Custom 9.5 front build question (1 Viewer)

[Tacocrazy]

Looks like you are on the right track.

However, does Branik not offer custom unit bearings in that pattern?

Also what a bout a 99-04 60, could you get the pattern to work with one of those?

I'm not asking to be argumentative or talk you into a different direction, but to learn myself.

Branik does offer 6-lug units for 99-04 but it’s not physically possibly for the 05-up due to the wheel bearing diameter. Still $850 to use the early axle, not to mention Dana 60 on 37’s is a rock anchor..lol

 

[Tacocrazy]

To my knowledge all ford 60s with open knuckels are driver drop.

If he's making a front end out of a rear end anyway swapping the diff from DS to PS should be within the same realm of work to make a custom front

It’s goin in a Diamond housing

 

[Railwelder93]

I’ve studied all those options and I have my reasons for this build, and it’s not because it’s all Toyota.

9” ford pinion centerline is very low, nearly 2” lower than the 9.5’s pseudo mid pinion design, not a good front option in my opinion...
-True Hi 9’s aren’t all that, do the research there are lots of failures in setups where there shouldn’t be...I have plenty of friends all the way to Ultra 4 for real feedback.
-Currie’s built high pinion 9” 3rd will run $3500 by itself, this is a trail rig not an race truck..lol
-Stock width 60 is too wide, this is a 1st gen Taco not a Cruiser. Sure it can be narrowed but...I’ll be lighter and plenty strong for less $$
-05-up SD axles cannot be adapted to 6x5.5 w/o wheel adapters and that’s not happening. The late 60 wheel bearing is larger than the 5.5” across the bolt circle, hell the lug studs would be in the bearing..lol
-I will be running an 80 rear so 6-lug...
-I’ll be running 37’s and 60’s are s*** w/o something near the 40” range..

That’s all for now..LOL

Have you seen this thread?

My answer to the 80 series weak link - all toyota HD front axle

In an effort to "upgrade" my rear axle I bought a FullFloat so I could eventually buy Polyperformance axle shafts as well as ARP hub studs and extra dowels. That left a SemiFloat rear 80 series axle and dif in the steel scrap pile mainly because there is ZERO resale market for it. After selling...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[baldilocks]

To my knowledge all ford 60s with open knuckels are driver drop.

If he's making a front end out of a rear end anyway swapping the diff from DS to PS should be within the same realm of work to make a custom front

WFO Concepts change a Ford high pinion 60 from driver to passenger drop for me 9 years ago for $600.

 

[matzell]

Gearworks, Spydertrax ? You still have a 30 spline axle shaft and birfs with Toyota stuff. I know RCV, but they can still break. I wheel/race with a HP 60 front on 37's and it seems to do just fine. Finished KOH a few times with it. You have to know where it is.

 

[jtwopark]

Just my $.02......call dynatrac or fusion4x4

I would lean towards fusion4x4 with the king pin axle....just a better design and serviceability

 

[wap13]

WFO Concepts change a Ford high pinion 60 from driver to passenger drop for me 9 years ago for $600.

I wonder what they charger today.

For 600 bucks itd be hard for me to attempt myself. In the grand scheme of things thats not much money to make sure your front end is straight and square.

 

[White Stripe]

If your doing a custom axle housing couldn't you use a 9.5 diff with Dana 60 knuckles and Dana 60 shafts? I think you would need to use a arb to go 35 spline.

 

[Tacocrazy]

Have you seen this thread?

My answer to the 80 series weak link - all toyota HD front axle

In an effort to "upgrade" my rear axle I bought a FullFloat so I could eventually buy Polyperformance axle shafts as well as ARP hub studs and extra dowels. That left a SemiFloat rear 80 series axle and dif in the steel scrap pile mainly because there is ZERO resale market for it. After selling...

forum.ih8mud.com

Yes sir I have

 

[Tacocrazy]

If your doing a custom axle housing couldn't you use a 9.5 diff with Dana 60 knuckles and Dana 60 shafts? I think you would need to use a arb to go 35 spline.

You could, still gonna need $800 worth of 6-lug unit bearings to match the rear.
Also have to stay 99-04 axle as you can’t do 6-lug on an 05-up SD 60. Not a big fan of the early 60 really.

 

[cody c]

I’ve studied all those options and I have my reasons for this build, and it’s not because it’s all Toyota.

9” ford pinion centerline is very low, nearly 2” lower than the 9.5’s pseudo mid pinion design, not a good front option in my opinion...
-True Hi 9’s aren’t all that, do the research there are lots of failures in setups where there shouldn’t be...I have plenty of friends all the way to Ultra 4 for real feedback.
-Currie’s built high pinion 9” 3rd will run $3500 by itself, this is a trail rig not an race truck..lol
-Stock width 60 is too wide, this is a 1st gen Taco not a Cruiser. Sure it can be narrowed but...I’ll be lighter and plenty strong for less $$
-05-up SD axles cannot be adapted to 6x5.5 w/o wheel adapters and that’s not happening. The late 60 wheel bearing is larger than the 5.5” across the bolt circle, hell the lug studs would be in the bearing..lol
-I will be running an 80 rear so 6-lug...
-I’ll be running 37’s and 60’s are s*** w/o something near the 40” range..

