Daily driving a 60?

[Zjohnsonua]

The only way to get economy out of a 60 is to replace the engine. 2F and 3F heads just don't flow. I still dailied mine for a few years. Good times. Then I put a Toyota v8 in and haven't looked back.

The F-series engines don't share a GM bolt pattern, but the trucks are popular enough that companies make BH adapters for reasonable prices.

 

[EJJKC]

I have access to a Toyota V8 and 5spd auto from a rusted out Tundra. Toyota V8 was an option I was looking at

My DD was a 60 for 3-4 years, but not 80 miles round trip. I couldn't imagine going 80 miles round trip everyday. That sounds a bit miserable to me, but I'm older and enjoy creature comforts more now. I'd daily drive my 100 or even back when I had my 80. The 60s are fun, but there is a huge step up on comfort from a 60 to 80 etc. Just my 2 cents. All gasser cruisers get crappy mileage of course.

I’m looking for something I can daily drive, hit a trail or 2, drive down the Pan America with little prep time should the mood strike me. Unfortunately my WK Grand Cherokee is not that vehicle. It has a bunch of electronics that as they age have become very unreliable.

I had an FJ60 years ago and remember it being a tank that was neglected and abuse and it just kept going…. Like the energizer bunny.

 

[cps432]

I have access to a Toyota V8 and 5spd auto from a rusted out Tundra. Toyota V8 was an option I was looking at



I’m looking for something I can daily drive, hit a trail or 2, drive down the Pan America with little prep time should the mood strike me. Unfortunately my WK Grand Cherokee is not that vehicle. It has a bunch of electronics that as they age have become very unreliable.

I had an FJ60 years ago and remember it being a tank that was neglected and abuse and it just kept going…. Like the energizer bunny.

If I recall there’s an issue with aligning the transmission to the pinions with the tundra. I might be mistaken. It’s been a while since I’ve looked into engine swaps.

There was a Toyota engine and transmission combo that would be awesome for a 60 but the transfer case is on the other side of the truck. Aside from cutting and flipping axles I don’t think you could pull it off. I think it’s the tundra transmission.

Someone correct me.

 

[patride71]

I have access to a Toyota V8 and 5spd auto from a rusted out Tundra. Toyota V8 was an option I was looking at



I’m looking for something I can daily drive, hit a trail or 2, drive down the Pan America with little prep time should the mood strike me. Unfortunately my WK Grand Cherokee is not that vehicle. It has a bunch of electronics that as they age have become very unreliable.

I had an FJ60 years ago and remember it being a tank that was neglected and abuse and it just kept going…. Like the energizer bunny.

The 80 or 100 would fit that bill as well. Not sure of your budget, but both of those generally are in the same or lower price range as a 60 depending on condition/miles. Neither get very good gas mileage. I do like the 100 with the V8 and having some power unlike the 60 or 80 with the straight 6. Drawback for some folks is the 100 not having a solid front axle. Not a huge deal to me unless you are just wheeling all of the time. I'd drive my 100 cross country without blinking and it has over 240K miles on it.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

If I recall there’s an issue with aligning the transmission to the pinions with the tundra. I might be mistaken. It’s been a while since I’ve looked into engine swaps.

There was a Toyota engine and transmission combo that would be awesome for a 60 but the transfer case is on the other side of the truck. Aside from cutting and flipping axles I don’t think you could pull it off. I think it’s the tundra transmission.

Someone correct me.

Use the tundra engine and controls with the 5spd auto from a 100, and the transfer case from an 80 or a 100. It all plugs up and bolts up.

The A750F in the 100 has a different output shaft. It sticks out of the transmission ~8 inches so that it can slide into the transfer case. The tundra sticks out ~4 inches, and its case slides over the output and into the transmission. Otherwise, the transmissions are the same.

 

[White Stripe]

A fj60 will never stand up to Michigan winters ever unless you galvanize the whole body and frame. The rubber stuff on the frame will accelerate rust. There is a reason there are no fj60s on the roads in Michigan or within 400 miles. They are rusting machines. A sequoia would fit the same requirements you have and hold up to the salt far better.

 

[Godwin]

I DD a FJ60 but it's one I've had for almost 20 years and I am very familiar with the mechanical state, how it drives, and it's capabilities and shortcomings. I don't recommend purchasing an old FJ60 of unknown condition and history to use as a DD, especially if you're fixated on improving fuel mileage. You can't substantially increase fuel mileage except at great expense. Best way to improve fuel mileage with a FJ60 is buy a Honda Civic.

Good advice from others is to look at 100 series or other Toyotas, maybe an 80 but even many of those are now in the category of high mileage, neglected maintenance, plus OEM parts availability is drying up.

 

[bentonrover]

Can you daily drive a 60 series? You sure can. I have from time to time with my 62. It's all how you take it in. Gas hog with low mpg that's very slow compared to modern vehicles. Even with all that I get pleasure driving it. Always a smile. A bonus when random people gives a thumbs up or spark a convo about it. Cheers

 

[EJJKC]

Can you daily drive a 60 series? You sure can. I have from time to time with my 62. It's all how you take it in. Gas hog with low mpg that's very slow compared to modern vehicles. Even with all that I get pleasure driving it. Always a smile. A bonus when random people gives a thumbs up or spark a convo about it. Cheers

That’s how I feel about my Royal Enfield. It turns heads everywhere I go. It’s also why I wanted a 60. I’m not going to do an 80 or a 100 simply because I don’t like them and I can never find them in good shape in my price range and anything newer than 96 has a body control module (or equivalent) that cause issues as they age. I want stripped down and stupid simple. Something I can fix on the side of the road in the dark in Africa with basic hand tools and a flashlight. If I can’t have that, then I might aswell buy a Cadillac cts with a 3.6l for my GF to drive and build out my Grand Cherokee…. Or find a square body 2500 Suburban.

