housing. Knew it might give some trouble so I took my time with it. Tried and tried to wiggle it around in order to free it up, nothing doing.

Noticed that the last person in there used silicone on the bolts (no big deal) but also on the 'neck' of the housing. It wasn't going to budge. I rocked it back and forth for about 45 minutes making no headway. Finally resolved to snap it off of there....since it wasn't going to come out in one piece anyway.

NOW: How in the devil does one remove the broken off neck that is inside the bore? I have a new housing ordered but need to get the remains of the old part out.

I'm sure I'm not the first to experience this.

Sad part is: All previous work was done at a well known DEALERSHIP in Houston. You would think they would have done it right (no silicone where the O-Ring goes), but no...........

Water Inlet 1.jpg
 

abuck99

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What a mess- Sorry Flint. PO's wrench got a little crazy with the FIPG. That connector should have never had FIPG on it- just the Oring. And the other section should only have only had a tiny 1/8" bead of FIPG around it- going to have to clean that up too.

I'd try to gently dremmel or chisel a cut down the inside in two places then gently pry that section out, then try to pry to rest out. OOOF gonna take a minute to get that done. If in the end you have to replace the bypass good new is that its $68 at PS and is available. 16355-50080
 

e9999

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all the usual brute force mechanical approaches would probably work with patience and aggravation. Or if there is a bit of a gap, maybe a thin sheet of spring steel as a curvy blade?
But before you do that, maybe worth thinking about chemistry? Is there some solvent that might dissolve the goop?
 

flintknapper

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It's basically 'glued' in there. I'll be surprised if there is an O-Ring on it at all. Definitely going to have to score it or cut a couple of 'kerfs' in it and then see if I can extract it without it breaking up....but the entire outside surface of it is going have silicone on it I'm sure. Really makes my blood boil seeing that kind of shoddy workmanship.
 

flintknapper

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Sounds and looks familiar (starting post # 32). Exactly what happened to me.


 
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likely in the salvage yard
Sounds and looks familiar (starting post # 32). Exactly what happened to me.


Exactamundo- I was reading that thread last night or yesterday and when i saw your post today i was like dejavoodoodoo. Good luck my man heat and a pic tool seems appropriate.
 

suprarx7nut

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This is EXACTLY what happened with my 99 when I did the second T-belt job at 260k or whatever it was. Spent a ton of time trying to coax it out. Finally pulled out the pry bar and cracked it.

I put a shop towel in the neck, then with surgical-precision/care used a dremel and flat blade chisel to break the neck out. I was extremely careful to only hit the male neck remnants. It turned out beautifully, but took some time to carefully grind/hit it out and clean it all up.

You really have to avoid any scratches on that female piece. Gouge that inner wall with a chisel or dremel and you'll probably have a leak with the intended o-ring.

This is one job that highlights the importance of following the manual or intended methods of assembly. This is right on par with using screws in the windshield trim. It gets the customer out of the shop quickly and gets the shop paid. It also screws over the whoever owns that car in 5 years.
 

AlpineAccess

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My first instinct is to shove a paper towel down into the inlet, then use a hacksaw blade to cut through that piece and break it at the cut with a screw driver, trying to mar that inner surface as little as possible.

That's frustrating.
 
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Very likely the goose neck for upper radiator hose is pitted. If so, you can further justly replacing the water bypass joint front. Be thankful it's not the VVT. Those intake manifold must come off.
Parts list:
Water inlet, O-ring and 1282B FIPG.
Water bypass joint front and it's 2 gaskets.
Throttle body gasket.
 

flintknapper

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Figured the issue here would be breaking the 'bond' between the Inlet Housing Neck (broken off in the water bypass bore) and inside the bypass itself. That area is not the greatest for applying heat so I decided to just use mechanical means.

The easiest way I could see to 'tear' the sealant was to simply take a punch and gently drive the piece farther into the bore. That worked as planned but I still needed to decide how to extract the piece.


Success3.jpg



I remembered that I have a slide hammer with an I.D. puller attachment which I used to pull the remaining neck.


Success2.jpg


So....got the damn thing out and the bore all cleaned up without too much fuss.

Success1.jpg
 

e9999

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Good deal! Go have a nice brew tonight to celebrate yet another victory over the evil forces of Goop!
 

flintknapper

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'Fan Bracket' was kinda fun to get off. Sheeesh.......why the two bolts way down by the A/C compressor?

Was hoping my Crank Pulley/Balancer would just wiggle/slip off......but NO! Had to pull it.

Balancer1.jpg
 

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