Damnit............what a screwed up design. How to remove? (1 Viewer)

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Figured the issue here would be breaking the 'bond' between the Inlet Housing Neck (broken off in the water bypass bore) and inside the bypass itself. That area is not the greatest for applying heat so I decided to just use mechanical means.

The easiest way I could see to 'tear' the sealant was to simply take a punch and gently drive the piece farther into the bore. That worked as planned but I still needed to decide how to extract the piece.


View attachment 2495326


I remembered that I have a slide hammer with an I.D. puller attachment which I used to pull the remaining neck.


View attachment 2495327

So....got the damn thing out and the bore all cleaned up without too much fuss.

View attachment 2495328
Sweet job. Cool puller.
Success2.jpg

?
Success2c.jpg
 
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Wow. I seriously feel for you. Mine was replaced at the dealer too (PO) thank God they just used the O-ring.

But I agree that the design is really stupid. For something that needs to come off for the timing belt they really should have included a bolt to pop it off, like they have on drum brakes.

It took me FOREVER to get that piece off with just the o-ring!
 

flintknapper

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^^^^

I know your concern (pitting) but we really don't get that here. We have very soft water that over time leaves a fine almost powdery build up. It comes off easily. There are traces of Iron-Ore in our water as well and that will stain areas of the metal that are starting to react....but the neck is absolutely smooth to the touch. No issues sealing the hose.

You know me....if there were any question about it....I would replace it. But it's certainly something for all to look at.

Bypass neck1.jpg
Bypass neck2.jpg
 

flintknapper

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More fun by the minute. Just about burst a vein in my neck getting the Water Pump to come off. I knew it had several locating dowels and is supported by a couple of studs....but it still should pry away from the engine without too much trouble. Worked and worked on it for about two hours with a tack strip removal tool and a sharpened screw-driver tip.

Finally got it to come loose and what did I find? You guessed it......a damn bead of silicone all around the edge.

The metal gasket was there but someone just HAD to put that *&&#()#_*#+ Silicone on it too. As if that weren't enough.....apparently they didn't have the little O-Ring that goes on the tube that mates with the Water Pump, but no problem, 'I have SILICONE'!

If I could only go back in time and find this person.....!

Next new problem: I need to replace the front main seal (crank seal) but the cogged pulley for the timing belt on the crank will NOT come off. Any suggestions? Tried a little heat already.

1352150022.jpg
 

flintknapper

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probably a Jeep mechanic who worked on that Cruiser earlier! :)


Nearly all the work done that I have record of.....was done at a major dealership in Houston. I'd have to look back but I'm sure the timing belt job (last one) was done there.

Pretty sad to see that kind of shoddy work. No concern given to doing it 'right' just get it done with whatever you have and get it out the door. The two bolts that go through the A/C compressor that hold the fan bracket were finger tight. A nut that holds the water pump wasn't there at all.

Have no idea why the cogged pulley on the crank won't come off.
 

ranma21

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Lots of shop/tech does not follow factory repair procedures, I am working on a 2000LX now and found out that the previous workshop actually installed a damaged starter in the truck, 70% of the female connector on the starter is gone, and factory connector was broken too, so the connector is barely hanging on to the starter!! Talk about the integrity of shop/tech nowaday =(
 

Onur

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More fun by the minute. Just about burst a vein in my neck getting the Water Pump to come off. I knew it had several locating dowels and is supported by a couple of studs....but it still should pry away from the engine without too much trouble. Worked and worked on it for about two hours with a tack strip removal tool and a sharpened screw-driver tip.

Finally got it to come loose and what did I find? You guessed it......a damn bead of silicone all around the edge.

The metal gasket was there but someone just HAD to put that *&&#()#_*#+ Silicone on it too. As if that weren't enough.....apparently they didn't have the little O-Ring that goes on the tube that mates with the Water Pump, but no problem, 'I have SILICONE'!

If I could only go back in time and find this person.....!

Next new problem: I need to replace the front main seal (crank seal) but the cogged pulley for the timing belt on the crank will NOT come off. Any suggestions? Tried a little heat already.

View attachment 2496386

Do you not have a manual? All of this is spelled out.
 
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Lots of shop/tech does not follow factory repair procedures, I am working on a 2000LX now and found out that the previous workshop actually installed a damaged starter in the truck, 70% of the female connector on the starter is gone, and factory connector was broken too, so the connector is barely hanging on to the starter!! Talk about the integrity of shop/tech nowaday =(
I wish shops would realize that they could compete by advertising what they pay their techs. If your dealership’s owner’s son has a new Supra, and the techs drive an old Corolla, you can bet that the “hourly charge” isn’t going towards the “expert experience of our factory trained technicians.”
 

flintknapper

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Do you not have a manual? All of this is spelled out.

Affirmative.

FSM 99.jpg


But nowhere in the FSM does it 'spell out' or even hint at how to remove items that are essentially glued in place with 'silicone' where there should have been none. Right?

Cogged Pulley for timing belt....is apparently going to need a puller, though in several OTRAMM videos he just slides them off.

If any of these questions are somehow irritating you, please feel free to ignore. Thank You.
 
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Affirmative.

