Cooling System Refresh Tips (1 Viewer)

Gretsch

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How bout just unscrewing the screw and flip it around? Do you have spares? Try it and see if it would suffice.
You mean without taking hose off. Just sort of take the clamp apart and see if I can separate it and squeeze it of/on there? Thought had crossed my mind. I tried to take one apart and it seems like it distorts to the point of not being able to provide proper even clamp pressure after putting it back on but I am not sure on that.

The right thing to do is take it apart and try again. I am not experienced enough with the 2F to know where everything will eventually line up once things are back together to be able to look and tell if this clamp will be in the way of this thing or that. I consulted pictures I took before tearing apart but someone has used the band type clamps in this location and I am using the double hoop Toyota ones for this now so its different. I may just dump those and get some band type clamps which I know I can get around the hose without taking it off. Just was trying to be as OEM as I could. You win some and you lose some I guess. It won't be too big a deal I don't think as long as that pipe can be moved in a way to get it out from under the larger one I can still use the hoop type clamps. Wrapped for today so will see how motivated I am tomorrow. Thanks for the replies everyone.
 

Gretsch

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Some shots of todays progress....

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Gretsch

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OK so got up motivated to figure this out. I took a chance and tore down nearly everything I did yesterday. I flipped the clamp around and while I improved access to the clamp bolt I only marginally improved clearance between clamp and belt.

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If I spin it counter clockwise on the hose the tightening mechanism will contact the timing cover and the bolt head will be super close to the belt almost contacting it. This was what I feared when looking at it yesterday. Using the double band clamps there just seems to be no way at this location to orient it that it does not hit something. The tightening mechanism is so large that it just does not fit right there. It either contacts the hose above it or the timing cover behind it or comes close to the belt depending on how its oriented. Really glad I test fit this before getting too far ahead. This is so stupid I cannot figure out how to orient this properly that it does not hit something. I must be an idiot.

Are you supposed to be able to use the double hoop clamps here? What am I missing? Does the clearance look acceptable between clamp and belt in this new orientation? I am thinking about taking these off and getting regular band clamps which should provide much better clearance all around. That's the type that was on here when I got into this so seems someone else discovered the same thing I have on an A/C truck. Any head check here would be appreciated. Thanks as always.
 

John McVicker

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Good try, but now I'd say you're struggling with something for little gain. Make it easy on yourself and just remove that OEM clamp and use a regular clamp from NAPA. This will give you the clearance you are seeking.

Get a GOOD clamp. Not a box from HF nor any clamp from China. Go to NAPA, they may have some cheap ones...but they will have some good ones too. A good brand to look for is named: IDEAL. At least I think that's the name.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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Pretty sure I have both of mine at those points w/ cheap worm gears and w/ the head flipped around and then positioned 180 degrees opposite yours. I don’t have a photo now and not at home but quite sure I didn’t have the tightening part below the pipe. Is there a reason your keeping them situated low?
Yeah I def have worm gear ones and mine are flipped around (at least the lower one) is so I tightened it from behind.
 
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NeverGiveUpYota

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What was on there as stock was a band w/ the funny twist shaft that sits opposite to the ones you have on right? So a vastly different type of clamp altogether that was also much more slim lined inthat area, right?
 

Gretsch

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Pretty sure I have both of mine at those points w/ cheap worm gears and w/ the head flipped around and then positioned 180 degrees opposite yours. I don’t have a photo now and not at home but quite sure I didn’t have the tightening part below the pipe. Is there a reason your keeping them situated low?
Yeah I def have worm gear ones and mine are flipped around (at least the lower one) is so I tightened it from behind.

I originally had it flipped and situated high. The mechanism runs into the larger hose above it like this and I cannot turn it enough to get the bolt head out of the way of the belt. I swung it around where the mechanism was sort of parallel to the direction of the belt to clear it like in my original photo. Then I got worried and re-did it to situate it low and got to where I am now with the belt now running in between the mechanism base and the bolt head. Trying to get this finished (I am running out of PTO to get this done)I opted to roll the dice on this and try and run it like this knowing that if I run into an issue with belt clearance I would have the worm gear type clamp as a fallback.

What was on there as stock was a band w/ the funny twist shaft that sits opposite to the ones you have on right? So a vastly different type of clamp altogether that was also much more slim lined inthat area, right?

This explains a lot actually. I am simply using the wrong clamp here. Toyota used the slim band type cotter pin clamp here and never intended for a hoop type to be used in this area. The worm gear type will fit much better and provide better clearance and would explain why that's what I pulled off of here when I started. So looks like I gambled and lost. In the spirit of trying to forge ahead I put a lot of stuff back on the truck that is in the way now. So back to the drawing board again I guess. I should be able to get a worm gear clamp on here without taking everything apart again I think. The hoop clamp on the water pump side of this hose is tucked away from everything so that one should be good. Just the oil cooler pipe end that's an issue. There should not be any harm in have one clamp type on one side and a different one on the other right? Or should I replace both of them with the worm gear type? Thought of taking this thing apart again to correct this is not that appealing I'll have to admit. Thanks for the help everyone.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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Shouldn't be a problem unless you're going to a concourse. Or it leaks! Proofs in the pudding!
Idk man, it might be too tight on one side.
Kidding.
It’s your truck Rob, you do what you want. If it’ll bug you do it the way it makes you feel best about your work. I’ve found over time I have tried to stop seeking a bunch of opinions because we are all so different and in the process of learning we figure out what is best all on our own.
 