That’s all for now..LOL

If your thinking a SD D60, you could run 8 bolt wheels and adapters on the back. You can swap to passenger side and narrow it a bit at the same time. If you want you can upgrade rear axle later.

A junkyard axle can be found for pretty cheap, it’s heavy but robust, and stock ford brakes are massive compared to highly upgraded ($$$) 80 series brake options, plus its high or mid pinion clearance. You’d have to spend like (guessing) $1000 on adapters and components to get close to braking capability, but they’d still do no better as per larger heat mass/dissipation

For the dollar, it’s not that bad when you think it over.

 

[jcardona1]

WFO Concepts change a Ford high pinion 60 from driver to passenger drop for me 9 years ago for $600.

I wonder what they charger today.

For 600 bucks itd be hard for me to attempt myself. In the grand scheme of things thats not much money to make sure your front end is straight and square.

I actually asked them last year when I was considering doing a 60 front. They said $800-900 if I brought them a clean Superduty axle with all the brackets cut off. If they had to cut brackets and clean up the housing, about $1500-1700. When you add in the cost of a junkyard 05+ axle (and they're not very cheap these days) and any parts you may need to replace, it gets expensive quick. Getting a custom built axle from ECGS with all new parts and the correct offset seemed like a better option honestly. When I did the math it would be about $7k for the front:

 

[matzell]

I actually asked them last year when I was considering doing a 60 front. They said $800-900 if I brought them a clean Superduty axle with all the brackets cut off. If they had to cut brackets and clean up the housing, about $1500-1700. When you add in the cost of a junkyard 05+ axle (and they're not very cheap these days) and any parts you may need to replace, it gets expensive quick. Getting a custom built axle from ECGS with all new parts and the correct offset seemed like a better option honestly. When I did the math it would be about $7k for the front:

And that is Cheap. I have over 10k in mine with me doing all the work to narrow and build it with 14" willwood/Branik brakes and 300M RCV's. Not that you need all that for a trail rig.

 

[Tacocrazy]

If your thinking a SD D60, you could run 8 bolt wheels and adapters on the back. You can swap to passenger side and narrow it a bit at the same time. If you want you can upgrade rear axle later.

A junkyard axle can be found for pretty cheap, it’s heavy but robust, and stock ford brakes are massive compared to highly upgraded ($$$) 80 series brake options, plus its high or mid pinion clearance. You’d have to spend like (guessing) $1000 on adapters and components to get close to braking capability, but they’d still do no better as per larger heat mass/dissipation

For the dollar, it’s not that bad when you think it over.

I get it I really do, done hundreds of hours of research over the years. Many things about the 60 concern me for sure. I’m not building this thing and running wheel adapters or spacers of any sort, not for me. Passenger side drop is a major pain on a V-6 Tacoma, I’m staying drivers drop.
Agian this is a standard cab V-6 Tacoma, FJ 80 brakes on 37’s will be more than sufficient, especially with amthe right pad choice.
I really appreciate all the input tho, I’m not claiming to know everything about everything rather I’m pretty set with my choices for this particular truck, which I’ve wheeled 21 years
I like seeing all the feedback, you never quit learning.

 

[cody c]

Crap, I forgot you were in a taco. I keep thinking 80 series. For that little thing the 80 axle should be great with 37’s

 

[baldilocks]

I actually asked them last year when I was considering doing a 60 front. They said $800-900 if I brought them a clean Superduty axle with all the brackets cut off. If they had to cut brackets and clean up the housing, about $1500-1700. When you add in the cost of a junkyard 05+ axle (and they're not very cheap these days) and any parts you may need to replace, it gets expensive quick. Getting a custom built axle from ECGS with all new parts and the correct offset seemed like a better option honestly. When I did the math it would be about $7k for the front:

This is why I’ll probably stay right where I’m at.

 

[ajordan1975]

Dimond Axle w/ 9.5 chunk and 60 outers. This is my plan eventually....
A friend runs that on his Tacoma truggy and is very very happy w/ it.
Brian can get you take care of.

 

[cody c]

Dimond Axle w/ 9.5 chunk and 60 outers. This is my plan eventually....
A friend runs that on his Tacoma truggy and is very very happy w/ it.
Brian can get you take care of.

Why settle for 60 outers? The trunnions on the 80 are further apart and have more leverage for strength. 80 birfs are bigger and stronger, and aftermarket chromoly isn’t more (significant) cost

 

[nukegoat]

Why settle for 60 outers? The trunnions on the 80 are further apart and have more leverage for strength. 80 birfs are bigger and stronger, and aftermarket chromoly isn’t more (significant) cost

Maybe he means dana 60 outers

 

[cody c]

Huh, I guess there is D60 outers, would be strong but, then he’s cutting up Dana axle or spending big money on aftermarket inner and outer C’s and throwing away a (for SD60) higher pinion center all for the coolness of a diamond housing.

What would you do for axle shafts with D60 outers and the smaller diff shaft sizes?

I’ve broken 3 or probably 4 or more diffs. Always seems to be pinion that is the weak link, and spindle bearings up front for me. I’d want a stronger diff first but then again I’m running the 6BT