View attachment 2496477
But nowhere in the FSM does it 'spell out' or even hint at how to remove items that are essentially glued in place with 'silicone' where there should have been none. Right?

redneck/Mickey Mouse it off if you are replacing the part and don’t care about reuse. Find a bolt that fits a turnbuckle, JB weld the bolt to the part so that it is off centered and will cause it to tug one part more than the center. Install the turnbuckle and generate some constant tugging force, then grab your wife’s hairdryer and aim it at the silicone. Keep the heat at a non plastic melting setting. Go watch football.
 

Onur

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Affirmative.

View attachment 2496477

But nowhere in the FSM does it 'spell out' or even hint at how to remove items that are essentially glued in place with 'silicone' where there should have been none. Right?

Cogged Pulley for timing belt....is apparently going to need a puller, though in several OTRAMM videos he just slides them off.

If any of these questions are somehow irritating you, please feel free to ignore. Thank You.

Relax. I was talking about the timing gear.

You are on your own for FIPGed parts. :lol: Have fun.
 

e9999

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that pulley has 2 threaded holes. Likely for a puller, I imagine. If so, that suggests it is not supposed to just slide off.
 

flintknapper

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that pulley has 2 threaded holes. Likely for a puller, I imagine. If so, that suggests it is not supposed to just slide off.

^^^^

Correct. Tapped 6mm x 1.0 apparently.

I have a plethora of pullers....just not two bolts long enough to work with any of them. I will remedy that tomorrow first thing.

But I was unaware as to whether or not the pulley is lightly 'press' fit on... or could be removed by hand as I have seen done in a video. See video at 25.20 mark:


Not unlike harmonic balancers, some will come off just wiggling them....or lightly tapping with a hammer others you have to pull, so you may or may or may not need the tapped holes for them.

Looking in the FSM it shows removal of the timing pulley via the use of a puller (SST)

SST.jpg


So if 'anyone' knew this already....the most expedient and helpful thing would have been to have said so. If not....then I guess we know now. ;)

Thank You for all replies.

As for the other parts.....I think there should maybe be a law that persons be 'licensed' before using chainsaws or silicone. The misuse of either having unwanted results.
 
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OwnerCS

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'Fan Bracket' was kinda fun to get off. Sheeesh.......why the two bolts way down by the A/C compressor?

Was hoping my Crank Pulley/Balancer would just wiggle/slip off......but NO! Had to pull it.

View attachment 2495647

If you are like me, you are doing this job to last for engine to run another 200,000+ miles. Check the condition of the rubber damper that is between the pulley and the crankshaft part for cracks and signs of separation. I saw a Tacoma 5VZFE V6 the other day that is starting to separate. I've had this happen after 20+ years of service on other vehicles with this setup. Its one of those rubber items that seems to be more impacted by age and surroundings than miles.


1605532028873.png
 
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flintknapper

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If you are like me, you are doing this job to last for engine to run another 200,000+ miles. Check the condition of the rubber damper that is between the pulley and the crankshaft part for cracks and signs of separation. I saw one a Tacoma 5VZFE V6 the other day that is starting to separate. I've had this happen after 20+ years of service on other vehicles with this setup. Its one of those rubber items that seems to be more impacted by age and surroundings more than miles.


View attachment 2496923

Good tip, yes looked at it already as I was cleaning it up. Saw some superficial 'crazing' of the rubber but nothing I would describe as cracks or other signs of impending failure. Yes, definitely doing repairs/maintenance with long term ownership in mind. And you are 100% correct about rubber parts being 'age' affected.
 
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Flintknapper, I can tell that you won’t suffer fools at the moment. I fully believe it takes all types for this world to keep turning. That being said, there seems to only be about 30 or so types. I feel like I know which one you are, I half want to ask if you are the soul of my long past grandpa Earl.

when you said you have a plethora of pullers, I knew what you need to tell Santa that you want for Christmas, Serv-a-lite bolt bins SERVALITE 5-DRAWER STORAGE BINS & HARDWARE | Industrial Machinery & Equipment Auto Repair Equipment | Auctions Online | Proxibid for a hardware store. Imagine how you could catch small children in lies, “did you get this from my garage?” “No, I found it.” “Ok, I am just going to cross reference bin 32A with my weekly inventory sheet.”

But seriously, you would probably like it a lot more than your 30th leatherman style multi-tool gift pack from Costco.
 

flintknapper

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Flintknapper, I can tell that you won’t suffer fools at the moment. I fully believe it takes all types for this world to keep turning. That being said, there seems to only be about 30 or so types. I feel like I know which one you are, I half want to ask if you are the soul of my long past grandpa Earl.

when you said you have a plethora of pullers, I knew what you need to tell Santa that you want for Christmas, Serv-a-lite bolt bins SERVALITE 5-DRAWER STORAGE BINS & HARDWARE | Industrial Machinery & Equipment Auto Repair Equipment | Auctions Online | Proxibid for a hardware store. Imagine how you could catch small children in lies, “did you get this from my garage?” “No, I found it.” “Ok, I am just going to cross reference bin 32A with my weekly inventory sheet.”

But seriously, you would probably like it a lot more than your 30th leatherman style multi-tool gift pack from Costco.


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