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rusty_tlc said:
How long until the ECU learns the engine? I heard you should idle a 2UZ-FE for 15 minutes after the ECU has had memory cleared for it to re-learn the engine, no idea on a Vortec.
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I had read about this too, and it takes actual DRIVE time AFAIK!
DAMN!:steer:
 
chicago said:
Tach, fuel, water and I think the trans.
Volt and oil seem to be good!

Fxxx YEAH!!!!
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The tach and speedo need to be calibrated I have no idea where the trim pots are set on those two. Water and trans should be pretty easy to chase down. Fuel might be a problem only because the sending unit is hard to get to.
 
Nice job sounds great
 
rusty_tlc said:
The tach and speedo need to be calibrated I have no idea where the trim pots are set on those two. Water and trans should be pretty easy to chase down. Fuel might be a problem only because the sending unit is hard to get to.
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I had the wires off the back of the tank. I only put about 4 gal in too, so that may have something to do with it?
 
jefishing said:
Nice job sounds great
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Thanks man!
Im SOOOOO STOKED!
The exhaust is MUCH quieter than I thought. I was worried that the glass pack would be TOO LOUD, but Im pleasantly surprised that its NOT!
 
Nice.
 
chicago said:
MATTI IS RUNNING!!!!!!!:bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2:

018 - YouTube

I was in such SHOCK when my wife shot the vid, I could hardly speak!!!
It was as Troy said. The way Rusty and I wired it initially, was somehow not right...Im not sure why either.
But we had a bunch of un used wires off the harness, and I tested the COIL wire. The light was off till switched on and stayed ON when cranking. So I just stripped the wire a bit plugged it into the weather pack. I cranked her (not expecting ANYTHING to happen) and she fired RIGHT UP!
Shes running seemingly a little rough. RPM is around 780 vie the OBD scanner I have. Most of the gauges are NOT working at this point.
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sounds good to me, it takes a while for the computer to relearn the adaptive memory so the idle will pick up and runs smoother after it runs a while,,,, good job
:bounce:
 
Yes, the motor should become stronger as you drive it more. It reads the o2 sensor during different engine loads and adjusts the timing and fueling accordingly. If the superficial gauges are the only thing not working it isn't a big deal as long as the ecu is getting the actual info from the sensors. If the ecu is not receiving the correct info it may put itself in a "limp mode" or open loop circuit until the sensors/gauges are functioning properly. For example you may get " surges" at idle if the tach is not working correctly... Or it may run rich or lean or back and forth if the water gauge isn't working.

All that aside... Congrats on the start up!!!
 
brokenparts said:
Yes, the motor should become stronger as you drive it more. It reads the o2 sensor during different engine loads and adjusts the timing and fueling accordingly. If the superficial gauges are the only thing not working it isn't a big deal as long as the ecu is getting the actual info from the sensors. If the ecu is not receiving the correct info it may put itself in a "limp mode" or open loop circuit until the sensors/gauges are functioning properly. For example you may get " surges" at idle if the tach is not working correctly... Or it may run rich or lean or back and forth if the water gauge isn't working.

All that aside... Congrats on the start up!!!
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Most of the dash gauges are separate from the ECU harness. The tach and speedo use outputs from the ECU which, as I mentioned, still need to be calibrated.
 
chicago said:
MATTI IS RUNNING!!!!!!!:bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2:
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YEEEHAAAAW!!!!

I've been keeping up with your progress from the beginning. Even though I'm JUST a FEW miles away I'm feeling ecstatic for you.

What an experience for you!!!

Now down to chasing the little nit picky gremlins.

Don
 
brokenparts said:
nice! Generally speaking, ecu's start "learning" at about 160 degrees operating temperature.
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Chicago set it up that way, I just wired up what he had in place.
 
chicago said:
MATTI IS RUNNING!!!!!!!:bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2:

018 - YouTube

I was in such SHOCK when my wife shot the vid, I could hardly speak!!!
It was as Troy said. The way Rusty and I wired it initially, was somehow not right...Im not sure why either.
But we had a bunch of un used wires off the harness, and I tested the COIL wire. The light was off till switched on and stayed ON when cranking. So I just stripped the wire a bit plugged it into the weather pack. I cranked her (not expecting ANYTHING to happen) and she fired RIGHT UP!
Shes running seemingly a little rough. RPM is around 780 vie the OBD scanner I have. Most of the gauges are NOT working at this point.
Click to expand...

Great stuff Keith.:cheers:

You guys had it wired so that the power to the ecu was disconected while engaging the starter motor.
 
waiting for time said:
Great stuff Keith.:cheers:

You guys had it wired so that the power to the ecu was disconected while engaging the starter motor.
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According to what he told me on the phone tonight the wire we used stayed hot while the key was in the cranking position. It's a mystery at this point.
 
brokenparts said:
Another thing to watch for is drop in voltage during cranking.
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That's what I was thinking, the wire we picked may not be able to supply enough current. I'm also still stumped as to why the engine cranked and ran then stopped and wouldn't start.
 
But there was 12v at the coil packs during cranking...but it wouldn't fire nor throw a spark at the plug.
 
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