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Fast Eddy said:
I'm not sure, but I fried all my blinker and parking light bulbs and my oil pressure gauge by welding on the frame. and that was with the key off.

I would think the OBD scanner would have given you an error rather than "no codes" if the computer was fried. :confused:
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That is why I think maybe it's an empty ECU?
I've heard of that happening.....
 
swilson said:
I know that feeling, lol. I still get it every now & then.
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Yours came out awesome!
You should know what I'm talking about!!
 
I called Howell this am and talked to Troy over there. Explained this situation. He asked about the check engine light.... I told him when I key ON, the light comes on, and when cranking, the light goes out. He said then THAT is the problem. When cranking the power is shutting down to the ECU. The CEL should stay on even during cranking.
Doesn't really explain why it would start initially, but...

That is where I'll start.
 
chicago said:
... when cranking, the light goes out. He said then THAT is the problem. When cranking the power is shutting down to the ECU. The CEL should stay on even during cranking.
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Trade in your fancy battery for the two-year-old Wallymart special out of your wife's car. It'll probably fire right up.
 
chicago said:
When cranking the power is shutting down to the ECU. The CEL should stay on even during cranking.
Doesn't really explain why it would start initially, but...
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On more modern cars there are 2 positive switched wires comming from the ignition switch, one holds power during cranking and the other is switched off during to preserve as much for cranking as possible. I had the same problem a few times when adding alarm systems to cars. They also need to stay hot while cranking.:o
Your ignition switch is not original I presume because I believe they have only one hot switched, and an acc, wire.
 
waiting for time said:
On more modern cars there are 2 positive switched wires comming from the ignition switch, one holds power during cranking and the other is switched off during to preserve as much for cranking as possible. I had the same problem a few times when adding alarm systems to cars. They also need to stay hot while cranking.:o
Your ignition switch is not original I presume because I believe they have only one hot switched, and an acc, wire.
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No. I used a GM column. Rustydan wired that up, so I'll have to get w/ him on it to figure it out. We left off a bundle of wires for future use. Hopefully one of those will work for this.
 
Just check for hot switched connection at the back of the ignition switch that stay's hot during start. Probably just pluging on a different tab, 10 secs and it could run.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
brokenparts said:
I've heard of stored security features in the ECU can defeat ignition spark.... just another thought.[/QUOT


Thank man.
I get where you're going with that. I'm not getting my hopes up. Any way it goes, Howell supplied the ecu and re flash too, so if I need to ship it back, there are worse things that could happen.
I'll hit the wire suggestion today though. I really hope that's it.
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MATTI IS RUNNING!!!!!!!:bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2:

018 - YouTube

I was in such SHOCK when my wife shot the vid, I could hardly speak!!!
It was as Troy said. The way Rusty and I wired it initially, was somehow not right...Im not sure why either.
But we had a bunch of un used wires off the harness, and I tested the COIL wire. The light was off till switched on and stayed ON when cranking. So I just stripped the wire a bit plugged it into the weather pack. I cranked her (not expecting ANYTHING to happen) and she fired RIGHT UP!
Shes running seemingly a little rough. RPM is around 780 vie the OBD scanner I have. Most of the gauges are NOT working at this point.
 
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Better one of the exhaust.
Not too loud I was happy to find.

019 - YouTube
 
brokenparts said:
Woohoo...might take a bit till the computer "learns" the new tune. Which gauges are not working properly?
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Tach, fuel, water and I think the trans.
Volt and oil seem to be good!

Fxxx YEAH!!!!
 
brokenparts said:
Woohoo...might take a bit till the computer "learns" the new tune. Which gauges are not working properly?
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How long until the ECU learns the engine? I heard you should idle a 2UZ-FE for 15 minutes after the ECU has had memory cleared for it to re-learn the engine, no idea on a Vortec.
 
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