John McVicker

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It will make absolutely no difference at all to have 2 different types of clamps. What you want to accomplish is:

A) have a hose that doesn't leak
B) have a clamp that does not interfere with any parts...moving or otherwise
C) have a clamp that you have reasonable access to for future maintaince

No need to overthink this.
 

Gretsch

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Yeah agreed. I get it. Knowing me the way I do this is gonna bug me unless I do something about it. Toyota used those cotter pin clamps there for a reason so that pretty much tells me to handle this. I just hate doing things multiple times. Good news is I am a pro at tearing the front of this truck down (and putting it back together) now. Pretty soon folks will need to start timing me like those videos of guys assembling WWII jeeps in a matter of minutes. I just wanted to make sure I was not missing some detail everyone here knows about needed to do this correct.

I am gonna try and get a band clamp around this little hose without taking everything apart again. I think I can but access gets exponentially more difficult the more stuff I put back on the truck. Should have waited on re-assembly but kinda need to get this project moving and get on to other things (the Wife Approval Factor is tanking). Worst case is I cannot get the clamp on there in which case I'll tear things apart again. At least I know what I am doing now :clap:. Having that main hose and the oil cooler hose so close together like that makes access tight. Hard to get my big hands in there at this point. Maybe the Mrs. will be inclined to help lend her smaller hands in the spirit of getting this beast and all its project bits around the garage out of her way. Thanks all for confirming what I ultimately know to be true.
 

Gretsch

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Gretsch

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So good news. My man @beno got the correct lower thermostat housing gasket out and its arriving today!! Thanks @beno. That's a huge help and will get me back on track. I might be able to sneak away from work early and get this wrapped up tonight.

I found this thread yesterday that shows folks using these double hoop clamps at the oil cooler pipe location with them being arranged both of the ways I have had mine on there so I am feeling a bit better about having this on there like I have it. Member in second post even states that the belt does not hit the clamp specifically and @beno posts a photo in this thread with the clamp on there. Point here is that others have used these clamps here without an issue so I am not alone. I have decided I am going to leave it for now, mark the clamp with some paint or crayon and check for the belt rubbing the marking off the bolt head indicating its hitting the clamp as it moves. If that happens then I can sneak a worm gear clamp in there to deal with it. But for now I am going to let it ride and see where it goes.

I’ve found over time I have tried to stop seeking a bunch of opinions because we are all so different and in the process of learning we figure out what is best all on our own.

This is right on as usual. Comes down to what you feel comfortable with. For now I am good letting it ride with the hoop clamp and dealing with the consequences. Apologies for all the back and forth on this one thing. I am lucky enough to at this point in my life be able to own one of these trucks and afford the parts required to fix it right. Trying to do the best I can to make sure I am a good steward of its care. In other words, trying really hard to not mess this up. I tend to get a little anal when it comes to stuff like this and prolly take it too far(chalk it up to my Network Engineering background and getting burned too many times for missing details). Thanks all for the help and encouragement. This group is amazing.
 

Gretsch

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Well we did it finally. After missed weekends with birthdays and holiday stuff, I finally got her put back together and started her up today. After some gentle coaxing (pleading) she finally came to life. So no leaks I can see anywhere, at least not yet and it seems that I did not blow anything up so thats a plus. The belt issue I was worried about is not one. Belt clears fine. I filled the radiator with coolant (with engine off) and then started it. It took about 4 gallons before the coolant stopped bubbling. I think this is slightly less than the capacity of the cooling system (4.35 gallons I think). I let it idle up to temp.

So she ran a bit on the warm side from what she used to do. Idling with the heat on she never got higher than just under half of the temp guage. This is higher though than she used to run so seems like something is up. Some details maybe mudders can check me on here:

1. Cooling system took just a little over 4 gallons of coolant. I think this is about right for a 60 series. I just filled the radiator with the truck off until no more coolant would enter.
2. The upper radiator hose is hot and squishy when it was idling. So thermostat working?
3. The heater is much hotter than before. So coolant seems to be circulating?
4. Temp guage never got above half and most times ran right at about 1/3. This is hotter than before so want to dial this in some and see why its running hotter. Its in the 50-60s here today so seems like it should be running cooler than this. I only idled in my driveway so maybe getting air moving into the radiator bring temps back to normal?

So another cruiser noob question here. If you fill the radiator with coolant, will there be enough pressure to force coolant up into the water pump and into the engine water jackets as you fill the radiator up, or will the radiator just fill up and it takes the water pump actually moving to force coolant into the engine water jackets? As I said it took just over 4 gallons of coolant so it seems like that's close to the right amount if the Internet is to be believed. And should the upper hose be firm or soft/squishy with the engine running? I don't recall what mine was before I got into all this. I think squishy so might be fine.

I had to drop off troubleshooting for now but thought I would see if anyone had some tips as to why its running hotter than before or things I should check to wrap this up. Does the higher temp sound just like air in the system and it needs a burp or something else? Thanks as always.
 

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