 

[dbbowen]

I daily drive a 60. When it had the carb and the 2f it got 9mpg in city, 11 on highway in 5th gear with the h55f. I put a 5.3 in it and i get 12-13mpg city now and 14-15 if i highway cruise at 65-70 with cruise on and in overdrive. Realistically i get 10- 13 mpg because i highway cruise at 85 or so. Engine swap, nice seats, and a carplay head unit with new speakers and the 60 is a pretty nice daily driver

 

[dbbowen]

If I recall there’s an issue with aligning the transmission to the pinions with the tundra. I might be mistaken. It’s been a while since I’ve looked into engine swaps.

There was a Toyota engine and transmission combo that would be awesome for a 60 but the transfer case is on the other side of the truck. Aside from cutting and flipping axles I don’t think you could pull it off. I think it’s the tundra transmission.

Someone correct me.

If you wanted a v8 and wanted to keep it all toyota the best swap would be an early 1uz with a r151f trans from a 70 series prado. The early non vvit motors are less complicated and have much thicker rods and have way more aftermarket support.

The R151F is similar to the 5speeds in the turbo firstgen 4runners, but they have split cases on the back of them with passenger side outputs of the T case for the front and the back. You can use a r154 (supra) bellhousing to mate the 1uz to the r151f because they have the same bolt pattern. Its slightly weaker than the h55f, but its got much better gearing for street driving and the shifting feels much better.

If you plan to leave it completely stock, the VVTI UZ motors are a good option too. The 2uz has 2 bolt mains vs the 6 bolt mains of the 1uz.

There are also adapters to use a h55f behind a UZ motor.


My "if i ever win the lottery" engine swap would be a 2UR-GSE from a lexus IS-F or a RC500, with a 200 series trans and tcase sheesh

 

[HemiAlex]

Looking at an ‘85 carb’d FJ60 with a 4 on the floor. Most of the year I commute on a motorcycle so this will be a winter time car. I currently use an ‘08 Grand Cherokee that averages 17mpg for my 80 mile round trip commute.

What do I need to do (besides fuel injection) to get an ‘85 FJ60 to 17mpg? Is it even possible without a diesel swap? It’s all back roads, no freeway. If I need to travel down the freeway, I’ll use my Jeep.

I was thinking a TBI from a 4.3l v6 and some sort of OD…. But what’s the most expedient way to do that?

I have been thinking about this thread for a while. I've daily driven my 60 for 7 years with a high mileage 2F.

You can't count fuel mileage when driving one of these trucks. The facts are simple. I get 11-13 city, 15-17 highway.

Usually its 11 city and 15 highway from a well tuned high mileage 2F. If I keep it under 70 and the wind is at my back, 17 has happened a few times.

I wouldn't spend the money on TBI. Do a basic tune up back to factory specs and leave it alone. I do have a 5 speed in my truck, but depending on where you live it may not help.

 

[FJBen]

Michigan winters + older land cruiser =

That thing will get rotted in no time.

I’ve got a BJ74 here in Colorado and basically don’t drive it during ice/snow times for multiple reasons. I will sometimes but the good part is colorado has nice warm days all through the winter so you can wash that crap off quickly.
I bought a crap-box 1998 jetta TDI 5spd for winter duties. It’s 45 mpg on a bad day, and actually plods along through all but deep nasty conditions. I paid $1000 for it and insurance is $14.67 a month. I don’t care about chips, mag-chloride or even a fender bender with idiot drivers.

I daily my BJ74 all the time, just less when I know the weather will get the roads mag-chloride. My BJ74 has averaged 20mpg for 4 years with a best of 24. I have to pay diesel prices…

I get it, life’s short enjoy what you drive, but sounds like you are trying to square peg a round hole here with a 60. And in Michigan that 60s life will be quite short. You could always buy the 60 for a spring/fall rig and deal with the mpg.

 

[g-man]

I daily drive my 87 fj60 with a 2f. The fuel mileage is crap but I keep my miles down. When I commuted, I never used the 60. Only used if for local driving, 4 wheeling and a hunting truck. Be realistic. If fuel costs are high and your mileage is high, a small commuter car will pay for itself in fuel savings alone. Keep the 60 for the pure fun of it and take it to the nearby grocery store, hunting trips, camping, and 4 wheeling excursions.

Sometimes I think about putting a chevy engine in but then again your only original once. I like the idea of a modern engine with better parts availability, performance, mpg, etc. I think about hacking the drive shafts, modifying motor mounts, cutting and modifying the hump to get a shifter to fit, figuring out a new dual exhaust, adding electronics like ECMs, O2 sensors, crankshaft sensors and other nonsense that can drive you crazy, then I think building a frankenstein vehicle may or may not be so great.

 

[EJJKC]

Small commuter car isn’t going to get me through 18” unplowed snow drifts