Build Chronicles of Bonnie and Clyde

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New seal new key better balancer pulley put it all back together with a tight bolt and drive it. Retorque the bolt a couple of times to make sure it's not coming loose, and have some fun. Nothing to lose at this point.

Is it correct no, has it been done before and worked Yes, does it have the potential to outlast the rest of the engine absolutely..
 
greenbeast said:
Cam needs to be repaired and possibly a machine shop can repair it.
Click to expand...
Does he think the cam needs attention or the crank? The balancer is on the crank.

Seems like you’ve already got a few projects you’re working on. If it were me and I was wanting to drive the pig and work on other projects, I’d clean up or replace the balancer, put in a new key, and drive it. If it falls off, you’re not any worse off and it might be great for a while. Maybe it’ll last until you get Bonnie back.
 
If you're wanting to do the wrong thing the right way ( a better more permanent fix) then get some loctite 640 and apply a liberal coat on the snout of your crankshaft and the inside of the pulley before you assemble.. This will help prevent the new pulley from fretting on the crankshaft.
next.henkel-adhesives.com

LOCTITE® 640

High-strength retaining compound for large diameter cylindrical components
next.henkel-adhesives.com next.henkel-adhesives.com
 
Lifelong40Fan said:
Does he think the cam needs attention or the crank? The balancer is on the crank.
Click to expand...
Sorry, crankshaft.

I would be all over this route if I didn't have a rebuilt 2F and H55 rebuilt by Georg sitting on pallets in the shop. I also have 2 newer 40 axles in barn for swap, also have the appropriate bell housing which is already powder coated. This was the original plan for the 69. When I was able to acquire Delancy's old pig I shifted gears knowing what
he put into it back in 2013.

So basically, I am going to analysis paralysis figuring a less than perfect repair on the crankshaft that @jmack has mentioned (whose opinion I do respect) and rolling the dice. Then doing a body swap after repair and hoping for the best. The body swap will require me trailering both vehicles to Tulsa to shop where I can use a lift so calculating time to do all that.

Just little insight to what options I am balancing here.
 
Quite the difference here.

IMG_4774.webp


IMG_4770.webp
 
J Mack said:
Wait for the War Eagle to give you the actual Toyota number but look at "90281-07004 Toyota"

iu
Click to expand...
This is same that Onur sent earlier. Hope to place order tonight.

I unwrapped the other 2f and I was excited to see 3 pulley on it. Can’t find right socket in shop to remove it.
 
Last edited:
J Mack said:
If you're wanting to do the wrong thing the right way ( a better more permanent fix) then get some loctite 640 and apply a liberal coat on the snout of your crankshaft and the inside of the pulley before you assemble.. This will help prevent the new pulley from fretting on the crankshaft.
next.henkel-adhesives.com

LOCTITE® 640

High-strength retaining compound for large diameter cylindrical components
next.henkel-adhesives.com next.henkel-adhesives.com
Click to expand...
You said exactly what I was going to suggest, clean it up, lock tight and re-torque.

Drive it.

👍🏻
 
My 2 cents. Do not remove the pulley from the engine Georg built. Leave it alone and put it in whatever chassis that you plan to eventually body swap onto.
Do the J Mack repair and run it until you body swap. That's your easiest road to get it back drivable until you body swap.
 
J Mack said:
So much this!!!👆👆👆
I didn't catch the part you wanted to take apart a new-rebuilt engine, I'm sure the pulley you need is out here somewhere and can be had for cheap.
Click to expand...
I have been convinced and am digging up some notes I made for replacement pulley Georg recommended when I talked to him a couple weeks ago. I can go with double pulley and delete the hydraulic PS and go with electric PS which I was considering This makes search easier. Calling local toyota dealer tomorrow and see if they will order the key for me.

Appreciate all the help from all you knowledgeable folks!
 
greenbeast said:
Close to determining what damage may have occurred with the harmonic dampener bolt coming off. Draining radiator now. Stop cock frozen and decided to go another route of draining instead of risk breaking something. Have shop cat so letting it drain into bucket slowly, don't need it splattering all over floor. I did loosen all three belts and once radiator empty I will pull it.

Not sure what to do if the keyway is jacked up...
Click to expand...
Hopeing for the best Jon!
 
greenbeast said:
Visited with Onur about the findings. Obvious pulley needs to be replaced. Onur feels like Cam needs to be repaired and possibly a machine shop can repair it.

I'm at a crossroads here. Emotion driving wanting to utilize Delancys old build. Taking emotion out of this, it seems like it would be better just to use the 2f and h55 i have here in the shop on the 69. Front disc conversion, electric PS and move on.

Lots of thinking to do, welcome anyone else's thoughts on which direction I should go?
Click to expand...
We are talking repairs to the crank, correct? Not cam...
 
J Mack said:
New seal new key better balancer pulley put it all back together with a tight bolt and drive it. Retorque the bolt a couple of times to make sure it's not coming loose, and have some fun. Nothing to lose at this point.

Is it correct no, has it been done before and worked Yes, does it have the potential to outlast the rest of the engine absolutely..
Click to expand...
I would be inclined to go this route.
As long as those threads on the end of the crank are okay and you can torque that new pulley and key back on there - let 'er rip tater chip!
 
Lifelong40Fan said:
Does he think the cam needs attention or the crank? The balancer is on the crank.

Seems like you’ve already got a few projects you’re working on. If it were me and I was wanting to drive the pig and work on other projects, I’d clean up or replace the balancer, put in a new key, and drive it. If it falls off, you’re not any worse off and it might be great for a while. Maybe it’ll last until you get Bonnie back.
Click to expand...
This ^^^

happy-new.gif
 
J Mack said:
If you're wanting to do the wrong thing the right way ( a better more permanent fix) then get some loctite 640 and apply a liberal coat on the snout of your crankshaft and the inside of the pulley before you assemble.. This will help prevent the new pulley from fretting on the crankshaft.
next.henkel-adhesives.com

LOCTITE® 640

High-strength retaining compound for large diameter cylindrical components
next.henkel-adhesives.com next.henkel-adhesives.com
Click to expand...
IDK enough about the 640, is that going to make getting the pulley off a chore down the road?
 
greenbeast said:
Sorry, crankshaft.

I would be all over this route if I didn't have a rebuilt 2F and H55 rebuilt by Georg sitting on pallets in the shop. I also have 2 newer 40 axles in barn for swap, also have the appropriate bell housing which is already powder coated. This was the original plan for the 69. When I was able to acquire Delancy's old pig I shifted gears knowing what
he put into it back in 2013.

So basically, I am going to analysis paralysis figuring a less than perfect repair on the crankshaft that @jmack has mentioned (whose opinion I do respect) and rolling the dice. Then doing a body swap after repair and hoping for the best. The body swap will require me trailering both vehicles to Tulsa to shop where I can use a lift so calculating time to do all that.

Just little insight to what options I am balancing here.
Click to expand...
Always nice to have options!
 
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